Problem with my Moldbord Plow

[Prodirt6000]

Ok bare with me here with the not so good of a looking plow here. I found the plow and made the rest of it with scrap steel, so it doesnt look all that perfect

Anyways, I have a problem with this. When I go to plow, my top link, where the threads are bend over to the right whicked bad. Then the point of my plow will drop, so I need to take more threads out, but the more threads that are out, the easier for the rod to bend. So I'm in a binde. I'm not sure what I should do.

Probably if the top link and the plow support for the top link was more center with the tractor I wouldnt have that problem. But I'm not sure how I would go about doing that because theres not much metal to work with on this plow. Some type of A-Frame be best?

Also I dont understand why its bending the way it does because the two bottom lift arms should take all the pull of going left and right, right? Why does the top link bend? Is it because the point of the plow is always trying to drop?

Ok thanks everyone for taking the time to read this. Hope you guys have some suggestions!!

 

[builder2]

Ok bare with me here with the not so good of a looking plow here. I found the plow and made the rest of it with scrap steel, so it doesnt look all that perfect

Anyways, I have a problem with this. When I go to plow, my top link, where the threads are bend over to the right whicked bad. Then the point of my plow will drop, so I need to take more threads out, but the more threads that are out, the easier for the rod to bend. So I'm in a binde. I'm not sure what I should do.

Probably if the top link and the plow support for the top link was more center with the tractor I wouldnt have that problem. But I'm not sure how I would go about doing that because theres not much metal to work with on this plow. Some type of A-Frame be best?

Also I dont understand why its bending the way it does because the two bottom lift arms should take all the pull of going left and right, right? Why does the top link bend? Is it because the point of the plow is always trying to drop?

Ok thanks everyone for taking the time to read this. Hope you guys have some suggestions!!

Look at the post below, you will need an A-frame to fix your problem. All 3 ph plows have an a- frame set up.

Paul

 

[deereguy]

Looks like your double white angle iron in exerting to much pressure on the middle of the plow and if it where made into an "A" frame, that would allow the top link to float more and I think you might be closer to your desired results.

 

[rdbrumfield]

you need to build a triangle and hook it up like a 3pt of all other emplements. there is no way that with the small point where you have it hooked to the drawbar it will keep from tipping. the force of the sod being turned by the plow is considerable.

 

[milkman]

Don't know if this will help, I cut down an old plow and welded up a TPH frame, got lucky first crack out of the box and it works. I'm no plow or plowing guru, but maybe it will give you something to start with. The depth wheel helps with maintaining a consistent depth since the BXs don't have draft control.

 

[Prodirt6000]

Ok thanks alot everyone. I will have to see what I can do to make up an A Frame to work with this.

 

[milkman]

That's a good looking plow for the BX and you seem to have the plow angle concept down with the up/down pin placement on the TPH so you got a head start there. When I started work on mine, I placed a 6x6 block of wood under the left front and rear wheel of the tractor to simulate the right side running in the furrow. I then set the plow behind the tractor and measured from the inside of the right rear wheel to the landside of the plow and set the plow straight and level on the floor. Then I started with a TPH drawbar and measured and welded up the frame from there. It might take some time but it sure is rewarding when you see the dirt rolling over in the spring.

 

[sixdogs]

Don't know if this will help, I cut down an old plow and welded up a TPH frame, got lucky first crack out of the box and it works. I'm no plow or plowing guru, but maybe it will give you something to start with. The depth wheel helps with maintaining a consistent depth since the BXs don't have draft control.

That is a very nice setup and excellent use of an old plow.

 

[Stimw]

Google how to plow and go through the results. I did that a few years ago and learned quite a lot.
For instance, the term used to keep the plow running in the ground and not hopping back out is "Suck". You can have too much or too little Suck.
You also need it set up so that your tractor tires run in the last plowed pass. Once you make the first pass the tractor will almost steer itself.

 

[Prodirt6000]

Milkman thats basically what I did too when building my plow. Except I used a piece of firewood instead for the front and back tire on the left side. Then I took my plow and put it on the garage floor and built my mounts for the lift arms. The plow had some weird system origonally to mount to a tractor...it had some type of "C" or channel iron in the front to mount. But I just built a different type of system for the TPH as you can see.

But I still dont understand why the plow is bending my top link on the TPH. If the plow is connected to the lift arms, why is it "bending" back and forth? If I make some type of "A" frame should I make some pieces of steel go back towards the very back of the plow, and connect it to the 2x2? That make sense?

Oh and by the way, it did turn some dirt over and I was so happy to see it work!! Worked like a charm, besides my little problem

 

[Taylortractornut]

Yoour hitch style that was o nthe plow is called a sleeve hitck look in a Norther cataloague for Lawn and garden tractor Implements. Its gonnat neead the 3 point set up and the front like a Ferguson plow.

 

[BXpanded]

You have Brinley sleeve hitch plow made for a garden tractor. The sleeve hitch works differently than your 3 pt. The sleeve hitch pivots up and down from a fixed point, the 3pt is basically a paralellogram and lifts straight up. The sleeve hitch cannot tilt side to side, the 3pt arms can be pushed up independently. That's what is letting the plow roll sideways and bend your top link.

The "Beam" is far too weak for your BX, you don't need the screw adjuster, and the plow is too far rearward. You need to scrap the red portions of the plow and build your own frame from the plow (black vertical bar) forward. The frame should be rigid side to side. (The "A Frame" as you referred to it.) Also, you will likely bend the black bar going down to the plow itself unless you replace it or reinforce it considerably. Stop by the local implement dealer and see how the 3 pt plows are made. It's simpler than it sounds but you'll need heavier metal than you might think.

It will work great when you get it finished.

 

[Taylortractornut]

BXpanded you said exactly what I couldnt get out of my feeble brain lol. That attaches like my Farmall Cub and A plow does sorta like a mule plow to. They attach to the a lower mid mount drawbar with a pivot and the rear lift raises and lowers the plow.
You could do the same with the little plow since the pivots were intact make and adapter to bolt it to the drawbar on the tractor and use the lift arms with a cheapy lift arm drawbar attached to the top of the plow beam that way it would work like the old Brinley lift I had on and old LG tractor once. That way the plows angle could be adjusted like it as ment to from the factory.

 

[milkman]

I've been looking at the pics of your plow, and I can't see how you hooked the sleeve hitch on the plow to the mount you made that hooks to your lift arms. That needs to be a solid mount that doesn't swivel. Looking at the rear shots of your pic and mine, I can see several differences, I used a regular TPH drawbar that is 26" long and my bottom lift arms are centered side to side, the toplink is also centered side to side, then the plow is attached solid to the drawbar and braced to the toplink. I think if you start with a triangular frame centered between your lower lift arms and to your top link with that centered behind your tractor and then mount your plow to that frame it won't put your TPH linkage in a bind and then bend or break something. When you get that one working, find another one like it and I bet the BX would pull a two bottom version.

 

[Prodirt6000]

Ok I'm going to try to reply to everyone here in this one message.

The way I attached to the lift arms was I took a 2"x2" square tubing and cut it to the length I needed. Then I took 4 pieces of 3/16th inch and welded them in pairs to simply make them thicker. I did this just because I didnt have steel as thick as I would like it. These pieces went at the end of my square tubing. I welding the square tubing directly to Brinley? hookup that was already on the plow. So there is no movement in that at all. As you can see, I offset my pins when I welded them onto those pieces of steel. I did this by putting the tractor up on blocks that were about 6inches high, and took measurements on the lift arms using a level to get my height difference. I do think though that I did it too drastically because just looking at it looks wrong, and my right side of the tractor is never that low in the furrow. Since the square tubing is solid onto the plow, I am still having a hard time understanding why my plow is bending side to side. Or are you saying with the Brinley setup it made so that it's not solid, so the plow is allowed to bend?

I am planning on making the "A-Frame" system. I have seen them like that, and I wish I did that in the first place, but the way the plow was made it seemed like it would be a bit harder to do. Could be wrong though.

Oh and by the way, I just turned 19. Not too too bad for being kinda young right? I have also made a set of harrows, snow plow that hooks to the bucket, trailer hitch type thing on the TPH, a tray that goes on the TPH and I think thats it. If you would all like to see them I would be happy to put some pictures up.