PT422 will not stay in float

[BobRip]

I was aerating the yard today and found that I had to hold the lever in float most of the time. If I did not it would jump out of float on a small bump. This is not new, but I think it is about time we fixed it.
Has anyone else had this problem? I believe that I had seen this issue on here before. Of course there could just be something wrong with my control valve, but I understand it is right expensive to replace or rebuild.

What has anyone done about it? I have considered a bunjee cord, but it seems kind of crude. I thought about using a piece of wood to block it into float, but then it could not be released easily. I am interested in anyone's thoughts on this.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or comments.

 

[MossRoad]

I think you should look under the joystick where the linkage attaches to the valve and see if anything is lose or missing or out of place.

Can you feel the detent when you push past the down position into the float position? Does it feel like it is going in all the way and just not holding?

 

[DHS]

Bob,

Several postings when you search "Float Control". "Search Titles Only"

Dale

 

[BobRip]

I think you should look under the joystick where the linkage attaches to the valve and see if anything is lose or missing or out of place.

Can you feel the detent when you push past the down position into the float position? Does it feel like it is going in all the way and just not holding?

I will take a look at the linkage, but I thought the arm was bolted directly to the valve.
You can feel it go into the detent, but it jumps out very easily. A small bump will do it.

 

[BobRip]

I looked at the linkage and could not see any problem. I then machined a paw out of wood to keep it locked in place. It took a while to make this, but I think it is a good first try. It's really primitive. Please see what you can suggest to improve. It was hard to measure the exact dimension of the wood. Other people seem to have the same problem.

 

[toy]

I looked at the linkage and could not see any problem. I then machined a paw out of wood to keep it locked in place. It took a while to make this, but I think it is a good first try. It's really primitive. Please see what you can suggest to improve. It was hard to measure the exact dimension of the wood. Other people seem to have the same problem.

I have not looked at the valve chest on the pt yet as I haven't had any trouble with it yet and I don't fix things if it han't broke, but I have seen other valve chests that had a float on it and to describe how I beleive it works the spool that slides back and forward as you work the control lever has a wedge shaped slot cut in it and the valve body has a cap on it . when the lever is in float the indent on the spool is lined up under the cap and there is a pin under that cap that the end is wedge shaped when the indent on the spool gets lined up with the pin the pin droops into the indent to hold it in that position that pin is spring loaded . If the spring is broke it will not work properly or if there is not enough tension on the spring it will make it easy to drop out of float. Another thing there could be some trash built up on the indent and not allowing it to drop in place as it should. That is how the ones that I have seen work, but if it were me I would call pt and ask them if there is any thing that you could do to stop it from dropping out of float so easily, or atleast find out how it works and then when they tell you what you can do to fix the problem and then you can enlighten the rest of us. As far as wedging the lever in I'm not too fond of that idea for safety reasons. Others might dissagree and that is ok just my opinion.

 

[BobRip]

I have not looked at the valve chest on the pt yet as I haven't had any trouble with it yet and I don't fix things if it han't broke, but I have seen other valve chests that had a float on it and to describe how I beleive it works the spool that slides back and forward as you work the control lever has a wedge shaped slot cut in it and the valve body has a cap on it . when the lever is in float the indent on the spool is lined up under the cap and there is a pin under that cap that the end is wedge shaped when the indent on the spool gets lined up with the pin the pin droops into the indent to hold it in that position that pin is spring loaded . If the spring is broke it will not work properly or if there is not enough tension on the spring it will make it easy to drop out of float. Another thing there could be some trash built up on the indent and not allowing it to drop in place as it should. That is how the ones that I have seen work, but if it were me I would call pt and ask them if there is any thing that you could do to stop it from dropping out of float so easily, or atleast find out how it works and then when they tell you what you can do to fix the problem and then you can enlighten the rest of us. As far as wedging the lever in I'm not too fond of that idea for safety reasons. Others might dissagree and that is ok just my opinion.

I to considered safety issues, but could not think of any. What exactly were your concerns?
PT does have a fix for this (it's in another post). I will give them a call and see about getting it.

 

[BobRip]

As far as wedging the lever in I'm not too fond of that idea for safety reasons. Others might dissagree and that is ok just my opinion.

I to considered safety issues, but could not think of any. What exactly were your concerns?
PT does have a fix for this (it's in another post). I will give them a call and see about getting it.

 

[toy]

I to considered safety issues, but could not think of any. What exactly were your concerns?
PT does have a fix for this (it's in another post). I will give them a call and see about getting it.

I would be concerned about having it jammed into float while mowing [or whatever job you had to do ] on a hill going around the slope and the wedge vibrates loose just enough for it to drop out of float but not enough for it to come out of the down pressure it might start lifting the front of the machine if you were in a tight place by the time you get the wedge out it would have enough time to bow the machine as far as the stroke on the lift arm jacks would go and that on a slope might cause a tiping problem but then again it might not but any time a machine makes an unintended move the danger risk raises, that is just my thoughts others might not feel that way and that is ok too.

 

[Beechwood]

Bob;
I'm not a hydraulic expert by any means but when I installed a new 3 spool valve for my minihoe project I learned a few basics. At the bottom of your float spool there is a longer cap housing where the spool bottoms out while in float. On the side of that cap housing there is a 5/16" or 1/4" hex screw. At the end of that screw there is a steel ball bearing and spring that creates a detent to hold the spool in float. you might want to check that for wear. Do not have engine running to check this.Jiggle your joy stick to releive any remaining pressure. remove the connection at the top of the float spool. Remove the 2 screws at the bottom of the valve holding the float housing cap in place. You can now slide the float spool out from the bottom. Once you remove that housing and spool still attached set it on a clean work area. Now remove the hex screw on the side of the housing and inspect the ball bearing,and spring for wear. There are also O Rings inside the valve body that might be worn. I hope this Info. helps. Reinstall in reverse order.

Beechwood

 

[BobRip]

I would be concerned about having it jammed into float while mowing [or whatever job you had to do ] on a hill going around the slope and the wedge vibrates loose just enough for it to drop out of float but not enough for it to come out of the down pressure it might start lifting the front of the machine if you were in a tight place by the time you get the wedge out it would have enough time to bow the machine as far as the stroke on the lift arm jacks would go and that on a slope might cause a tiping problem but then again it might not but any time a machine makes an unintended move the danger risk raises, that is just my thoughts others might not feel that way and that is ok too.

Thanks for the input. I will find another way.

 

[Beechwood]

Bob ;
These pictures show the longer cap housings at the bottom of the valve. You can see the hex head screws on the side of the housings. The one to the far right is the OEM float spool . I added the second float spool for special applications like allowing my snow blade to float in the tilt postion.
Your joystick uses a swivel adaptor plate that attaches to the top of the spools.

 

[BobRip]

I had another idea to correct this jumping out of float. It involves a bungee cord and piece of wood. I have not driven around with this since it's raining, but it seems to work pretty well in the shop. It also can be left in place when not using it. See attached pictures.

The block is made of a 1/5 by 2 inch piece.

 

[johara1]

the handle is too long and too heavy for the detent to hold it. the 180 uses two short levers,the long ones on the rest are to make them easer to control.but to get something you have to give up something.......jim

 

[BobRip]

the handle is too long and too heavy for the detent to hold it. the 180 uses two short levers,the long ones on the rest are to make them easer to control.but to get something you have to give up something.......jim

Good point. PT has an upgrade for this, but it was around $60. My solution was cheaper.

 

[BobRip]

I had another idea to correct this jumping out of float. It involves a bungee cord and piece of wood. I have not driven around with this since it's raining, but it seems to work pretty well in the shop. It also can be left in place when not using it. See attached pictures.

The block is made of a 1/5 by 2 inch piece.

I have been using this modification since April 2007 and it has worked very well. When not being used the block can get in the way a little bit. Today I made a simple change to correct this. I took the end of the block with the hole in it (not the slotted end) and took it off of the control lever. Then I ran the bungee cord through this hole. It was necessary to trim the bungee cord to get it through the hole. Of course I could have enlarged the hole. I tied a wire through the bungee cord and pulled it through the hole. The act of pulling stretched the cord and thinned it out so it went through the hole easier. I can store the block in front of the pedestal when not needed. I have attached two pictures.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Bob, the thing is looking like Franken-tractor. What is the 12volt supply supplying?

Carl

 

[BobRip]

Bob, the thing is looking like Franken-tractor. What is the 12volt supply supplying?

Carl

It runs up to a 4 switch panel. The panel controls the headlights (one for each side), the backup light, and the flashing light on the back on the ROP. I have moved the headlights to under the ROP. This works much better if you have the bucket on as you can see over the bucket.

 

[J_J]

It runs up to a 4 switch panel. The panel controls the headlights (one for each side), the backup light, and the flashing light on the back on the ROP. I have moved the headlights to under the ROP. This works much better if you have the bucket on as you can see over the bucket.

Bob, I have to ask, did you ever try and fix the detent/float part of the valve?

 

[BobRip]

Bob, I have to ask, did you ever try and fix the detent/float part of the valve?

No. PT has a fix, but I was just being too cheap to pay $60. I suspect as has been mentioned that the arm is too long for the existing detent and a bump can knock it out of detent from the long moment arm of the arm. (Is that clear? big weight on long stick = big force during jaring of the machine). I guess that I was also concerned that the PT fix would not work. Has anyone tried it?