Pouring Concrete Around a Well Casing???

[Indygunworks]

I could still do a square, and just use the smaller sonotube for the inside to keep it open... BUT, I don't see the point. I am considering now making a paper template of the bottom that once the concrete sets up just a bit I can insert stainless threaded rod into the pattern. that would allow the concrete to be 3 -6 inch's below the top of the well casing leaving room for the cap. I could put some nuts and washers on the threaded rod and put the pump base over that. It would elevate the pitcher pump but still allow normal use. If there are ever any issues and the bolts are in the way I could double nut them and back them out w/ a wrench.

The well cap options you list would work well for an uplift pump, but that's out of the budget. I plan on an installation similar to this, except with the well casing being slightly above the concrete not below.

Lee Valley Tools - Installing and Using the Pitcher Pump

 

[FredH]

How Deep is the well ? You stated your water table level but not at what depth your head will be at .

Pumps in the well are called submersible's . Above ground come in a couple of ways . Pure suction , which appears to be what you are refering to , are shallow well , single pipe , as you stated . Then there are " Jet " type , which actually have 2 pipes going into well with a jet venturi at the bottom . Pump actually uses water to pump water . My Dad has that type . He uses a 110 / 120 volt dual stage pump . Water table is about 15' , while jet is around 28' . Pumps 7 to 8 gallons per minute and maintains 50 psi , running 2 large rainbirds . No idea what his well produces , water table never changes .

My wells are submersible . One is 180'+ , the other is a touch over 200' . Single pipe with guides and wire down the hole .

As far as cement around casing , I would just follow what others have stated . Flush or not to top of casing , but still slope away all directions . Also consider sloping ground around entire area Away from casing . No Standing water around casing or cement you pour . With water table that shallow , Contamination can filter down pretty quickly .

Fred H.

 

[Indygunworks]

Most wells in the area are around 100 feet deep. the two that are within 100 yards of where my well will be both produce over 100 gallons per minute. One has a static water depth of 11 and the other 13.

So the concrete will not interfere with any future maintenance of the well?

 

[SPIKER]

Most wells in the area are around 100 feet deep. the two that are within 100 yards of where my well will be both produce over 100 gallons per minute. One has a static water depth of 11 and the other 13.

So the concrete will not interfere with any future maintenance of the well?

Sounds real good for flow and static water level for the suction pump, less than say 20 feet is needed. Once lifting they can suck to about 25 or so feet (at sea level pressures.)

The only issue will be if your line leaks at the pitless adapter on the (outside of the casing) connection. (That is where the line leaves the well and into the house.)

I would suggest that if/when you do pour concrete around the well casing (note you need clearance so at some point it can be pulled up of the top of the casing via tractor.) Leave a gap around the casing enough that the concrete slides off the top of the casing. I would wrap some heavy foam 1/4" or card board tight against the casing that should be good. I would also make up the bolts so they are cast into the concrete build a ring of rebar and weld the bolts in to that along with a rebar square pattern for support. lay it into the form and as other said give it a good fall away from the casing leaving the casing exposed above the concrete & attach pump above it. Get the pump company and see if they have available commercially the cover for the pump to prevent contamination.

Mark

 

[Indygunworks]

I like the idea of predoing the bolts to the rebar... I could get it spot on then. I could also use that as a lifting point if I have to move it again. Making it removable would eliminate any issues I may have w/ the concrete being in the way of servicing the well. I would want at least 1/4 inch of clearance for this method though to allow for some error when replacing the concrete to prevent damage to the casing. I could use the "internal" seal (pipe plug?) when resetting it to prevent any dirt or debris from falling into the well.

I also think I could fabricate something to cover the top of the pump to prevent anything from being able to enter the well. Some sort of play dough or something like that to make a seal

 

[Indygunworks]

Doesn't look near as cool but would all me to pressurize the pressure tank, and pump UP to fill larger items. Says its double acting. and it has a sealed top. Doesn't have the cosmetic value though which is really the idea here. I can have the casing sticking up out of the ground looking like it BELONGS, and not just a piece of PVC sticking up out of my yard.

Heller Aller PHB Brass Cylinder Pitcher Water Pump | Water Well Pumps

 

[wrooster]

this is the first I have heard about the spacers inside of the well casing. the well will be dug sometime in feb or march, and I am hoping to have this stuff onsite so the well guy can see it and help with the installation accordingly. Maybe he could omit any of the spacers for the first 30 feet of the casing.

In most submersible pump applications, split rubber "torque arrestors" are used on the water pipe to prevent the pipe string from twisting every time the pump starts. There is typically one arrestor located about 5 feet above the pump, another about 20 feet above that, and a third about 20 feet above that (the second and third arrestors help prevent "lashing" -- the pipe striking the side of the well bore casing when the pump starts).

wrooster

 

[wrooster]

that's why I am wanting a suction pump where all it has is a 1 1/4 inch pipe that goes down into the water column.

Just note, you can not "suck" (pull) water up from deeper than about 25-28 feet -- it's physics. In order to get water up from deeper than 25-28 feet, you need some sort of power at the bottom of the well to push the water upwards. That power can come from electricity (aka submersible pump) or from high pressure water (aka jet pump). The latter does require running two pipes down the well bore.

wrooster

 

[Fossil Farm]

Interesting photos. Thanks for sharing. Around here, the well casing has to be at least 1 foot above ground. Bentonite is used instead of a cement or concrete grout (for water wells) around the casing. Grout is used around gas and oil wells.

 

[bspeedy]

One thing to consider... You stated that you will have a pitless adapter. If your pump is to be pulled and replaced, the pitless adapter can stay in place. If the well must be cleaned out due to a cave-in or to be drilled deeper, the pitless will have to be dug up and removed while the work is done. A concrete slab will make removal of the pitless adapter difficult or impossible. Share your ideas with your drilling contractor and go with his recommendation. No sense in making things more expensive for yourself or more difficult for the contractor later. My dad - water well contractor for 40+ years - always laughed about people that tried to camouflage their well casing. We've seen shrubbery, fake wishing wells, fake rocks... Most of them were ruined or damaged when trying to service the well. We've also seen older wells that were drilled in the basement of a house. Great idea until it's time to work on it. One guy on the roof, one gun in the basement, one guy running the machinery and lots of shouting to keep everyone safe. All of that to keep the well out of the yard...