Propping up bucket on FEL

[Deere Dude]

Does anyone have a better way to prop up a FEL that is on the tractor and extended totally up than with a 2x4 propped up and jammed in a certain spot. It sure makes it easier working under the hood with it up.
I have safety concerns because I'm the one walking underneath the thing and I have heard of and know someone who was crushed doing something similar with a skid-steer.

I am sure the safest thing to do would be to take it completely off, but that's a lot of fooling around. Any suggestions other than "don't."

 

[texasjohn]

Some sort of scheme for propping it up is the answer.

You offered one idea made from wood.

I made two props out of some metal that I had laying around.

I've seen another idea here on TBN where a member cut a metal pipe lengthwise to simply sit it on each extended hydraulic cylinder, preventing it from collapsing.

Cutting a piece of metal angle is another way.

I'm not advocating it, but it's possible that a schedule 40 or 80 PVC pipe would do the same thing, split lengthwise. It's easier to cut...I haven't tested the structural strength in this application.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Or If you got the right size of channel iron and cut it a little short of the full lift of the lift cylinders you could put those in there and use a U bolt system to hold them in place. Also removing the bucket will have less weight up there to worry about.

 

[SixHoeBob]

The PVC will pop out of place, stinging and cutting like a bull whip. The loader then will proceed to add a whole lot more pain and agony to the situation.

Properly sized and clamped angle iron on BOTH cylinders will work. If you are not quite sure how to do it, you probably should not.

Taking the loader off is the safest, and it is good practice.:thumbsup:

 

[JB4310]

Sounds like a snug fitting channel iron would be the easiest, just have to cut the length.

How about just removing the bucket, you could hold a CUT's arms up by hand if needed I think, not much weight. Could still be a problem if someone bumped the stick while you were under there, wouldn't kill you but could get awkward getting tied up with it.

JB

 

[SixHoeBob]

Sounds like a snug fitting channel iron would be the easiest, just have to cut the length.

How about just removing the bucket, you could hold a CUT's arms up by hand if needed I think, not much weight. Could still be a problem if someone bumped the stick while you were under there, wouldn't kill you but could get awkward getting tied up with it.

JB

I know someone who as a kid had a finger cut off with a Lazy Boy chair. The dull flat metal linkage acted just like scissors. She might be married, but she doesn't have a ring finger.
I would not suggest holding the smallest loader arms up. Something will happen, the blood will flow, and the person will have to explain hundreds of times why they are missing a body part.

Exploring the possibilities can be very painful. Channel iron is not the answer.

 

[JB4310]

Channel iron is not the answer.

??? why? In that line I'm talking about on the cylinder rod like everyone else.

Seems like it would be slightly better than angle iron. If the channel was deep enough, a thru pin on each end to capture the rod and it would be idiot-proof.

JB.

 

[SixHoeBob]

??? why? In that line I'm talking about on the cylinder rod like everyone else.

Seems like it would be slightly better than angle iron. If the channel was deep enough, a thru pin on each end to capture the rod and it would be idiot-proof.

JB.

The flaw is that the channel iron is not deep enough.

A factory "channel" iron is a rolled piece of metal that wraps around the chrome rod and is pined as you described.

Properly sized angle iron more closely resembles the functionality of the factory cylinder support, even though it has two sides instead of three.

The real problem is the education by error method can be very costly.

I have studied quite a few cylinder supports over the years. Google "955L Safety Support" Can you explain how it works?

Without engineering the safety supports on a case by case basis and then verifying that the design was followed, it is better to avoid the hazard.

The PVC idea is a good example of a very bad idea.

The best response that incurs the least liability is "Read and follow the operators manual"

 

[boggen]

i to like when the FEL is for most part fully raised. it allows me to get into certain parts that i would other wise not be able to get into.

majority of tractors i have seen. normally always have a U shape like piece of metal, that hinges on one side. and then goes around the cylinder. and when you lower the FEL some. the weight of the FEL and bucket. basically holds everything together. and keeps the FEL from dropping.

though on another note. I HATE GETTING UNDER IT! all it is, is that one piece of metal. and if you have to hammer something. or pry something. and hit that one support hard enough by accident you could be in, a lot of deadly trouble real quick! thankfully all my hydraulics are all tight and good. exception boom cylinder on backhoe. after a 24 to 48 hour period it is fully collapsed but i still can't rely on hyd pressure still built up in the cylinders as a backup. to easy to hit a lever, and let things drop in a heartbeat.

so i generally rely on having a second person around. i really don't care who it is. as long as they actually stay around. and keep an eye on me. if they don't have eye contact with my body, i can get rather agitated rather quickly. and normally give that person a heads up of, going to be doing something dangerous that could... yada yada. so pay attention. and then when done let them know. so they can click on computer / text / or what not. but still be near by.

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as far as "reading owners manual) FEL (front end loaders) it could be original manufacture type (same as tractor) or it could be third party FEL. i have seen a lot of mix and matching on older tractors.

best bet, is hit the manufacturers website first and see if they have owners manuals listed. most likely if they do. they should also have a FEL listed if tractor had option to come with one. if not same FEL, there should be some sort of "stamped" in numbers (model / serial) some place on arms. that you could look up.

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i am hesitant to say use a 2x4 or something and prop the FEL from the ground. it can be rather easy at times to shift the tractor around enough. to cause a single 2x4 to slip off. even if you have the wheels of tractors blocked so the tractor can not roll on you.

perhaps as a backup option. get a ball valve that can handle the max pressure of your tractor 2000 or 3000psi (others be able to say better) and put them in line with your lines going to the FEL. so you can close the ball valves. and make sure you can hold the pressure in the cylinders to keep the FEL up. ((don't buy them generic brass gas valves at local hardware stores they are not rated at high enough pressure)) they would need to be much more costlier valves.

as far as a brace. i would see about custom making something. that i could use some pins to physical hold a piece of metal in place. and attach to arms and then attach to the sub frame of the FEL or sub frame of tractor. so only way FEL could drop is by physically removing the pins and then the piece of metal. (piece of metal being anything, bar channel iron, pipe, what ever, as long as it is strong enough metal and you can securely get the pins in. ) i suppose a U channel, Square channel, L channel would more likely be better options for this. i suppose a metal pipe could be used.

 

[TripleR]

I "usually" remove mine, but on occasion will simply raise it to full height and drive part of the way into the shed/garage where if it collapsed, I would just have to replace some trim.