3-Point Hitch post hole auger

   / post hole auger #11  
Another thing to consider is the lifting capacity of your 3PH.

I have an auger for my little old 13HP B6100 and that's plenty of HP to turn the auger even in our clay soil.

Problem is the 3PH on my B6100 has so little lifting capacity that I can dig barely a couple of inches before I have to lift the auger to clear the flights.

Remember, leverage is working against you in this case. The weight of the digger plus the auger plus whatever dirt is in the flights is WAY out there beyond where your lifting force is acting - effectively multiplying all that weight.
 
   / post hole auger #12  
As others have said, check the size of the Post Hole Digger before buying. If you can't clear the hole lifting it all the way up, it isn't going to be worth having. I know that Leinbach makes a Jr. version of their PHD, for smaller framed tractors. I am not saying the Leinbach makes the best, because I don't believe that they do, it is just a reference. I would also say that the term auger (without grabbing a dictionary) is the term most people would use for the bit that goes onto the PHD. I don't think it matters what auger you get, although a the 6, 9 and 12's are the most common for home owners. There is a big difference between augers, single vs. double flights (fluting), the tips, grades of metal they are made from etc. Most people just buy whatever is readily available.

I got my brand new but dinged up woods PHD for my tractor at auction for 450, and it came with a nice double flight 9" auger.

Happy hunting, the deals are out there but sometimes they blend in with the scenery.
 
   / post hole auger #13  
you have plenty of HP. the hand held ones have 3-7 HP gas burners on top.
 
   / post hole auger #14  
I have a ph digger from back in the 50's that came with an 8" auger, I later bought a 12" one also. I start off slow but after I get the hole started I rev it up so the hydraulics will have more and faster lifting power. I was potty trained on the ph digger using a heavier Ferguson 35. You could really sink it in and the old Ferguson would lift it out fully loaded in sandy/clay soil. I later aquired a 2200 Yanmar (24HP?) and the first hole I dug I let the auger go in pretty deep like the older tractor. When I tried picking it up it was screwed in deep, it wouldn't budge, but it would lift up the front of the smaller tractor. I took a farm jack and jacked up on the boom to break loose the dirt that was still intact holding in the auger. Only jacked 8 inches or so, then the tractor could lift it out of the hole. After that, I still use the 12 auger on the little tractor, you just dig a foot or so and raise it up to sling the dirt out and then go another foot. The jack sure saved digging it or screwing it out.

I've later picked up a 4" auger and thinking about attempting digging a shallow well with it using 5' extensions and washing out the loose dirt.

I also use mine to bury small animals if it is already on the tractor. Dig 2 holes close together 5' deep and then cave the sides in with a shovel until I get the larger size hole needed. With going deep, the caved in dirt doesn't end up being too shallow.

Also going to dig 3 holes about 3' apart going down 5', going to put rock in the very bottom and slide in some 12" pvc with holes drilled in the sides to allow drainage out the sides. Put rock around the sides about 3' deep, and use 1 1/2" drain line to connect the 3. Going to use 4" X 16" X 16" concrete cap blocks for lids. The holes end up being about 14" wide to allow rock around the outside. I am going to hook up my fish cleaning sink to this, this way the water and scales don't create flies and no water standing on top of the ground. No more use than this sink gets it should drain well between uses. Also, I am in sandy land on top of a hill.

And I have used mine to plant trees.

Lots of other uses for it so I don't suggest hiring it out or renting one if you can find a good used one at a reasonable price. I paid 140.00 for mine but had to upgrade the boom. The old 50's style didn't work well.
 
   / post hole auger #15  
Eventually your gonna' break a shear bolt in the field. I carry some spares with me along with a hammer and a large (12") drift to punch out the old pin, realign the auger and a hammer to drive the new pin in. Always use low grade bolts.
I also run at just above idle and dig slowly. If I take too much at a time the
3PH on my 45hp Massey will not pull it out. I have a 24" auger for planting balled-in-burlap trees. One day 4 of us planted 65 trees. Could never have done it without the PHD.
I also had to replace the boom as the one that came with it wouldn't fit the 3PH on my machine. Never did figure that one out.
 
   / post hole auger #16  
I found that the problem is never getting the post hole digger in the ground. Your 20 HP tractor should have plenty of power to screw it in up to the shear bolts.

The problem is getting it back out of the ground, especially if you have a heavy clay soil.

You need to be very vigilant, dropping it down, letting it dig 4-6 inches and then popping it up until the hole is the proper depth. If you just drop it down and watch it screw itself in, you will have fun getting it out.
 
   / post hole auger
  • Thread Starter
#17  
thanks. buying a used one is what i'm thinking. i can always sell it after i use it at my convenience.
 
   / post hole auger #18  
Sounds like a good plan to me. If you look after them, they hold their value well. I advertised in three provinces looking for a used one, and it eventually turned up. Nine times out of ten, somebody will see the want ad, and realize they haven't used their phd in years. Mine had spent three years dug into the ground, the auger was still in great shape, which surprised me. We freed up the PTO shaft, replaced two roller bearings and added new lube in the gearbox, and it's as good as new. Total cost, about $700...

We have about 7 acres to fence, plus other jobs that require holes, so it isn't like ours is likely to gather much dust.

Even replacing posts is an easier job with the phd. It always seems like the hole isn't straight anymore, or the new post is larger than the old one. 30 seconds with the digger and there's a nice fresh hole waiting for the new post.

Sean
 
   / post hole auger #19  
Don't push the digger. Take your time, take small bites, lift it out, and shake the dirt off the flighting. In the long run you will get the job done quicker. I have a friend that dug post holes with tractor PHD that was spaso. He sunk the auger into ground on every try. We spent more time digging out the auger than drilling holes.
 
   / post hole auger
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Thanks to all. Some good advice to consider. I'll be patient in my search, and in putting the holes in.
 

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