Pole barn/vapor barrier/insulation???

[Fuddy1952]

I have a horse stable, after waiting over a year a contractor friend & I are going to put in a tack room. 12ftx12ft, when build 3 years ago that construction company I had them smooth finish floor for that area. Today I'm working on cleaning up, still a few hours to go. I stopped by Lowes, paid for all materials which they'll deliver.
Question is contractor didn't mention vapor barrier but I have rolls of heavy plastic left over from floor concrete. Shouldn't I staple that up and should it go against walls now? Just two outside walls. Everything will be 16" centers, R19 insulation walls and R30 ceiling.
Room will be 12x12x8, osb walls & ceiling (2×8s doubled for ceiling), attic steps with trap door. One 4ft wide walk in door.
I wanted seal off correlations so he suggested hydraulic cement pictured.
Thanks about vapor barrier & any other thoughts!

 

[Have tractor did travel]

Fuddy - (Below does NOT apply to Florida or Texas locations - check with your local permitting office with the county.) You should NOT put up plastic sheeting now. Here's why. As warm air makes it's way through the wall insulation, that warm air gets cooler. Cooler air cannot hold moisture as well as warm air (it's relative humidity drops). That moisture released into the insulation. If you put up a vapor barrier next to the metal roofing/siding, that moisture will be restricted in evaporating.
In order to stop moisture from entering the insulation envelope, a vapor barrier is placed on the surface closest to the heated side of the wall.

Regarding the Hydraulic Cement for "correlations". I don't know about using that cement in the picture where shown, for the joint between the wall and the footer. Why not use a good polyurethane caulk - caulk is designed to be used at joints to keep air, bugs, etc. from entering. If you have a water entry problem, go outside to fix that.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

Whoops - as air gets colder, it's relative humidity increases. I said it backwards.

 

[hslogger]

Maybe I missed something.... I built a free standing harness room in my barn... It has a concrete floor. I put black plastic down Under the concrete. This room has never sweated nor pulled moisture up through the slab. The walls are just plain insulation, with paper on once side. Walls are plywood inside and outside. Never a problem and keep it temperature friendly to the leather with a 100 watt light bulb......

 

[Fuddy1952]

Fuddy - (Below does NOT apply to Florida or Texas locations - check with your local permitting office with the county.) You should NOT put up plastic sheeting now. Here's why. As warm air makes it's way through the wall insulation, that warm air gets cooler. Cooler air cannot hold moisture as well as warm air (it's relative humidity drops). That moisture released into the insulation. If you put up a vapor barrier next to the metal roofing/siding, that moisture will be restricted in evaporating.
In order to stop moisture from entering the insulation envelope, a vapor barrier is placed on the surface closest to the heated side of the wall.

Regarding the Hydraulic Cement for "correlations". I don't know about using that cement in the picture where shown, for the joint between the wall and the footer. Why not use a good polyurethane caulk - caulk is designed to be used at joints to keep air, bugs, etc. from entering. If you have a water entry problem, go outside to fix that.

Thanks...that answers vapor barrier.
No...building is water tight, no problem. I just mentioned my concern about possibility of mice/bugs. I want to seal off since it will be hidden. Although I've never had rodents, horse grain, treats in metal containers and we have a mouser cat. I just want the tack room kept clean as possible.

 

[Fuddy1952]

The concrete floor stays dry. Everything gets really dusty & cobwebs everywhere though. Since I have rolls of plastic I'll put it up last...then OSB walls.
I just thought maybe I'll extra brace for saddle racks.

 

[ponytug]

I would use the hydraulic cement against rodents inside and leave the outside.

I would also insulate all four walls, and ceiling. It will help the tack not get condensation on it as the temperature changes.

Do you have any plans to ventilate the tack room or will all the tack be dry when it goes in? (I am not counting the window which would get rained upon and in.)
Remember mice can get through a 1/4" crack, so this room is one to get extra carefully built. Don't forget the door jamb clearance at both ends, as well as the door itself. (Nothing that you would do anything else!)

I would also get in the habit of closing the door at all times; mice.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Fuddy1952]

I would use the hydraulic cement against rodents inside and leave the outside.
-yes, cement just inside down each corregation opening. I was showing outside how it goes to a plate-

I would also insulate all four walls, and ceiling. It will help the tack not get condensation on it as the temperature changes.
-yes, R19 all walls, R30 ceiling-

Do you have any plans to ventilate the tack room or will all the tack be dry when it goes in? (I am not counting the window which would get rained upon and in.)
-windows are the argon filled good ones and even under a large overhang so never get wet. I'll put a small dehumidifier in there. I use a room in garage close by now with a dehumidifier which works well-
Remember mice can get through a 1/4" crack, so this room is one to get extra carefully built. Don't forget the door jamb clearance at both ends, as well as the door itself. (Nothing that you would do anything else!)

I would also get in the habit of closing the door at all times; mice. -yes, closed-

All the best, -all the best to you also-

 

[ponytug]

+1 on the dehumidifier.

FWIW: The interior of our tack room is white painted t&g plywood. It adds to the strength/rigidity of the walls, and helps to keep insects and vermin out. The door latches top and bottom to keep the gap less than an 1/8". We have a mix of built in and free standing saddle racks. I mildly prefer the wood built ins as they don't corrode from sweat deep in saddle blankets. If I had it to do over, I would use the collapsible fold down racks that use a hook and eye. Most of the ones that is see now are an inverted "T" shape, but I prefer ones that are made as an inverted "V" (^) shaped.

I would also look at hinged/fold out/swing out blanket racks. It makes so easy to get right blanket quickly, with no fuss, in minimal space.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Have tractor did travel]

The concrete floor stays dry. Everything gets really dusty & cobwebs everywhere though. Since I have rolls of plastic I'll put it up last...then OSB walls.
I just thought maybe I'll extra brace for saddle racks.

Fuddy - Since you are applying the plastic, be sure you use insulation with NO vapor barrier. What I did with my 1918 farm house is use insulation (no vapor barrier), then sheet rock, and then 2 coats of shellac based sealer-primer. If i didn't think that would take care of it, I'd then apply a oil based paint, but I think I've done enough. I didn't want moisture settling into the sheetrock is reason for using the shellac.