preparing metal for electroplating

[wwwfarmer]

Hello everyone!

I've made a tractor implement to assist me with picking up onions and root crops, similar to this one:

I was thinking of painting the sidewalls and the bottom lifting blade, but regardless of paint used, the abrasive nature of soil will remove the paint, leaving the implement looking like this: https://www.huckinsforge.com/wp-content/gallery/bed-lifter/Ten-Lakes-Lifter-1.jpg


In my opinion, the shiny metal surface is very visually appealing. I'd like to grind it evenly and apply zinc coating via electroplating (not hot dipping). One of my tools I have has been zinc coated and it looks magnificent. Take a look: example-1, example-2. After the zinc is abraded away, probably as quickly as paint, shiny metal surface is underneath.

The other thing that I noticed is that because the zinc applied is very thin all the surface scratches are very visible. It is mandatory that I perform an even grinding when preparing the metal surface (I am using hardox 450 with primer on it). The maker of this product - http://twobadcatsllc.com/index_files/bedlifterfs.jpg had a similar taste, but notice how bad it looks compared with the fork I attached as example, due to uneven grinding.

This is my first time preparing hardox for zinc electroplating, in fact I only have a month of metal working under by belt. What are the necessary preparation steps and what tools(grinder and wheels) are the most suitable for a nice surface finish? I will need to remove the primer and the mill scale of the hardox. The goal is to have a finish looking like this: example-2. Do I need to do anything else besides removing primer and mill scale?

Thank you for taking your time and writing a response!

 

[Tinhack]

If you don't want to use paint, why use zinc? It's one of the soft metals like copper. It won't last either. If you want shinny, make your tool out of stainless steel. No plating is going to stand up against abrasive soil. That is unless you get into some exotics like titanium or other PVD coatings.

 

[wwwfarmer]

If you don't want to use paint, why use zinc? It's one of the soft metals like copper. It won't last either. If you want shinny, make your tool out of stainless steel. No plating is going to stand up against abrasive soil. That is unless you get into some exotics like titanium or other PVD coatings.

I agree with you about short lifetime of zinc. Either paint or zinc will get abraded away. Its just that if zinc is gone, the implement is hardly visually degraded compared to if paint is gone. That is, if kept in dry place so rust doesn't form quickly. That is my reasoning.

 

[Tinhack]

No need for any plating then. Just polish it. If you plan on maintaining it after the zinc is gone, plating is just a waste of time and money. You'll loose the plating on the edge almost immediately.

Typically, items to be plated are polished anyway. If you're obsessed with plating, use nickel. Nickel is what's under chrome and much harder than zinc. On a scale of 1-10, zinc is like toilet paper.

 

[DaveMueller]

There are several automotive finishes that will be way more durable than a home application of a zinc coating.
POR15 and KBS Rust Seal are moisture cure high solids paints that are like stone when cured. I'd try one of those before plating or any hardware store type paint.

 

[hddnis]

Polish it up till you are happy with it and then clear coat it or electroplate it.

Once you run it in the dirt that part will polish up even more, as soon as you are done take a rattle can and hit it with clear finish. Lacquer works well because it dries fast.

We did that with the plows and rippers, the metal sat there all super shiny till next year. We told the other farmers that it saved on fuel when we first started plowing the next season.

 

[Sberry]

That would work fine if you never painted it. For DIY hobby farmer would have been done already cause I would have sprayed with a bomb I paid 2$ for at Bargain Barn
15 minutes of I was in a hurry
Is the goal to make a tool or endlessly fug with it?

 

[PILOON]

The rattle can approach is what I do on my snow blower B4 storing for the summer.
All bare metal gets a light coating of whatever rattle can is at hand.
My theory is that wet snow will adhere to rusted metal much better than polished metal.
Since I never clogged last winter I guess I proved my theory.

 

[marhar]

Hello everyone!

I've made a tractor implement to assist me with picking up onions and root crops, similar to this one:

I was thinking of painting the sidewalls and the bottom lifting blade, but regardless of paint used, the abrasive nature of soil will remove the paint, leaving the implement looking like this: https://www.huckinsforge.com/wp-content/gallery/bed-lifter/Ten-Lakes-Lifter-1.jpg


In my opinion, the shiny metal surface is very visually appealing. I'd like to grind it evenly and apply zinc coating via electroplating (not hot dipping). One of my tools I have has been zinc coated and it looks magnificent. Take a look: example-1, example-2. After the zinc is abraded away, probably as quickly as paint, shiny metal surface is underneath.

The other thing that I noticed is that because the zinc applied is very thin all the surface scratches are very visible. It is mandatory that I perform an even grinding when preparing the metal surface (I am using hardox 450 with primer on it). The maker of this product - http://twobadcatsllc.com/index_files/bedlifterfs.jpg had a similar taste, but notice how bad it looks compared with the fork I attached as example, due to uneven grinding.

This is my first time preparing hardox for zinc electroplating, in fact I only have a month of metal working under by belt. What are the necessary preparation steps and what tools(grinder and wheels) are the most suitable for a nice surface finish? I will need to remove the primer and the mill scale of the hardox. The goal is to have a finish looking like this: example-2. Do I need to do anything else besides removing primer and mill scale?

Thank you for taking your time and writing a response!

To electroplate the metal must be very clean; rust and grease free. Electro plating involves placing the entire attachment in a bath and running a current through the bath and the implement.

Respectfully, it is going to be hard to find a company that can handle a part that big and if they can they will not let you use their bath because one dirty part will corrupt the entire bath. (I worked in a truck plant that elector plated the under carriage of class 8 trucks). Below is a large part plater. I do not know if they will do single runs. I am sure they will have specs on how clean the part has to be before going into their tanks.

Zinc Plating for Large Parts & Components | Gatto Industrial Platers, Inc.

Gatto Industrial Platers offers zinc plating for large parts. We provide 27-foot-long tanks and cranes that can lift up to 8,000 pounds. Contact us and request a quote!

www.gattoplaters.com

Chrome plate is even more temperamental. If the metal under the plate is not hardened the plate will not adhere; it will flake off in very thin layers.

There are companies that specialize in powder coating. Powder coating is durable and environmentally friendly.

 

[Sberry]

I been trying to poke the OP wuith a reality stick a little here. While its great to learn all this and evne talk forum about it millions of hrs put on implements of this nature for decades with no paint on it at all and this would last a liftetime without doing anything let alone electroplationg, zinc and all kinds of stuff. You asked about first time work of this nature and you are a poster child for a pice of scotchbrite and a spray can if you want some fuggin color on it.
When its done and before it rusts up and you can do this to steel like that is spray it with penetrating spray. Spray steel when new like that with it and it rusts to a hard finisn seems to seal it in. As Egon talk about down at that level if it sucks up a little oil before it does water it weathers different and to shiney steel like cultivator and plows when they are really fresh a shot of that stuff slows rust from pits to a whiff over a winter and it scours right back up and even a scuff of scotchbrite in the spring smooths it a little,,, this aint really moon shot science except for playing with the geometry where fine tilt and draft adjustments make all the difference.
Lot of people hook on and dont realize they are not the center of the tool and often needs adjustment even along the way. The finish doesnt mean squat, the finish is good as in the general appearance and people take better care of stuff well painted. Skip all this stuff and buy a couple spray cans as you go, a gallon in a couple colors and some sponge brushed from HF and box of scuff pads. You need a gallon of thinner to clean up and a couple rolls of painter tape and do it.
Here is what happened. I paint up a lot of worn equipment as needed and at overhaul, main service, some events.

 

[Sberry]

I just had ran the coarse that couldnt not have a place to paint equipment. The stuff was just old and fully depreciated and with a little care it all looked 40 years newer. I had enough I couldnt get someone to do the work, would been cost prohibitive, I tried some hired work and even couple shops but wasnt gonna get it.

 

[Sberry]

You can see the oem, the repaints are prolly 20 years in here and still look similar. The one has a red implement on the back. Lots easier to clean up and work on and the general appearance is so much different makes it look a little more modern.
Some of this I somewhat batch paint. I remember I did a fix to that back blade and it was sitting in the neighborhood when I assembled a couple fuel tanks and put them together and painted. I still have a few pieces could get done but they are not deal breakers, will gang it on at some point. I simply washed some big flat panels off on a used machine a while back and dumped a quart of green on them and make it look like a whole different machine. No one even notices I didnt paint the whole thing and every corner,,, I littewrally washed it off and painted it and didnt overspray the logos and man, 20 years difference simply covering some missing paint.
I paint up rigging and hoisting equipment, some of that going to last a long time and just doesnt look so home brewed.

 

[Sberry]

I am not a restorer, cars and light trucks just get so rotted out that while there is a point to paint there is a point they are simply too worn and depreciated. You can touch them up a little. But the tractor is still service worthy and maybe 4 a long time yet.

 

[Sberry]

This thing has its place but if this was much a real effort might even consider a single row tater digger. A digger is different than a harvester but it shakes the dirt out and leaves the crop on top.

 

[Sberry]

Pressure washing, painting are so obvious. It absolutely changes the impact and the perception. I am a fair painter, I have a whole cab full of exotic paint, this would get hardware store paint. I got no idea who would look at something like that and give the finish level a second thought. Not like its a custom Harley part someone puts on a new bike.
The tractor is slightly different, the book value not so much, quite a bit better painted but has such a long life ahead even as an alternative where its completely adequate and replacement would be expensive. I put a bearing I had in stock in the alternator and a battery in it last year. Added 4 quarts of oil to it maybe.