Power sharp auto sharpening chain system. 6yrs old... anyone using it?

[Dadnatron]

I was out working today, and cutting some stumps flush to ground height. Well, as would be obvious, I was in dirt a bit and my chain needed sharpening quite a bit. I can do it, but I found that I am NOT good at it, or at least ç´*ast at it. I spent quite a bit of time on each sharpening. And there was no option given my goal.

But, as I was sharpening (hand file system) I kept thinking there is likely a faster way. I have seen many options... all equally best/worst ever, depending on who is doing the review.

Basically, my needs are general farm use. Nothing �roduction and mostly it is purely cleanup etc. but when I need it, I want it working well. Given my technique is novice at best, and While I want to be safe, I have no desire to EVER cut so much as to become proficient and/or skilled. I want to safely and quickly cut whatever I am working on, and perhaps not picking up the saw again for another 2 months.

In that vein, I was thinking about the PowerSharp automatic chain sharpening system, and saw that there were a couple threads from 2011. So I was wondering whether anyone was still using it or has any thoughts? I知 willing to 層aste chain if I don稚 have to spend so much time sharpening each time I need.

And FINALLY, I can’t determine for certain whether there is a bar/chain available for a Stihl MS 251C-BE? The ‘selector tool’ doesn’t show one for it, but I not sure why that would be. 18” bar

 

[ericm979]

They don't seem to list 18" bars. If it's a small Stihl mount like the 025/023 then you should be able to find a 16". Might take some sleuthing.

I learned how to run chainsaws when I got a job as a wildland fire fighter in a place where the fire crews spent a lot of time thinning. It took me about two weeks of full days to learn how to hand file acceptably. It's not that difficult to learn.... it's kind of like sharpening knives. I actually enjoy taking a quiet 20 minutes in the garage to clean and sharpen whichever saw needs it the most.

But I can understand when you're cutting stumps and wanting to get the job done and the chain won't cut. Besides taking time to clear any visible rocks out before cutting and continually checking your cut line so you're avoiding dirt, the best suggestion I can make is to have a stack of sharp chains ready to use. And save your worn old chains for stump duty (but sharpen them first of course). Semi-chisel chain goes dull slower in dirt but if you hit a rock any chain will dull quick.

I've been doing a lot of chainsaw work the last year and a half and sharpening a lot of chain. Last year I treated myself to an Oregon electric bench sharpener. For a severely rocked chain it's faster than hand filing but for regular sharpening it's no faster.

 

[ultrarunner]

45 years ago we bought dad a sears best chain saw with Oregon Powersharp... it worked really well.

Sears discontinued the chain and a few years later it was not available anywhere... contacted Oregon and said it didn't meet new ANSI standards?

It cut well and was aggressive... 14" bar with Barracuda Chain.

 

[TractorGuy]

45 years ago we bought dad a sears best chain saw with Oregon Powersharp... it worked really well.

Sears discontinued the chain and a few years later it was not available anywhere... contacted Oregon and said it didn't meet new ANSI standards?

It cut well and was aggressive... 14" bar with Barracuda Chain.

I had one of these also with a 16" bar. Loved the saw and it would cut like crazy. It was different than the Powersharp but the idea is similar. The barracuda chain had the cutters facing upwards at an angle and it sharpened the tops to a flat chisel point. It had no anti kickback feature is why it was discontinued. The stone was built into the side cover so all you had to do was push on the lever a couple of seconds and you had a newly sharpened chain. I had a buddy that bought a new Husqvarna Bow saw he was bragging on and I challenged him to a race through a 12" Cherry log. I was 2/3 through before he was a 1/4 and he started leaning on his saw to try and catch up. He ended up throwing his chain at about the halfway point and I was done through.

The powersharp has a spring loaded stone that attaches to the tip of the bar. I may try one when I replace my bar.

When I sharpen my chains I grind the anti kickback tangs a little lower than they recommend. It makes the saw cut much more aggressively but of course you increase the risk of kickback. I have never had a saw kick back on me though.

 

[Dadnatron]

I got in touch with Oregon specifically about it, and they said they don't make them for my saw MS 251C, as it is 'too powerful' for their system.

That's too bad, because that system would be right up my alley.

 

[ericm979]

42cc seems kind of an arbitrary limit. You're only a few ccs over that.

If your saw takes bars that fit one of the saws they list, like an 023, then you could get that bar and it'll very likely work on your saw.

I'm not 100% sure that the system needs a special bar. I think the bar aligns the sharpening gizmo but I'm not positive. If the bar's not special then you just need a 16" ba for your saw that takes chain of the type that your saw uses (probably .325) and number of links that Oregon makes.

Kickback is definitely a thing. How much you have to worry about it depends on how careful you are when operating the saw. I use the nose for cutting stuff and do plunge cuts and I've rarely had a kickback and very rarely one where the saw moved more than the few inches I was expecting. But sometimes even operators with a lot more experience than I have get a serious kickback.

Right now I'm using non safety chain on my large saws and safety chain on the 025 and echo 352.

 

[ultrarunner]

I had one of these also with a 16" bar. Loved the saw and it would cut like crazy. It was different than the Powersharp but the idea is similar. The barracuda chain had the cutters facing upwards at an angle and it sharpened the tops to a flat chisel point. It had no anti kickback feature is why it was discontinued. The stone was built into the side cover so all you had to do was push on the lever a couple of seconds and you had a newly sharpened chain. I had a buddy that bought a new Husqvarna Bow saw he was bragging on and I challenged him to a race through a 12" Cherry log. I was 2/3 through before he was a 1/4 and he started leaning on his saw to try and catch up. He ended up throwing his chain at about the halfway point and I was done through.

The powersharp has a spring loaded stone that attaches to the tip of the bar. I may try one when I replace my bar.

When I sharpen my chains I grind the anti kickback tangs a little lower than they recommend. It makes the saw cut much more aggressively but of course you increase the risk of kickback. I have never had a saw kick back on me though.

I'm glad you posted... reason is when I mention the Power Sharp people react as if it's a Legend or Fantasy...

It really worked very well... Dad had a professional logger friend retired... he was over and gave it a try and was impressed how well that little saw and chain cut... Barracuda is a good name for that chain...

 

[xyz123]

There is the new powersharp system. Oregon sent me one a few years ago to test out ad give feedback. Works good for it's intended purpose.

https://chainsawrepair.createaforum...regon-powernow-battery-powered-trim-chainsaw/


From above thread from oregon rep.

As some of you are aware, in 1965 Oregon released a chain called Topsharp that ultimately failed. (a.k.a. Barracuda) This was mainly due the stone being shaped by the cutters and OEMS doing a poor job of implementing the sharpening system into their saws. The new PowerSharp on the market today has been re-engineered to correct the mistakes made in the older version.

We currently have two applications for PowerSharp on the market. One is the system built into the PowerNow CS250 Chainsaw and the other is an aftermarket setup for gas saws. The aftermarket kit includes a bar, sharpener, stone, and a chain. The 2 systems are the same except the way it is applied to the saw. PowerSharp on the CS250 is applied with a lever built into the saw and the gas version has a spring loaded sharpener that is attached to the bar and depressed against a solid object. PowerSharp sharpens from the top down just like the old Topsharp. As the chain is passing through the stone it is performing 3 functions. It is sharpening the cutters, setting the depth gauges, and dressing the stone. The cutters and depth gauges are able to be ground at different lengths because we are sharpening on a radius. The stone is being dressed by a diamond coated link (the only gold colored link) that makes sure the stone is always the correct shape to properly grind the cutters throughout the life of the chain. If performed at the proper intervals (3-5 seconds), there is no danger of overheating and annealing the cutters. The system on the CS250 averages 10-20 and the gas saw averages 5-15 sharpenings per chain/stone (Difference due to chain RPM). The chain and stone are designed to wear out at the same time and come together as a replacement kit. As a design benefit, PowerSharp maintains it's edge 2-3 times longer than traditional chain because the chrome is laid on the underside of the cutter. This was needed because the cutter is being ground on the top. When traditional cutters force themselves through wood the chrome is constantly under pressure to peel back and off due to friction. With PowerSharp the chrome wraps around the nose of the cutting edge and "holds on" to the cutter longer resulting in a harder edge which leads to better performance.

I perform demo's all the time by dulling the chain on concrete then re-sharpening to cut wood again. I've even done side by side tests with used railroad ties. The PowerSharp maintained it's edge on average twice as long as traditional chain in the gravel infused wood (lots of sparks while cutting). I was able to perform a 3-5 second sharpening and I was on my way again. With the traditional chain I had to stop and change out the loop. It really does work. I encourage you to visit the PowerSharp website to view the components I mentioned. It may help you visualize the process. PowerSharp Portal

I hope I actually provided some insight rather than just confusing folks...

Luke

 

[newbury]

I was out working today, and cutting some stumps flush to ground height. <snip>
And FINALLY, I can稚 determine for certain whether there is a bar/chain available for a Stihl MS 251C-BE? <snip>

As you've found your saw is a little overpowered for the system.

You should really try to learn hand sharpening. It's mostly "muscle memory". While I can't RELIABLY hand sharpen my chains a dozen times without needing correction it's relatively easy to "touch up" a chain so I'm making chips, not sawdust. And hand sharpening really only requires a round file and a flat file.

Of course you can get "fancy" and get something like the Timberline or the Stihl 2-in-1.

 

[John_Mc]

I second the suggestion that it is well worth your time to learn hand sharpening. However, true freehand sharpening (just a round file with a handle on it, no guides or filing jigs) is tough to learn to do well. I've met a whole lot of people who think they are good at it, but only a few who really are good at it.

Fortunately, there is no real need to learn to do it completely freehand. They are some very effective filing guides that help you do it right. Someone already mentioned the Stihl 2 in 1 system (which is basically just a relabeled Pferd Chainsharp system). I find it a bit cumbersome to carry with me, but it does get good results.

Two guides that I have used:

An Oregon file holder that keeps your file at the correct depth when sharpening.


Roller file guide sold by Husqvarna and others:


Both are easy to learn to use, and get great results.

Sawchain Sharpening is one of the better sharpening videos I've seen. It's by one of the owners of Northeast Woodland Training, the folks in my area who teach the Game of Logging. It's not free, but he does know his stuff (I have no connection to him or the video). There are just too many YouTube videos out there by people who are putting out bad information. I ended up buying a copy of the DVD, which I lend out to friends who are interested in improving their sharpening skills.