pole barn question

[marjorie]

I am hoping someone can help me. I am the Executive Director of New Beginnings German Shepherd Rescue and we recently purchased a used 40 x 80 pole barn for our rescue. We are trying to get this moved to our land ( it is unassembled) but the person we purchased it from does not know the weight of the building, and we cannot get anyone to move it for us, without knowing the weight. Would anyone have any idea of the approximate weight of a 40 x 80 foot pole barn? it believe they said it was about 12-14 feet tall.

Our rescue is located in Holly Hill, South Carolina, and the pole barn is located in Greenville, SC. Would anyopne have any ideas on who we could contact, to get something like this moved? the beams are 40 feet!

Thanks for any help you can give us. The economy is so bad, and so many fur kids are losing their lives, because their families have lost their homes, and the pets end up in kill shelters. We want to help them get a new beginning....

Marjorie
Welcome to the home of New Beginnings Shepherd Rescue

 

[QRTRHRS]

I am hoping someone can help me. I am the Executive Director of New Beginnings German Shepherd Rescue and we recently purchased a used 40 x 80 pole barn for our rescue. We are trying to get this moved to our land ( it is unassembled) but the person we purchased it from does not know the weight of the building, and we cannot get anyone to move it for us, without knowing the weight. Would anyone have any idea of the approximate weight of a 40 x 80 foot pole barn? it believe they said it was about 12-14 feet tall.

Our rescue is located in Holly Hill, South Carolina, and the pole barn is located in Greenville, SC. Would anyopne have any ideas on who we could contact, to get something like this moved? the beams are 40 feet!

Thanks for any help you can give us. The economy is so bad, and so many fur kids are losing their lives, because their families have lost their homes, and the pets end up in kill shelters. We want to help them get a new beginning....

Marjorie
Welcome to the home of New Beginnings Shepherd Rescue

Marjorie, if all of the barn materials are there (posts, purlins, tin, etc., more than likely, it may not all go on one trip and may take perhaps three trips or more to move it. Besides the weight issues, pole barn materials are unwieldy so truck space is wasted.

I would contact some of the local barn builders that have there own large equipment. They may have some slack time and will already be experianced with such an endeavor.

I know from experiance having worked in the field. The tin is easily damaged so don't go for cheap.

 

[marjorie]

Yes, the materials are all there. I sure hope it wont take so many trips- we are a 510c3, so we have a very limited budget The fellow who sold it to us said it could be moved on a 40 foot flatbed. I wanted to put it up for bid on uship.com as we cant find any flat bed truckers in the immediate area. Thanks for the idea of contacting local pole barn builders- hopefully there will be some in the area. I wouldnt have thought of that! I will go look now Thank you so much!

 

[QRTRHRS]

There is a very easy way to shore up pole barn headers. Some builders incorporate these and some do not.

Take some scrap 2x lumber about two feet long that matches your post width. Drill a series of holes to eliminate cracking. Place the wood against the post and against your header then screw or nail it fast.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Yes, the materials are all there. I sure hope it wont take so many trips- we are a 510c3, so we have a very limited budget The fellow who sold it to us said it could be moved on a 40 foot flatbed. I wanted to put it up for bid on uship.com as we cant find any flat bed truckers in the immediate area. Thanks for the idea of contacting local pole barn builders- hopefully there will be some in the area. I wouldnt have thought of that! I will go look now Thank you so much!

You are going to need a substantial piece of equipment, either an all terrain forklift or a truck with a crane to pick the material up as well as to unload it. Another option might be a local building mover. Plead your case. Perhaps someone may give you a break.

 

[marjorie]

The person we purchased it from has a fork lift, and he said he will help load the flatbed. He said it should fit on a 40 foot flatbed. We will rent a forklift to unload it. We are hoping the local police and fire departments will help us out, as the Rescue's President is married to a firefighter. Since we are a 501c3 pending organization, whatever is donated to us is tax deductible, so perhaps someone will cut us a break- I hope....

Will check to see if there are any building movers i the area, as well. Thanks so much for your suggestions! I really appreciate them! We are a bit panicked
We do have people in our organization who used to drive trucks, but we cant even find just a truck to rent, in the area.

 

[timswi]

I've built a couple of pole buildings and there wasn't a carrage bolt in any of them. If you scab between the purlins and put a 2x6 down each pole (3ft or so) on the inside, the header is supported just fine...16 penny nails everywhere holds the header. I use 8 foot on center 6x6 poles and trusses on 24" centers. I get heavy snow loads here too..never had a problem. The first building I did is over 15 yrs old and is still like new.

One suggestion though..Box the header with a 2x6 across the top for lateral support.

 

[Rodmo1]

I just got done putting up the first header board. Bought 3.5" 5/8 lag bolts and put 2 in each post combined with several 20 penny nails. should not be any reason for concern anymore. I just did not like the idea of the trusses being supported by nails.
My plans told me to join the header boards both inside and out on the same post. This also makes me nervous. No big deal though...they gave me enough extra lumber that I can stagger the seams.
Overall I am not very impressed with the design of the garage however I can modify it with little added expense to make it much beefier.
One more question though...While nailing on wall girts and headers my one wall seems to have come about an inch out of plumb over 8'. I have it ratcheted back into place with quite a bit of force. I am wondering if it is acceptable to use the trusses to maintain plumb. This would put a good bit of stretching force on the trusses but I see no other way of correction.

Rod M.

 

[timswi]

Pull the posts back to plumb and put the trusses on. The posts will relax in the way they moved out of plumb...It's much better to do all of this as quickly as possible so that everyting finds it's place...You'll be fine!!! Pole buildings move a litte (not 8") but they do move around a bit. Once the sheating is on that helps stabilize things.
Good luck!!!

 

[orangebluegreen]

Whew Patric, you sound like a politician, lots of contradictory talk that makes something simple sound complicated. Glad they don't allow scientists to actually build anything.

 

[patrick_g]

Whew Patric, you sound like a politician, lots of contradictory talk that makes something simple sound complicated. Glad they don't allow scientists to actually build anything.

I have been accused of being lots of things but a politician is something new.

I confess to being a scientist and engineer and I also confess to having designed a lot of stuff that got built and a lot of other stuff that I built myself quite successfully. I suppose the most obvious fault in many of my projects is a little over doing it. When I'm not sure how much is enough I tend to be sure to make it OBVIOUSLY MORE THAN ENOUGH so I don't have to be concerned.

As regards to "contradictory talk", you'll have to point out the contradictory part, I couldn't find it. I really didn't use many "hard" words explaining how to correctly predrill for a lag screw. Feel free to PM me about where I was contradictory, you didn't understand, or you think I am wrong and I will give your thoughts careful consideration before any reply. I'd just as soon not have that conversation in the middle of this thread.

Pat

 

[timswi]

I have been accused of being lots of things but a politician is something new.

I confess to being a scientist and engineer and I also confess to having designed a lot of stuff that got built and a lot of other stuff that I built myself quite successfully. I suppose the most obvious fault in many of my projects is a little over doing it. When I'm not sure how much is enough I tend to be sure to make it OBVIOUSLY MORE THAN ENOUGH so I don't have to be concerned.

As regards to "contradictory talk", you'll have to point out the contradictory part, I couldn't find it. I really didn't use many "hard" words explaining how to correctly predrill for a lag screw. Feel free to PM me about where I was contradictory, you didn't understand, or you think I am wrong and I will give your thoughts careful consideration before any reply. I'd just as soon not have that conversation in the middle of this thread.

Pat

I think that he was kidding...You do have some five dollar words in there and your literary talents are outstanding (and I'm not kidding, I'm impressed)

 

[patrick_g]

I think that he was kidding

Obviously, I didn't but... it wouldn't be the first time the recipient didn't take the message as the sender intended it. I hope I was wrong and that you are right.

The intent of my somewhat detailed comments regarding correctly installing a lag screw was to communicate the engineering facts which are not universally shared or understood by all lag users. There was a time when I was abysmally ignorant regarding their proper use (thought the harder it was to put them in the better they held) but now know better because someone took the time to explain it to me. I was trying to pass on the favor.

Thanks for your kind comments. Nothing magic about my writing, just lots of practice at the hands of very particular task masters.

Pat