Poplar for siding a Barn.....

[MotorSeven]

I can get 1,000 board feet 1x6 to 8" for $150. I have never used Poplar as a board on board/bat siding. Seems like a cost effective way to go if i don't have to replace it in 5 years.
Any experience is appreciated! I don't want to do anything un- poplar /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

RD

 

[JJT]

Poplar doesn't fair well when exposed to the elements, it's rots very fast. I don't think you are going to be happy with Poplar siding. For interior work, it's a great wood. Easy to work, holds stain well and very few knots. The price is exceptional, I'd buy it and save it for an inside project.

 

[plumboy]

That is a great price if its in good shape.It goes for around $.50 board foot here.I think it would look great as a siding but its a soft hardwood,maybe if you plan on keeping it stained or sealed it might be ok.

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Motor -

I agree with the other responders that poplar is not a good choice for siding. Around here, it's pine, pine, pine. Other regions might use other species. Cedar and redwood are of course very resistant to weather. Locust and white oak also, but they're very hard and would be a pain to nail.

But if you have any other possible use for the poplar, grab it at that price. Around here it costs 30 cents and up per board foot just for the sawing, if you supply the logs. You're paying 15 cents a board foot and didn't even supply the logs.

As was said, poplar is great for interior projects, especially ones that will be painted. Poplar isn't the prettiest of woods with it's irregular greenish coloration, but it machines beautifully and takes paint well.

 

[XmasTreeGrower]

Motor

I'll disagree with the other posters on this. Here in western North Carolina poplar is used frequently for siding exactly as you described. The old timers around here claim that it hardens very well over time and wears like iron. In fact I used it three years ago to re-side my house.

I left it natural grain, and just re-seal it with some regular tinited UV sealant every couple of years. It has shown no tendency to rot, or any other unusual habits.

You do have to deal with a couple of quirks while working it however. It does have a tendency to split at the ends if you nail it too close to the edge. Give yourself 1 1/2 inches room, and it will be fine. Also look for pieces that have a purplish "heart grain" running through them. They will split over time as well. A nail gun is a real time saver, and helps curtail the splitting tendencies as well.

Here's a picture when I was in the middle of the re-siding before any finish was applied. I personally find the grain patterns more interesting than pine.

Thanks
Bill

 

[XmasTreeGrower]

Motor

Here's a picture of the siding with a simple coat of clear UV sealer on it, to give a better idea of what the final product looks like.

Thanks
Bill

 

[XmasTreeGrower]

Motor

One final shot of the house three years later with a slight wood grain tint I put on the last year. Still holiding up strong.

Ignore the toys (uh, excuse me, I mean my "essential tools, honey")in the foreground, the house is in the background.

Thanks
Bill

 

[XmasTreeGrower]

Motor

One more comment on the longevity of poplar siding. Here is a shot of the original homesteading cabin on my property built in the late 1860s and occupied until 1969. I still use this building today to store my lumber.

The siding is rock hard poplar, about 3/4" thick.

Thanks
Bill

 

[DocHeb]

I'm not contradicting your post, but your "poplar" is a different color, different heartwood/sapwood relationship, and much more knotty than any "poplar" I've seen around here. I suspect there may be some regional differences in different species that are called "Poplar."

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Bill -

There's a good expression that is about to serve me well - "Make sure your words are sweet - you might have to eat them".

I've been doing some investigating, and while I'm still not 100% sure that all polars are created equal when it comes to suitability for siding, there's a very good chance that just about any "yellow poplar", (Liriodendron tulipifera, which evidently includes tulip poplar, tulip tree, tulip magnolia, whitewood, and maybe just about anything else commonly called poplar, including maybe basswood or "popple wood"), makes excellent siding.

In fact, there was a study done by the US Forest Service comparing 9 different woods applied in a variety of configurations and finishes, in which yellow poplar came out as the clear (well, maybe some knots) winner.

US Forest Service siding test

And here is a link to the University of Connecticut Horticultural Department that describes among other things the range of yellow poplar in the eastern US. Click on "map" to see a map of the range. It is bounded by lower Michigan and Alabama on the west, and Connecticut and northern Florida on the east.

Univ. of CT - Yellow Poplar

Finally, here's a link to a discussion on Woodweb in which a distinction is made between yellow poplar, which the author claims is good for siding, and "aspen poplar" which the author claims is very bad for siding. Adding to the confusion is the author's statement that aspen poplar is "sometimes just called poplar up north". There's some extraneous discussion about sawing siding before poplar is discussed - do and "edit/find on this page" for "poplar" and then scroll down until someone says "Did I hear you say "poplar siding"? I always felt this wood deteriorated too fast outdoors, even with proper coats of varathane/varnish. Have you had success with poplar? What did you use to finish coat?"

Interesting reading, but after taking everything in there is still some confusion in my mind about whether or not we're are all talking about the same thing.

Woodweb discussion of poplar siding

In my defense, I saw lots of references to the suitability of cedar, redwood, white pine and white oak as well, but it does look as if certain types of poplar might have them all beat hands down.

Hope this all helps to get a handle on this.