Post Hole Auger 2020

[jhendric]

Guys,

I've read many of the threads on PHDs, most are pretty old so I wanted to start a 2020 thread on PHD. I am presently looking at Tractor Supply and Agri supply. They are close in price, the Tractor Supply one is rated at 18-100 hp and the Agri is 25-65. This makes me think the TSC one will be beefier if it can support 100hp. I will be spinning a 9" auger into Central NC Clay and rock and I need over 120 holes for a fence. My budget in less than $1000. What do you think?

Here is the link to them:

TSC:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-3-point-post-hole-digger-602377#

AGS:
3 Point Post Hole Digger Frame With Gearbox | Agri Supply 69499

 

[Tinhack]

I was going to get one to do some cross fencing for cattle. Then, I thought what would I do with it after that? Instead, I rented a skid steer with a PHD attachment. As I recall, it was about $200/day or less. I had the lines/holes marked and ready and I finished over a 100 holes in one day. Took the machine back the next morning. Spent the next week and half building fence.

Forgot to mention:
None of the PHDs I've seen will work with a 3-point quick hitch. And with the cylinders I have now, it's not worth the hassle of removing for each use of the PHD. Don't know why the PHD needs it's own top link. :confused3:

 

[zzvyb6]

If you need 100 hp to dig a 10" hole, go with the plutonium. I can dig into hard clay at idle with my TSC PHD. The key ingredients are a sharp tip and sharp, properly positioned / angled cutting and shaving blades.

Because of the neck strain involved in post REPLACEMENT (the deer crash the fence), and because I picked up a hydraulic motor at an estate sale, I fabbed up a hydraulic driver and use my existing augers. I hang the digger off the left side of my bucket and use the curl lines to drive it. Flop the bucket to full drop, connect the lines and off to the races. It's mounted to the bucket via a male 2" trailer hitch and a 2 leg female insert with a pin in the motor cage (made up from scrap plate).

You don't need speed to dig a hole (this motor is about 60 rpm at above idle engine speed). but now reverse and down force is handy.

 

[jhendric]

To be clear I don't need, or have, 100hp...my tractor is 40hp. My thought is the one rated for 100 should be beefier...I'll check my local Sunbelt Rentals, usually if I have to rent a tool 3 times the cost is about the same for me...that is for smaller dollar tools of course...

 

[jhendric]

Confirmed on the rental. Skid Steer is $270 per day and the auger attachment is $100. I could buy the implement use it then sell it on Craigslist and come out better. IT's crazy how much people are getting for implements on CL here in NC.

 

[zzvyb6]

I didn't mean to imply you had a 100 hp tractor, its simply that the 100 hp gearbox, boom and U-bracket will be MUCH heavier than a 25 hp attachment. And ultimately you probably are going to have to lift it by hand to put it together.

What I would do is drill a shallow hole in a parking spot and disconnect it at that location with it in the ground. Otherwise it's a PITA to horse it around. That's why I went with the hydraulic method.

 

[jhendric]

That's a great idea, thanks for the tip!

 

[Tinhack]

Confirmed on the rental. Skid Steer is $270 per day and the auger attachment is $100. I could buy the implement use it then sell it on Craigslist and come out better. IT's crazy how much people are getting for implements on CL here in NC.

Wow! That's outrageous! But for me, it's been around 10 years ago. I'm pretty sure it was around $200. I remember renting a backhoe for around $230. I put the dirt path I call my driveway in with a rented Galion grader from the same place. Seems like every time I went there I was handing over a $200 bill.

 

[CoyPatton]

I didn't mean to imply you had a 100 hp tractor, its simply that the 100 hp gearbox, boom and U-bracket will be MUCH heavier than a 25 hp attachment. And ultimately you probably are going to have to lift it by hand to put it together.

What I would do is drill a shallow hole in a parking spot and disconnect it at that location with it in the ground. Otherwise it's a PITA to horse it around. That's why I went with the hydraulic method.

Nice job it using the high end rating of one implement and the low end of the other.

 

[rademamj1]

Get the tractor supply PHD, because it looks stronger and you should have an easier time selling it. If its 100% clay your drilling, expect 15 to 18 holes per day. Any sandy content to your soil will greatly increase speed of drilling and auger extraction.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Get the tractor supply PHD, because it looks stronger and you should have an easier time selling it. If its 100% clay your drilling, expect 15 to 18 holes per day. Any sandy content to your soil will greatly increase speed of drilling and auger extraction.

Been decades since I ran one or helped where we used one but I seem to recall on decent ground where you can just drive the tractor straight on a new fence row, you can drill one in 15-20 minutes which is 36 in a 12.5 hour day. That was a Danuser PHD on a IH 574 or 464. Now if you have to back up to an existing fence and position it a lot or on hilly ground, yeah, much longer.

 

[MechE1]

Bought and used the EA 6900 PHD earlier this year. 12in auger. 46HP (engine) and ran at just above idle. Black dirt/glacial till with clay about 20 inches down. Smooth and easy. Was also the first time using a 3 point PHD. As for taking on and off. Well, top link (cylinder) had to be removed but was quite easy with the quick connects. Work smarter and think about levers and lifting when installing and it's not that bad. 15-20 minutes to swap with the quick hitch. I'm larger than the average bear and could lift the PHD mast and gearbox and move it where I needed, like into my bucket to store in the shed. I took off the auger and PTO shaft to avoid any rust issues as it wont' be used often. Note that you can rent 3PT PHD at the green rental store. However, this "region" didn't have one and I'd have to pay freight both ways to rent it. Otherwise it was pretty cheap. EA's cost was just over your budgeted amount. Seems like they are close to you too....

 

[jhendric]

Ha, my fence will be through the woods in rocky clay soil I'm counting on 10 holes a day...I really like the idea of Everything attachments especially since they are 2.5 hours from me, but they are pretty significantly more expensive. Is it worth the premium?

 

[MechE1]

Woods. Rocks. Clay. I'd say yes to the premium. But then again, I don't go the less expensive route on something I will likely abuse and/or keep for a long time. I have no experience with smaller/lesser gear boxes. I can say the structure is a beast, and based on photos I've seen much more significant than less costly options.

I have no idea if EA would give a "pick up" price. You can always send an email and ask if you are willing to make the trip. Mine came in 4 boxes that would easily fit in any pick up or SUV if seats fold down.

 

[rademamj1]

Ha, my fence will be through the woods in rocky clay soil I'm counting on 10 holes a day...I really like the idea of Everything attachments especially since they are 2.5 hours from me, but they are pretty significantly more expensive. Is it worth the premium?

Using a chainsaw for access along your fence line, will slow things down alot. I did 800 feet of property line fence last year, and cleared most with saws. To speed up the fencing part, instead of drilling every post, I only set every 3rd post as a 6' 5" long 4" diameter top treated post, set 18" into the ground and and 25' apart. Set them vertical with a level.

This was not a barbed wire fence. My fence was 5' high welded wire fence in 330 foot rolls, stretched with a tractor and then nailed to the anchor posts. Then two Tposts were pounded into the ground between the wooden anchor posts, and the fence secured to the Tposts. Averaged 45 minutes per anchor post, and 6 minutes each Tpost. Using Tposts reduced the fence installation time, without significant compromise on strength.