'Professional' grade saws vs. 'Homeowner' saws

[5030]

That would flood my 620p, ask how I know.
choke on, switch on, pull 2 times when cold. choke off, pull to start.

Not if you leave the choke off when doing it. The choke plate causes that to occur because it causes a big pressure differential (vacuum) in the carb. I start all my saws, Echo and Stihl using that method and the ones with primer bulbs (my CS top handle saws) I don't pump the primer bulb more than 2 times as well.

 

[Darth_DMack]

I finally got it figured out, and it's starting well now. I don't believe the MS280 has a primer bulb...

I put four full tanks through it last Saturday, probably will do the same this coming weekend. It definitely cuts well.

 

[5030]

Not to start a pizzing war but I like the Echo saws better than Stihl and I have both. Echo's are priced lower than Stihl's are today and are just as good in all respects. My issue with late model Stihl's is Stihl has succumbed to the 'noise police' and new ones always need to have the mufflers modified right away to let them breathe. That and the electronic carburation. I really don't like anything electronically controlled at all.

 

[5030]

I finally got it figured out, and it's starting well now. I don't believe the MS280 has a primer bulb...

I put four full tanks through it last Saturday, probably will do the same this coming weekend. It definitely cuts well.

Any saw will cut well so long as the chain loop is sharp and the depth gages are set correctly. I always carry a spare sharpened loop with me and when the loop starts building pitch on the top of the teeth, it's time to change it out and the dull loop goes back to the shop to get sharpened and when I change out a loop, I always flip the bar over as well.

I sharpen and set a ton of chains for my arborist customers. Last chain sharpening session was 80 loops.

 

[5030]

Im looking at the Stihl 400 Has real nice power to weight ratio and the price is real good. Will run a 25”, which is fine.
Currently have 261C with 20” and Makita/Sachs 6401 with 24” (scored piston/cylinder)

Sounds like it's time to take it apart and install a new piston and rings but don't hone the cylinder if it's Nikasil plated as the plating is very thin and you'll destroy it if you hone it and then you'll be buying a new jug as well.. Just remove any stuck on aluminum from the bore (I use easy off oven cleaner) to soften it and a pick to remove it.

You need to look at an Echo CS 490 Timber Bear. They will stock pull a 24" bar but I run a 20 myself with full tooth (not skip tooth) chipper chain. Nice saw and less expensive than a comparable Stihl and has a better warranty as well, not that I've ever had a warranty claim on any of mine because I have not. If you really want to cheap out, buy a Chinese saw from Amazon. No warranty and if it breaks, toss it and buy another one....lol. Neo-Tek comes to mind. I had a weak moment once and bought one and gave it to a friend soon after.

 

[kenmbz]

Sounds like it's time to take it apart and install a new piston and rings but don't hone the cylinder if it's Nikasil plated as the plating is very thin and you'll destroy it if you hone it and then you'll be buying a new jug as well.. Just remove any stuck on aluminum from the bore (I use easy off oven cleaner) to soften it and a pick to remove it.

You need to look at an Echo CS 490 Timber Bear. They will stock pull a 24" bar but I run a 20 myself with full tooth (not skip tooth) chipper chain. Nice saw and less expensive than a comparable Stihl and has a better warranty as well, not that I've ever had a warranty claim on any of mine because I have not. If you really want to cheap out, buy a Chinese saw from Amazon. No warranty and if it breaks, toss it and buy another one....lol. Neo-Tek comes to mind. I had a weak moment once and bought one and gave it to a friend soon after.

CS590 ?

 

[5030]

CS590 ?

Yes 590. 59 cc engine.

 

[Rockbadchild]

My saw has so much compression when cold, on the first pull I do it slowly just to go through the compression and get things moving then I crank it and I don't know why she is that stiff, its not like its that big of a saw... if I don't do that the chainsaw follow cord upward instead of turning the engine and it feels like that cord wants to snap as well...

 

[5030]

If any saw has no cold compression when you pull the starter rope, you have internal issues. Time to pull the muff off and have a look-see at the piston and bore.

 

[Skeans1]

Any saw will cut well so long as the chain loop is sharp and the depth gages are set correctly. I always carry a spare sharpened loop with me and when the loop starts building pitch on the top of the teeth, it's time to change it out and the dull loop goes back to the shop to get sharpened and when I change out a loop, I always flip the bar over as well.

I sharpen and set a ton of chains for my arborist customers. Last chain sharpening session was 80 loops.

Flipping a bar is only as good as the oil holes being unplugged and rails being cleaned if those two things aren’t done what good is flipping a bar. If the pitch indicator works for that’s great but it’s no way to judge if a saw is cutting well, better way is the single hand test if a saw requires you to use any force it’s time for it to swapped.