pt425 not starting, lights won't turn on either, thinking it's electrical

[Fuddyduddy1952]

A wiring diagram is a road map which is what you need otherwise it's a stab in the dark. The lights would be the easiest to troubleshoot which may fix the no start problem. Just guessing I'd be looking for a bad ground. Headlights can be getting power but won't work without a ground.

 

[ponytug]

If your lights aren't turning on, I would check the electrical panel on the dash to make sure you are getting +12V there, and the double check that there is +12V at the light switch. If you are, even when you turn on the switch, I would double check both ends of the battery cables. Grounds often have a way of loosening up and corroding, and many battery cables aren't well made. I replaced both my PT positive and negative battery cables shortly after buying my PT; there was nothing wrong with the originals, I just wanted a heavier gauge for better starts, as the Deutz starter is known for needing every last fraction of a volt to work well. I also ran ground lines to the dash, and tub, all tied to the same point with the battery ground. Chasing electrical gremlins is not my favorite way to spend my time.

Have you check the main fuses?

Since you appear to have a good battery, I would focus on getting the lights running first as they are much easier to troubleshoot compared to a starter.

All the best, Peter

 

[BobRip]

I did have the fuse holder at the starter fail on my 422.

 

[MossRoad]

Battery terminals cleaned today. Battery checked out fine at the place I purchased it from(2 years old).
Even with a brand new heavy duty jumpncarry diesel rated lead acid jump starter I am getting nothing, no lights, and just a click at the starter.


View attachment 783975
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Not a 13V on the entire chart... just sayin.

 

[NC1]

Starting to think it is the ignition switch. I continuity checked it and it checked out fine but when I reinstalled it, in the on position, I checked the voltage across going to each terminal and I'm getting a fraction of a volt. Full 12.5v coming into the switch from the battery.

Ordered one from amazon, should be here tomorrow.
Pretty sure this is the correct part Briggs 692318 same as Stens 430-950 made by Indak

I'll let you know how it goes, thanks for all of the help!

 

[AVIVIII]

I had something similar happen recently. No start, no lights, no electrical. Good battery, even tried the jump box.
I found a broken connection in the electrical. In the attached pic, the brightest red wire was broken clean off at the solenoid post. I replaced the wire and all the problems were solved. I found many of the other connections to be lose and tightened them all.

 

[NC1]

Quick update:
It was not the ignition switch, it ended up being the positive battery cable, it had corroded at the post connection. It did not look bad enough to cause an issue, but the corrosion had gone under the cable jacket.

More details regarding the symptoms in case anyone in the future runs across something similar-
Voltage at the starter was 12.5v until I turned the key to the "run" position, then it dropped to 6.5v, then if I turned the light switch ON the voltage dropped to 0.6v. Originally I was getting the same drop in voltage at the ignition switch, and even though I checked the switch for continuity, the voltage drop at the switch made me think it could still be the switch, tried a new switch and got the same readings. I took every panel off and looked for damaged wires and wire brushed every connection I could find. It seemed odd that the positive post on the starter would have a voltage drop under load since it comes off the battery and I new the battery was good so I connected the positive from the jump starter directly to the starter, turned the key and she fired right up. After that I examined the cable closer and it was corroded under the jacket. The post connector was an aftermarket clamp on style due to the fact that the original corroded--hindsight I should have looked there first since it had been an issue a couple years ago. Instead of cutting off the bad portion of the cable and installing a new end, I ordered a 2 gauge positive cable of the same length.

Anybody know what would cause my positive cable to corrode so aggressively? After replacing the end, 2-3 years ago, I started using the NOCO cleaner and preventative, but that did not seem to help.

Thanks for all of the helpful responses!

 

[cqaigy2]

Quick update:
It was not the ignition switch, it ended up being the positive battery cable, it had corroded at the post connection. It did not look bad enough to cause an issue, but the corrosion had gone under the cable jacket.

More details regarding the symptoms in case anyone in the future runs across something similar-
Voltage at the starter was 12.5v until I turned the key to the "run" position, then it dropped to 6.5v, then if I turned the light switch ON the voltage dropped to 0.6v. Originally I was getting the same drop in voltage at the ignition switch, and even though I checked the switch for continuity, the voltage drop at the switch made me think it could still be the switch, tried a new switch and got the same readings. I took every panel off and looked for damaged wires and wire brushed every connection I could find. It seemed odd that the positive post on the starter would have a voltage drop under load since it comes off the battery and I new the battery was good so I connected the positive from the jump starter directly to the starter, turned the key and she fired right up. After that I examined the cable closer and it was corroded under the jacket. The post connector was an aftermarket clamp on style due to the fact that the original corroded--hindsight I should have looked there first since it had been an issue a couple years ago. Instead of cutting off the bad portion of the cable and installing a new end, I ordered a 2 gauge positive cable of the same length.

Anybody know what would cause my positive cable to corrode so aggressively? After replacing the end, 2-3 years ago, I started using the NOCO cleaner and preventative, but that did not seem to help.

Thanks for all of the helpful responses!

I've seen in the past where repairing a cable, the "bad" portion was not removed because it looked fine, but in reality still bad and continued corroding. I'm predicting your preventative will have better results on a new cable.

 

[agjones]

I've had a lot of terminal cables go bad in the last few years and am unsurprised by your find. I've started resealing the terminations with heat shrink and the problem seems to be better....keep the moisture out.

 

[MossRoad]

Glad you got it sorted out. As for why your positive cable is corroding... couple scenarios are possible, but usually is a result of overcharging causing gas to escape from battery and reacting with the metal.

My kid had a + terminal on her Subaru that kept corroding. She kept cleaning it and it kept coming back. She had it serviced and they replaced the + cable end. And it corroded again within weeks. I pulled the cable off, and found the bolts were not tight at all. So there was not a good connection made after they replaced the cable end. I pulled it all apart, cleaned with a brush, made it all nice and shiny, and reattached and torqued everything down properly. Then I sprayed it with terminal spray to kind of seal it up. That was around Christmas. She comes home tonight, so I'll see if it worked.