prep work to silver solder braze loader hydraulic line

[big bubba]

in terms of safety, beware of pinhole hyd leaks under pressure, you're prob aware of subcutaneous hydraulic fluid hazards if injected into your body, good luck

 

[etpm]

The way to properly silver solder is to heat fast and then remove the heat as soon as possible. When silver soldering the flux does two things, it cleans the metal and absorbs oxygen. The flux can only absorb a certain amount of oxygen and once it is saturated it stops working and the solder won't flow. The solder likes to wick into tight spaces by capillary action so a close fit between the tube and the fabricated cover is best. One thing that you can do is "tin" the cover piece and the tube with silver solder first, then let everything cool, then clean very well, then apply flux and solder. Remember that the solder will flow towards the heat. Don't put the solder into the flame. The solder must melt from contact with the hot metal, not the flame. Use plenty of heat. MAPP gas and a MAPP gas torch is good to use. An air/acetylene torch is even better. As is an oxy/acetylene torch. The biggest mistake I see when people are soldering is to use too little heat.
Eric
P.S.
If you do take too long and the flux stops working then ALL the burnt flux must be removed and the metal cleaned again so that it is bright. Trying to add more flux to a burnt joint just makes things worse.

 

[big bubba]

How hard is it to remove the line? Then you could get a straight line that length using old one as a pattern to bend it. I think that would be the best repair.

agree, have a new line fabricated, extreme hyd pressure is not something to be messed with while patching a leak.

 

[2manyrocks]

Trying to answer the questions that have been asked....

I bought a Harris silver braze kit maybe a year or 18 months ago. Tried to braze it once already and then the leak returned. I think this is the kit I bought. https://www.amazon.com/Harris-Solde...37530&sprefix=silver+braze+kit,aps,359&sr=8-5

Here are two pictures of my patch job. Does it even look like it will hold or is it obvious to the trained eye that I need to do it again?

The line isn't hard to remove. The issue I'm having is cleaning the tubing and then not having any experience with silver brazing like this.

The only steel material I think I have on hand that would comform to the shape of the loader line would be some 1/2 galvanized pipe or black pipe used for gas supply line. I tend to think not to use the galvanized?

Locally, we don't have a shop that fabricates hard lines like this. There is a place that can do custom hoses. I'd prefer a metal line, but could I substitute a hose if I can't repair the leak?

 

[big bubba]

if it's a fabricated hyd hose properly plumbed for either end, why not?
i do that for my tight space kitchen plumbing all the time (realizing the pressure is far different). that option would be a good one if connections were solid.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

There is a shop here that makes steel lines. Just had a bunch made for a log skidder. You can imagine the lines on it. Had one made for a manure spreader too, lately. They all fit just like they should.

 

[true temper]

I agree with you steel lines even patched ones look better than hoses running down the boom.

You bought some very good silver braze wire.

if it leaks which I am afraid it might you need to start completely over and sand the tube back to clean metal.

Find some flat steel and bend it around a bolt or 3pt pin.
copper may work, I don’t know I have always made a small patch out of steel, it don’t have to be very big.

Looking at your photos I think maybe you got it too hot, the right heat and cleanness is the key.

I have fixed a lot of them in the field, quicker than running to town and getting a hose made. You couldn’t get a new steel line made any closer than 200 miles from here.

 

[Fuddyduddy1952]

Trying to answer the questions that have been asked....

I bought a Harris silver braze kit maybe a year or 18 months ago. Tried to braze it once already and then the leak returned. I think this is the kit I bought. https://www.amazon.com/Harris-Solde...37530&sprefix=silver+braze+kit,aps,359&sr=8-5

Here are two pictures of my patch job. Does it even look like it will hold or is it obvious to the trained eye that I need to do it again?

The line isn't hard to remove. The issue I'm having is cleaning the tubing and then not having any experience with silver brazing like this.

The only steel material I think I have on hand that would comform to the shape of the loader line would be some 1/2 galvanized pipe or black pipe used for gas supply line. I tend to think not to use the galvanized?

Locally, we don't have a shop that fabricates hard lines like this. There is a place that can do custom hoses. I'd prefer a metal line, but could I substitute a hose if I can't repair the leak?

View attachment 797779View attachment 797781

Well if "The line isn't hard to remove." I'd simply remove it and get a replacement. Most auto parts stores have steel brake line all sizes and lengths. You could even get a longer one that diameter, cut ends putting correct fittings on and flare it.
Here we have a NAPA store that custom makes hydraulic lines of all sizes.
Trying to patch I could see so many problems especially spraying, cylinder collapsing, etc.

 

[wdchyd]

What is the OD of the tubing?
If a new tube isn’t in the cards the best approach is to cut out the bad section and sleeve over the existing tube, then silver solder, braze or tig weld.
Where are you located?

 

[2manyrocks]

Well, it was a totally bad idea to put copper on a steel line because of galvanic corrosion. Should have thought of that before. There's a hydraulic hose fab shop about 30 miles away. Will give them a call to ask if they do steel tubing.