Poor man Hydraulic (almost) Top Link - "Hydraulink"

[fried1765]

I do not have rear remotes, and even if I did, I might not spend the money for a hydraulic top link.
The "Hydraulink" may be just the ticket for me!
I need to be able to adjust the tilt/cutting angle of my 3pt. forks/rear blade/box blade/tiller/bush hog etc. from the tractor seat.
The "Hydraulink" seems like a reasonable solution, at a very reasonable cost.
It is available in both CAT l and CAT ll versions.
If you put "Hydraulink" in Google, you will see several U-Tube videos available.
There are reviews posted, on the Northern Tool website.
I just stumbled on the CAT ll version being CLOSED OUT at Agri Supply for $134.88, which is a super price.
A CAT ll model will work on a CAT l tractor. The only downside seems to be that the CAT ll model weighs 26 lbs., while the CAT l weighs in at 15 lbs. The CAT l at Northern is $249.99, and the CAT ll version is $299.99.
I will bush the 1" ends on the CAT ll down to 3/4" for CAT l.
The CAT ll is going to be best for me also, because I have the "Pats Easy Change" system, and it requires the greater top link length of the CAT ll model.
The "Hydraulink" has been around for a good while, and is apparently made in New Zealand.
I am away from my tractor for the Winter, but have ordered the "Hydraulink" from Agri Supply, and will try it out in the Spring.

 

[jeff9366]

HydrauLinks were originally US produced.

Now produced in "far East", unless things have changed recently. Fit/finish less good. Work equally well.

Good for rear blade / box blade / tiller / light bush hog etc. (May not lift tail wheel of a heavy Bush Hog.)
Not sure about Three Point Hitch forks.

Not good for Tandem Disc Harrows nor turning plows, which require a rigid Top Link.

 

[ovrszd]

Understand the CAT II ends are larger and bulkier. I'm not just talking about the inside diameter, which you already know you have to deal with. I'm talking about the outter size of each end. Make sure your tractor has enough space around the top link pin to accommodate this larger end.

Post pics and comments next Spring when you start using it.

 

[fried1765]

Understand the CAT II ends are larger and bulkier. I'm not just talking about the inside diameter, which you already know you have to deal with. I'm talking about the outter size of each end. Make sure your tractor has enough space around the top link pin to accommodate this larger end.

Post pics and comments next Spring when you start using it.

Oops ....did not consider the larger end size!
If need be, I think I can just cut the CAT ll ends off, and weld on CAT l ball ends.
Posting pictures on this site?
I find that VERY difficult!

 

[ovrszd]

Posting Pictures:

Click on "Go Advanced".
Click on the "Blue A" at the far left end of the top icon bar above.
PLACE YOUR CURSOR WHERE YOU WANT THE PIC TO APPEAR.
Click on the square picture with black dots in the corners, second row of icons above, sixth from the right. If you put your pointer on that icon it will say "Insert Image".
Follow the directions. You have a choice of using "computer" or "Url". I use computer. Don't forget to click on "upload file" after you have selected your pic.
Double left click on the picture. A menu box will appear on the screen. Choose a size. I use "full size".
The pic should now appear in whatever size you have selected.
Click "submit reply".

You'll have a pic such as this one.

 

[fried1765]

Posting Pictures:

Click on "Go Advanced".
Click on the "Blue A" at the far left end of the top icon bar above.
PLACE YOUR CURSOR WHERE YOU WANT THE PIC TO APPEAR.
Click on the square picture with black dots in the corners, second row of icons above, sixth from the right. If you put your pointer on that icon it will say "Insert Image".
Follow the directions. You have a choice of using "computer" or "Url". I use computer. Don't forget to click on "upload file" after you have selected your pic.
Double left click on the picture. A menu box will appear on the screen. Choose a size. I use "full size".
The pic should now appear in whatever size you have selected.
Click "submit reply".

You'll have a pic such as this one.



View attachment 495469

Nice picture!
Perhaps I will give it a try with my newly refurbished 1920, or my also newly refurbished 3400TLB.
Thank you for the information on how to do it!

 

[s219]

I do not have rear remotes, and even if I did, I might not spend the money for a hydraulic top link.
The "Hydraulink" may be just the ticket for me!
I need to be able to adjust the tilt/cutting angle of my 3pt. forks/rear blade/box blade/tiller/bush hog etc. from the tractor seat.
The "Hydraulink" seems like a reasonable solution, at a very reasonable cost.
It is available in both CAT l and CAT ll versions.
If you put "Hydraulink" in Google, you will see several U-Tube videos available.
There are reviews posted, on the Northern Tool website.
I just stumbled on the CAT ll version being CLOSED OUT at Agri Supply for $134.88, which is a super price.
A CAT ll model will work on a CAT l tractor. The only downside seems to be that the CAT ll model weighs 26 lbs., while the CAT l weighs in at 15 lbs. The CAT l at Northern is $249.99, and the CAT ll version is $299.99.
I will bush the 1" ends on the CAT ll down to 3/4" for CAT l.
The CAT ll is going to be best for me also, because I have the "Pats Easy Change" system, and it requires the greater top link length of the CAT ll model.
The "Hydraulink" has been around for a good while, and is apparently made in New Zealand.
I am away from my tractor for the Winter, but have ordered the "Hydraulink" from Agri Supply, and will try it out in the Spring.

I think the Hydraulink is fine when you consider it to be a new/different type of *manually* adjustable top-link, but that's not even close to the utility/capability of a true hydraulic top link. On many large tractors, you can't reach the top link whether it's screw type or Hydraulink, so it's not going to help a bit there. That was the main reason I wanted/needed a hydraulic top link on my second tractor.

The real cost in having a hydraulic top link is usually the hydraulic valves and plumbing. But if you already have that stuff, you can put together a hydraulic top link on a budget. I paid $200 for my hydraulic top link and another $50 for custom hoses.

 

[Rustyiron]

Thanks for the pic lesson Richard, I've been doing another way and you have to "click" on it to view it in a decent size.
yeah!

 

[jmc]

If you missed it, here's a thread by someone within the company, maybe the inventor:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/174498-hydraulink-self-contained-air-over.html

 

[fried1765]

I think the Hydraulink is fine when you consider it to be a new/different type of *manually* adjustable top-link, but that's not even close to the utility/capability of a true hydraulic top link. On many large tractors, you can't reach the top link whether it's screw type or Hydraulink, so it's not going to help a bit there. That was the main reason I wanted/needed a hydraulic top link on my second tractor.

The real cost in having a hydraulic top link is usually the hydraulic valves and plumbing. But if you already have that stuff, you can put together a hydraulic top link on a budget. I paid $200 for my hydraulic top link and another $50 for custom hoses.

All of what you say may be true!
I do not have a "large tractor"
As I pointed out, I DO NOT have any "valves and plumbing" available at the rear of the tractor (Ford 1920).
My total cost for hydraulic plumbing, and a true hydraulic top link would likely be in excess of $800.
I do believe that I can easily reach the "Hydraulink" adjusting valve without getting off my tractor.
As Richard has pointed out, the CAT ll ends may not fit my CAT l tractor, but I can fix that with a welder, and two CAT l replacement ends.
My tractors are toys for me, so I do not need all sorts of wiz bang stuff.
I like things that will accomplish what I want, yet in the simplest manner possible.
If the "Hydraulink" does not work out, I am only down $155.
In my earlier years I might have "spilled" more than that!