PowerRake-Existing Lawn Restore

   / PowerRake-Existing Lawn Restore #1  

Wingone

New member
Joined
Mar 18, 2008
Messages
23
Location
central Illinois
Tractor
CaseIH DX34 FEL,Farmall 31
Next spring I am going to start working on my 2 acre yard in central eastern Illinois, which has been a yard for over 100 years. I have a Woods 5' Power rake and am wondering if it would be better to either till or moldboard plow the yard to turn under all the grass, roots and loosen up the soil prior to using the Woods Power Rake to level and fill in all the little holes in the yard. Anyone have thoughts on doing it differently. I have even thought of spraying roundup on all the weeds and then waiting a couple of weeks before turning the ground over, but that seems a bit radical but it sure would slow down the weed growth after replanting. I have had the soil tested and it really doesn't need lime at this time. Thanks
 
   / PowerRake-Existing Lawn Restore #2  
un less you all ready have it the power rake is an exspensive item.


they make a skid steer attachment

it would make more scene to me to rent a skid and the atachement or rent a 3pt version rather than buy.
 
   / PowerRake-Existing Lawn Restore #4  
You may not need to do either. Grass does not need that deep of a seed bed to establish, so usually the power rake does fine. It will really just depend on whether or not you are skilled enough to make it remove the grass in a reasonable amount of time.
 
   / PowerRake-Existing Lawn Restore #5  
What is the problem you have with the current lawn? Weeds or just rough terrain? Have you tried anything to recover the current lawn? Overseed, aeration, etc...?
 
   / PowerRake-Existing Lawn Restore #6  
Please define power rake. I have heard people call a Harley type rake a power rake and I also have heard the same for a dethatcher type rake. They do make them pretty big to be used with a 3 roint hitch for golf courses
 
   / PowerRake-Existing Lawn Restore #7  
What is the problem you have with the current lawn? Weeds or just rough terrain? Have you tried anything to recover the current lawn? Overseed, aeration, etc...?

Good question before we can give advice.
Also, any irrigation or relying on Ma Nature? What type of seed are you planning? Looking for a green field or a manicured lawn?
You indicated that your soil test came back OK and that you planned to use a balanced fert so I would not recommend turning soil, you will just activate more weeds and lose fertility. Fall is the best time to overseed or plant a new lawn. Spring is a problem to get new seed established before the weeds since you will not be able to use a pre-emergant. You will be fighting crabgrass and broadleafs all summer again.

I suggest: scalp mow, aeration, power rake to open thatch and break up cores, top dress with top soil in areas that need filled and then top dress the entire field (I prefer cotton-burr compost). Then spread seed based on new lawn rates from the seed company. You can do all this during the winter and let the snow work in the seed. Then plan on overseeding again in late August or early Sept for you area (at least 6 weeks before your first frost).

I used a chain harrow after scalping on my yard this fall. Overseeded and composted a blend of 3 Tall Turf Fescue & 10% Blue Grass (Winning Colors Plus from Lebonon seed) with starter fert. Yard filled in nicely with the extended warm days this fall. Spring I will aerate and pre-em in April & May. I am not grooming 2 ac. though.

Good info at "http://www.lawnsite.com"] Also, check your state conservation division for winter planting info and best seeds for your area. I got good pricing on seed from MFA (in Missouri). Check your farm assoc. Forget big box seed. Lesco is another good seed and fert supplier.
 
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   / PowerRake-Existing Lawn Restore
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Lets see...around here we have yards-a "manicured lawn" is not gonna happen. Yard currently has lots of weeds very rough in places where had an old house torn down by track-hoe and a bulldozer and then filled in with topsoil, mostly flat ground, but one low area where water tends to lay after rains(have a 6 inch ditch in low area, draining into field). I know usually the fall is the better time to reseed, and I was going to do it this year. We had a very wet spring, so got busy helping with the farming with my tenant farmer, and then from August 1st thru the end of October we got less than a half inch of rain and I am depending on Mother Nature for the water, so I decided not to take the chance of reseeding this fall. I was looking at fescue and bluegrass mix. Looks like the www.lawnsite.com website is going to be where I do a lot of research. Depending on the type of spring we have and how much I have to help my tenant farmer, I may just mow the ruff weeds until next fall and have a go at the yard next fall. I was thinking that moldboard plowing(where I can)would help with soil compaction. Thanks for all the info..I never ceases to amaze me the wealth of information available on this site.
 

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