PT 422 oil filter cross reference for Robin engine

[MuncyBob]

It's almost time for my 1st oil change. Has anybody determined what the cross reference filter # would be for the oil filer...preferably to a Purolator? I guess I could always call Jack at Robin but wanted to also see if it's highly recommended to change to synthetic oil at this time? I understand that the oil would not have to be changed as often but wouldn't I still have to change the filer just as often? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[FOURTEEN]

My plan is to run my PT-425 on Dino oil for 100 hours to break in the engine and loosen everything up for best performance, then start using Amsoil synthetic, and the highly rated Amsoil oil filters, to preserve that top performance for as long as possible!! I will NOT extend the drain interval! The savings are just not worth it. "Oil is cheaper than repairs!!" After paying thousands of dollars for a new tractor, I wouldn't then abuse it to save a few dollars on oil!!

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[MuncyBob]

How long have you been using Amsoil?? I've read both pro & con on this oil. With my vehicles I always run 'em till they die(ie; rust out) and have never used synthetic oil...but have ALWAYS changed oil at 3k miles(even in freezing cold temps) and have never had any major engine problems...but syn oil makes sense from what I've read/heard....surprised that the 100 hours mark was when you changed over...thought it might be sooner than that?

 

[FOURTEEN]

I had used Syntec 5W-50 in all my engines ever since it came on the market. Then, last year, the stores around here stopped selling the 5W-50 so I went looking for a new product. I was impressed with the info I found on Amsoil and have since converted all my applications (Motor Oil, Hydraulic Fluid, Grease, & 2 Cycle Oil), to Amsoil! Using Amsoil 0W-30 is more energy efficient, but allows less wear than Syntec 5W-50! I still change oil and filter at 3,000 miles.

Compared to a car, a small air cooled engine, especially in lawn and garden equipment, works extremely hard in hot dusty conditions, and deserves the best oil I can buy!

I want the engine to get to maximum performance before I lock it in. A new tight engine will run hotter with less power than one that has had a chance to fully break in and loosen up! Most newer cars run best from 15,000 to 25,000 miles. My aim is to maintain that peak performance for as long as possible by switching to Amsoil at 20,000! On the PT-425 I estimate that that point would be 100 hours. (I was told that with the new GMC 6.6 Diesel, it should be run for 100,000 miles, then converted to Amsoil!!)

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[Schultz]

Purilator has a cross reference program on their site, did you try that? Otherwise you can find out if your flter has a bypass valve in it, what psi it is and find an equvalent that way. I like to use an oversized pure 1 filter. I've found it actually keeps the oil cleaner looking 3 times longer than my stock Onan filter did. I use the same filter that fits a 3-3.8L Ford V6 on my 18hp Onan.

 

[MuncyBob]

This is just an FYI for anybody that has the Robin EH65 engine installed in the PT422......a call to Jack at Robin yielded the response of..."you must install a Robin filter" and he gave me the tele# for Solomon Brothers(800-222-3636) to order the filter....they did not have one in stock(part#2486580100) so I was referred to a local engine shop that may.....the guy at the shop did not have it in stock either but he took the time to try and cross reference it for me...he came up with Hastings#LF410.....I'm partial to Purolator filters so I went to their site and found #L14476. I think that filter is the "premium" filter. This link will take you to the applications page where you can find the automobiles this filter fits in case you want to go to your local car parts store and get the "regular" filter http://www.pureoil.com/ProductFinder.aspx?action=WUG I'm happy with the premium filter(nothings too good for Kermit...that's the name the PT has in our family)...now onto my first oil change...looks like a bit of a challenge based on where the 2 drain plugs are....I'm thinking this will be "let's see how big a mess I can make" time! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[MuncyBob]

Just back from the store...it seems the premium filters go by the same part# but with a "P" prefix....for PREMIUM LOL! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Read some good things about WIX and AMSOIL filters too so maybe next time I'll search out these and give them a spin on. Since I noticed last night at the end of mowing that I was over 20 hrs I just went with what was quickly available to me here.

 

[tlb]

Fourteen,
Could you provide us with the specifics about which Amsoil products you use? I looked at their website and cannot find, for example, 10w30 oil.
Thanks,
-Sundown

 

[Schultz]

I've pore size tested the WIX, Purilator, Amsoil, and many others. The Wix was roughly equivalent to the Purilator Premium, but the Purilator had almost twice the filtration area for the same cross referenced filter. The Amsoil had a little tighter pore size but had a little less filtration area for the same crossed filter.

Here is a link to the chart that I came up with on the different brands of filters.
Oil testing spreadsheet

Here is the homepage
Oil filter study

 

[DHS]

I receive good service from Jacks Small engine and I order my Robin parts from them. They charge $6.39 for the Robin oil filter. They have ignition parts, gaskets, oil plugs, about everything you need. Prices seem reasonable to me.

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/robin63_M.cfm

DHS

 

[pairodime]

I hit upon the same purolator part in a similar fashion. Went to the local Robin dealer for a filter and they didn't have it in. They crossed it to a Stens model, which I had to buy since there was no other choice. Right on the filter it says it replaces 4 different models, one of which is Robin par 26165902A0. That filter number crossed on the Purlator web site to the same you found L14476.

I wonder why Robins changed the part number /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Schultz]

Here are the specs for the filter you reference:

L14476
Just click on the specifications tab.

In my opinion the Pure one is worth the couple extra bucks, the pure one is PL14476


You may also be able to fit this larger filter in there?? It has all the same specs except size and the bypass valve is set two psi lower, but it's twice the size so you may not ever bypass the filter except on cold startup, which would happen on any filter.

PL20195 (FL-400S)
Again click on the specifications tab

 

[FOURTEEN]

"" cannot find 10w30 oil ""

Amsoil makes two 10W-30 oils: www.amsoil.com/products/xlt.htm and www.amsoil.com/products/atm.html .
However, I prefer AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil www.amsoil.com/products/tso.html which is "Recommended for use in all vehicles requiring 5W-20, 5W-30 or 10W-30 motor oils.", and use it in all my engines. Amsoil 10W-30 is technically compared to other leading oils at www.syntheticwarehouse.com/Amsoil%20compared.htm .

Don't get hung up on viscosity! The first # is what the oil acts like when very cold, while the second # is what the oil acts like when very hot! In extreme cold 0 will crank easier and lubricate quicker than 10. In extreme heat 30 is 30! The Four-Ball Wear Test is the best measure of how an oil will protect!! The High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity predicts performance in a hot hard working air cooled engine! Does any engine work hotter or harder than a lawnmower??


"" specifics about which Amsoil products you use? ""

Glad to! My original intent was to find a motor oil for my car, SUV, tractors, ATVs, lawnmowers, chipper, and generator which would replace the Syntec 5W-50 which I had been using for many years. My first choice was Series 2000 Synthetic 20W-50 Racing Oil www.amsoil.com/products/tro.html , but then determined that the AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 gave very close to what the 20W-50 did in reducing wear but offered more power with increased fuel economy! (If an engine produces more power on less fuel, then it is producing less unwanted heat, which is the enemy of any, particularly air cooled, engine!)

Oil Filters: Amsoil SuperDuty

Hydraulics: Synthetic Tractor Hydraulic / Transmission Oil www.amsoil.com/products/ath.html

Grease: Series 2000 Synthetic Racing Grease www.amsoil.com/products/grg.html

Chainsaw: DOMINATOR Synthetic 2-Cycle Racing Oil www.amsoil.com/products/tdr.htm

I'm looking forward to trying Supershift Racing Transmission Fluid www.amsoil.com/products/art.html in my automatic transmissions!!


PS: These products are not cheap, but the increased performance and service life make them well worthwhile to me!!
After spending $15,000 for my PT-425, the cost of a couple quarts of oil and a few squirts of grease is insignificant!!!!


PPS: I am NOT an Amsoil dealer, but I do know a good one!!

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[MuncyBob]

I decided to use the PL filter...used 10-30 Castrol dino oil...will probably switch to synthetic after some more break in hours. Robin manual says engine has 2 drain plugs...looks as though PT plugged the one outlet, the other has an elbow coming out and capped by a 3/8 brass cap/plug....(I jacked up the opposite side slightly to try and get as much oil out as possible)located directly above a hole in the lower body so makes for fairly easy access to drain...now the filer is not so convenient.....fortunately the filer was only "hand tight" and fairly easy to remove but I made a mess from the initial oil leakage...will be making a trip to the Dollar Store to find a small plastic type tub that will fit underneath the filter to catch this spillage for the next change. Also going to follow an earlier "tip" and will have 2 small holes drilled into the dipstick to better see the oil level...not too hard when the oil is a bit dirty but very hard to see the oil level with fresh oil!