Power Tool Cord Replacements

[Short Game]

It's been looking like all my power tool cords are falling apart at the same time. I don't know if it's ozone, or what, but the rubber insulation is just disintegrating. So, what I would like to know is, is there a good cheap source for three wire replacement cords? I have some long extension cords I can butcher out for the cord, but what about a good deal on nice plugs? Also, some of my power tools were previously owned by the kind of people who can't resist removing the ground prong, and I've long wanted to replace those plugs too.

 

[Egon]

Just buy the appropiate gauge or larger three wire cord and some male plugs and put it all together. No problem finding any of the stuff at the Box stores.

Hardest part is making nice connections at the tool end.

 

[Soundguy]

radio shack sells 3 prong cords that go to bare wire.. but for the cost, I'd hit a hardware or box store like egon said, buy enough bulk 3 wire cable off a spool, and then a handfull of 3 wire replac-a-plugs.. my local hardware store sells a yellow plug.. kinda klunky looking.. 3 wire.. internal screw together terminals, and has a squeezecable holder and short strain relief.. held together with 2-3 screws.. for 99 cents. that and some bulk black 3 wire cable.. or the bulk orange extension cable and (cheap ) per foot, and you can fix alot of them on the cheap...

soundguy

 

[Short Game]

Like I said, I've got the three wire cord. For most of my power tools, I like at least 12g wire. What I want is non-clunky replacement plugs that will fit side by side in close outlets. Do these exist?

I looked at extension cords, but to get bigger than 16g with a nice molded in plug is expensive. I haven't been able to find even the clunky plugs for as low as $.99. Maybe I will just have to snip and strip plugs from dead appliances and do solder and electrical tape. I'm okay with that if it's what I have to do.

 

[CurlyDave]

Like I said, I've got the three wire cord. For most of my power tools, I like at least 12g wire. What I want is non-clunky replacement plugs that will fit side by side in close outlets. Do these exist?

I looked at extension cords, but to get bigger than 16g with a nice molded in plug is expensive. I haven't been able to find even the clunky plugs for as low as $.99. Maybe I will just have to snip and strip plugs from dead appliances and do solder and electrical tape. I'm okay with that if it's what I have to do.

The box stores sell generic replacement power cords with nice molded plugs that will satisfy your first requirement. They are in the $10-$15 range for 14 ga.

If you look at the current draw of the tool, you will find that most will actually require only 14 ga cords. Use a 12 gauge extension cord to get power to where you are using the tool, and 14 gauge is fine for the power tool cord.

To me, the feel and flexibility of a real power tool cord is much better than that of an extension cord.

If you try salvaging old ones they will be hardened from age and not really up to the same quality as a new one.

 

[mjncad]

Have you checked McMaster-Carr? www.mcmaster.com

 

[kebo]

The box stores sell generic replacement power cords with nice molded plugs that will satisfy your first requirement. They are in the $10-$15 range for 14 ga.

If you look at the current draw of the tool, you will find that most will actually require only 14 ga cords. Use a 12 gauge extension cord to get power to where you are using the tool, and 14 gauge is fine for the power tool cord.

I think this is the best idea. I would NOT want to "build" my own power cord and use the "screw together" plugs on the end of a power tool cord, I don't think the reliability of that design would work well with a cord that will get flexed/pulled/etc on a lot. The .99 cent screw on plugs ones are the worst, the industrial versions are heavy duty and will be much more reliable, if you decide to do it that way.

Also, I wouldn't replace the cord unless I could open up the tool and replace the entire cord starting at the points where it connects internally. I abhor the thought of a ball of black electrical tape on the cord right where the power cord exits the tool, but that's just me. If you are ok with it, then go for it.

 

[Soundguy]

I think this is the best idea. I would NOT want to "build" my own power cord and use the "screw together" plugs on the end of a power tool cord, I don't think the reliability of that design would work well with a cord that will get flexed/pulled/etc on a lot. The .99 cent screw on plugs ones are the worst, the industrial versions are heavy duty and will be much more reliable, if you decide to do it that way.

Also, I wouldn't replace the cord unless I could open up the tool and replace the entire cord starting at the points where it connects internally. I abhor the thought of a ball of black electrical tape on the cord right where the power cord exits the tool, but that's just me. If you are ok with it, then go for it.

I've got those clunky screw together 99 cent types on a bunch of stuff. have yet to EVER hve one fail in 20ys. back then they cost about half that!

2 of them fit in a standard duplex outlet, in case the op was curious.

as for stripping the wire to the tool vs scabbing it on at the handle. ditto..

I'll replace an 'END' if that's al that needed.. otherwise it's the entire cord INTO the tool.. no e-tape balls mid way down..

building your own is the cheapest, as the ones premade with molded ends, as CD pointed out, can run you at least 8-15$

besides.. some things come with didiculously short cords.. I have a real nice makita angle grinder from a few years back ( 5? ) and it must have a 3.5' cable.. meaning I always have to use an extension, even right at my work bench avery cable I repalce gets a 4-6' whip, depending on what I use it for..

soundguy

 

[BXpanded]

Go online, find the parts distributor for the tool and check on the OEM cord. If I remember correctly, the cord for a Dewalt grinder was only $10 or so. The Milwaukee was about the same. We replaced about 4 recently.
Seems that every piece of steel that falls off a table lands on its edge on a cord. Remarkably good wire cutter.

 

[JerryK]

As an old retired electrician.... I'd just order the stock replacement cord if you can source it. If it is a cheap tool, with a low quality cord in the first place, I could see maybe trying to put something nicer into it if the tool was worth it, keeping safety in mind. Most quality tools have long lasting cords, with good strain reliefs, high flex stranded wire inside a good cord... and unless you try to saw it into shorter pieces [ like me ], should last 20 years. We used to get 10 years or more with heavy duty use.... [ not sure this is even worth $.02, but lets me vent some.... ]

 

[deereman75]

I find that the cords on my 1930s black and decker industrial tools are much better then the cords on all my new tools (even my new milwaukee drill), and the black and deckers all have the 80 year old cords that came with the tools.

 

[Short Game]

I find that the cords on my 1930s black and decker industrial tools are much better then the cords on all my new tools (even my new milwaukee drill), and the black and deckers all have the 80 year old cords that came with the tools.

Yup.

Here's one that had me pulling out my hair: my favorite 12V Milwaukee drill motor's brushes wore out. Non-replaceable brushes! WTF? I replaced it with two 18V Ridgids (probably made the same way now). I bought two because, on sale, the drill, charger, and two batteries were just a bit more than one large battery pack.

 

[Branchchipper]

Short game-
Avoid the big-box urge; Grover's Electric over in Vancouver (WA) is an outstanding store- try giving them a call about cords.
As for batteries, Interstate (multiple NW locations) has rebuilt Milwaukee 14.4v batts for me right there in the store- don't recall the price, but it was reasonable, and they work well- I know a lot of tradespeople that keep their Milwaukees going by this method.

 

[Short Game]

Short game-
Avoid the big-box urge; Grover's Electric over in Vancouver (WA) is an outstanding store- try giving them a call about cords.
As for batteries, Interstate (multiple NW locations) has rebuilt Milwaukee 14.4v batts for me right there in the store- don't recall the price, but it was reasonable, and they work well- I know a lot of tradespeople that keep their Milwaukees going by this method.

Well timed. I go to the VA clinic in Vancouver next Thursday for my "annual" check-up (now 16 months--saving money, I guess). I rarely go east from here, and Astoria is pretty limited.

 

[Soundguy]

Go online, find the parts distributor for the tool and check on the OEM cord. If I remember correctly, the cord for a Dewalt grinder was only $10 or so. The Milwaukee was about the same. We replaced about 4 recently.
Seems that every piece of steel that falls off a table lands on its edge on a cord. Remarkably good wire cutter.

and then what? 5$ to 8$ shipping.. thus nearly 20$

probably build 3 of them from the box store for that money..


soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Yup.

Here's one that had me pulling out my hair: my favorite 12V Milwaukee drill motor's brushes wore out. Non-replaceable brushes! WTF? I replaced it with two 18V Ridgids (probably made the same way now). I bought two because, on sale, the drill, charger, and two batteries were just a bit more than one large battery pack.

not replaceable.. or not externally replaceable / easilly replaceable?

someone assembled that motor and thus put brushes in it at some point right

soundguy

 

[Short Game]

not replaceable.. or not externally replaceable / easilly replaceable?

someone assembled that motor and thus put brushes in it at some point right

soundguy

Nope, from what I saw inside it, some robot assembled it. The brushes' pigtails were riveted in a frame that was staked together and seemingly contrived to prevent disassembly. Pissed me off, I tell you. Remember when brushes were replaceable from outside the case? Where did that go?

Things today are made to be sold, and once they've done that, they've served there purpose.

--Will Slayton​

 

[Soundguy]

even contact welded pigtails can be repalced. btdt on otherwise 'throw away' type motors with no external service ports to repalce the brushes.

mind you it took time to do it, and may not have been worth it on a throw away tool.. but I like to tinker and had a box full of brushes and found ones to fit... etc.

soundguy

 

[Short Game]

I'm one of those poor souls who, by way of pathology, can't throw anything away. I just dug out that drill motor and the brushes are riveted into a plastic end cap that was staked into the steel motor case. The welded ones I was thinking of were on something else I guess. I have the reputation of being able to fix just about anything. I'm going the way of the dinosaurs. If I found the right little brushes, the only chance I would have to put them on the brush springs is probably epoxy.