Problems mounting 2 bottom plow...

[Investorguy]

Grrr... spent an hour trying to mount this thing to my 3PH. I just can't get it to work. It's too heavy to man-handle (and I understand the reason behind this) but man it's hard to get to work right.

Here it is. Wore some nice goves in my field.

Here's a close-up. The problem comes from the thing you mount to the 3PT side links is at different spaces on either side. Makes it nearly impossible (for me at least) to mount. You can see it in the pic.

I bought this thing b/c it is necessary to grind up the kind earth I got out here. Tilling it won't get up the roots, you need to till it, then plow it, before you reseed. I'm eventually going to do that to a large chunk of my land, but I'm only going to do a little at a time.

I think the main problem is that I'm a tractor noob, and even more so a plowing noob. I just picked the thing up today. I'm not planning on plowing anything today (too wet out here), I just wanted to play with it a bit, like anyone would do w/ a new toy.

Any help on how to mount this thing, and how I'm supposed to get this thing to plow, like challenges I may not know about?

 

[hunterridgefarm]

What I have done in the past is get one side hooked up. Then you will have to get back on the tractor and back-up or pull forward just enough to line-up the other 3-pt arm. They can be tuff to get hooked up. It sometimes helps if you have two people, one on the tractor and one helping to line-up the 3-pt arm.

What kind of tractor do you have?

 

[Investorguy]

Kubota 3400.

I can normally wiggle stuff around and get it on. Often i have to back up/move forward and raise and lower the 3ph, but this is a whole new deal. In oder to install the thing, you need one side mount to be about two inches higher than the other. That just doesn't work.

It's enough to make me want to spring for TnT.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

First off, a couple adult beverages, then try to orient myself with that picture, and SOMETHING doesn't look quite right.

If I'm in any kind of condition to judge things like this, I'm fairly certain the off-set of the drawbar needs to be flipped over. Furrow wheel lower link pin should read in the lower position with other side up. Makes quite a difference when hooking up and a great deal more when you try to get the plow to go in the ground..

 

[Investorguy]

So should I beat it w/ a sledge until it moves around the other way?

 

[Farmwithjunk]

My photo software is being moody. I can't size the picture for posting on here, but I've e mailed you a picture of the same sort of plow. Notice where the low end of the drawbar is at. This one hooks up easy and plows great.

 

[JerryG]

First hook up the left side to the plow. Then adjust the right side adjustable link on the tractor to the right side lift pin on the plow. Attach the third arm last.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Success! Pic one. JD 416A (2X14") plow. Note drawbar position.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Same type plow as 3-bottom. Again, note position of drawbar.

 

[Investorguy]

Okay.

I see how that is and I'm trying to get that bolt unstuck. No luck. Between paint and pressure holding the bolt on, I'm not having any luck. I'm beating my wrench w/ a sledge and I'm beggining to thing that my wrench'll break before the bolt turns.

How much does a new 2 bottom plow run?

 

[JerryG]

After you said that about the drawbar, I couldn't remember which way the silly thing should be. I even drew a picture to try to remember. Though that it might have been right. Looks like you got it though. That would create quite a problem.

After it is rotated, then hook it up like I said. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[PineRidge]

Just remember that if you do play with the adjustable side link once you get the plow hooked up it is necessary to trim the plow back out. The reason one lift arm is higher than the other is the put the correct angle on the moldboards as they enter the ground. My Dearborn plow uses a cam to make that adjustment while yours appears to be fixed.

 

[JoeL4330]

I don't know the "correct" way to do it, and am confused as to why someone would design an implement that way, but I often encounter a similar problem because the places where I drop an implement are never level, side-to-side.

I deal with it in one of two ways: I first hook up the lower of the two pins first and then (because the TPH "floats") I can raise it manually and slip it over the higher pin ...the lift arms are un-pinned so they can "sway" and my arms have a few inches of fore-aft play when their "thing-a-ma-jigs" are pressed. If that doesn't work, after one arm is pinned, I hook up the top link, which has mucho adjustment. With these two points, I can raise the implement and, when suspended, position it to the other lift-arm pin (being careful not to have a foot under the implement. )

 

[Farmwithjunk]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How much does a new 2 bottom plow run? )</font>

Not too sure you can even get new plows from any of the "major manufacturers" anymore. Howse sells one, but after TRYING one a few years ago, stick with the old ones.

The plow in the picture is from Deere, about 1955 to 1961 or 2. There was a model 415 which is (if I'm not mistaken,) a 2 X 12" mounted plow. The 416 was available in a 1, 2, or 3 bottom, 14" or 16" configuration. The 416A had a few minor improvements. Note on my 2 bottom, there's what is known as a "Landing lever". It's to adjust width of cut, which also helps align the plow. It turns that off-set drawbar slightly.

From what I can tell, my plow was bought new around 1958 or '59.

 

[Tenwalker]

#1: You have it hooked up.
#2: You will pull your hair out trying to break land with it as in the photo.
#3: When you use bottom plows, the right wheel of the tractor is in the trench, about 6" deep. To easily adjust the plows, place a 6X6 on level ground, drive the left side of the tractor onto this. Drop the bottom plows and adjust them so that they are level in this position. You may have to stop and adjust the top link after a pull. Do not get over aggressive with the point pointing down.
#4: If you are doing a reasonably small area, step it off or eyeball it and start in the middle of the field. Run one pull, turn around, drop the right wheel in the trench and make a return to where you started. Then is is just always making a right turn, dropping the plow into the trench until you finish the plot that you are on. RIGHT TURN, that's why race car drivers cannot do this.
#5: If this is a large field of several acres it is best to start on a left corner and completely go around the field. When you complete this reverse the direction and start on a right corner. Drop the right wheel in the trench that you just did and go completely around the field until you reach the center. Then you can break the corners from each corner to the center as in #4.
When I was a kid, I spent a many of hours going in squares.

Tommy

 

[Tenwalker]

Addition: The lift arm connection on the plow are correct. If you sit it on level ground and measure from the ground to the one on the right and from the ground to the one on the left, you will find that there is about 6" difference. I have a JD 2 plow just as the one in the photo and I have no problem pulling it with my LK3054, although since I have turf tires I use 4WD.

Tommy

 

[Cliff_Johns]

Tommy,
Very instructive post.

On that first pull down the middle of the plot, I guess the plow should be level without the 6X6 since your right tire isn't in a furrow? After that , then it needs to be leveled again, or doesn't this bit of tinkering matter?

Cliff

 

[rambler]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Tommy,
Very instructive post.

On that first pull down the middle of the plot, I guess the plow should be level without the 6X6 since your right tire isn't in a furrow? After that , then it needs to be leveled again, or doesn't this bit of tinkering matter?

Cliff )</font>

You are going to have some fun...... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif Setting up a plow to a new tractor is more art than science. You have to adjust the tilt of the plow in all 3 axis, and any one correction affects the other 2..... The plow should trail behind the tractor, without needing stablizer bars. You will be playing with the length of the top link a lot for the final adjustment.

Add to that: The first round on level ground is way different adjustments. So you will cuss & swear to get that set, & then everything changes to plow the remaining rounds - where one side of the tractor is 6 inches lower in the furrow.

Add to that, a rusty or painted plow bottom doesn't plow right, so it will plow real hard until you get it shiny.

You don't want a new plow, they are tin toys, you want a real plow like you have.

Hook up the lower 3pt pin, lift the 3pt arms up a bit with your tractor, hook up the 2nd pin, then lift or lower the plow to hook up the top link. Shouldn't take 3 minutes, no effort.

Once you figure out how to set up your plow, it will be simple. Figuring out how to do it blind - you will have a fun day or 2. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

--->Paul

 

[rambler]

On the orentation of the lower links: I'm not familiar with JD plows of this type, but wouldn't you want the arms set as they are for opening the field, and then rotate them so the opposite side is hi/lo for the normal plowing? Does not one of the levers control this cross shaft?

For normal plowing, the tractor will sit at an angle, the plow should sit level, so you would need the shafts tilt the other way than in your pic.

--->Paul

 

[RFB]

Not trying to hijack the thread, but if it is this difficult to plow (being ignorant I figured you just hooked it up drove the tractor back and forth and the plow did the work) and new plows are poor quality, what has taken the place of plows to accomplish the same chore?