Pole Barn Guesstimate?

[sourwood]

Being a cheap redneck in WNC, I just finished a 40x72x13 pole shed for about $7500.00 including labor. Depending on where you are in SC, a little shopping can make a big difference.
Tin-#2 because of a color variation was$1.50 a linear ft for 3 ft wide.
40 foot scissor trusses were $90.00 ea delivered
Bought some huge telephone poles for a buck a foot, used at corners and in the middle with treated 6x6 for balance-12ft oc.
Quotes on labor were $7500 down to $2200.
Bought the lumber from a lumber yard not a box store.
Treated lumber was also done by a semi local co.supplying same lumber yard. Price about $5 each cheaper on 6x6 at lumberyard and $1 to $4 a board cheaper on other pieces than box store.
Bought a good truck load of "cull" lumber from the local building supply for $400. Some had splits on end, most was just like what he normally sells.
With the economy tanked If I bought culls from him now,they would be total junk.( I checked.)
Found some used chicken house tin-HEAVY gauge, not rusty- 21 foot long,3 foot wide for $10 a sheet. Used that for covering and siding a 10 foot wide lean to on each side. Used the balance of the telephone poles for post but had to buy one side of treated 6x6s. Cost on each lean to, about $750 each additional after using materials left over from the main bldg. including labor. Now I have a 60 by 72 pole barn enclosed on 2 long sides with each end open for about $9000 including labor. As you say,my tractors have not complained yet about a red clay floor.
There was no bldg permit required here as it was solely for agricultural use.
Plan on enclosing a 24x28 two floor shop on one end this winter. have all the material except joists.
I tip my hat to LD1 for being more frugal than I was.You did a heck of a job.
Again it makes a difference where you shop. Stay away from the box store if you can. If your permit allows, and you are picky and do not get hung up on semantics, you can save some money.
By the way the Sourwood honey crop is excellent this year!

 

[stuk4x4]

I have built buildings both ways, Wood and Metal. If I were building a out building of this size I would use metal trusses and skin it with tin, mount the trusses on some 2" Sched 40 pipe, I also would use Bi-Fold doors. As far as windows go if you plan to store stuff only then I would go with maybe 2 in the back and thats it. also have you thought about puting a circulation fan in? I believe that I would concrete the floor now, as you plan to build a work shop later you still may need to work on stuff before it gets built, and it is always nice to work on a clean surface rather than roll around on a dirt floor!!! This of course is just how I would go about it. Thanks for letting me share my thoughts.
Walt

 

[rtimgray]

I am building a 16x24 gambrel roof barn with an attached 12x24 deck on the second floor. All of the framing materials, 2 man doors, 4 small windows, a garage door, nails, screws, electrical panel and some odds and ends were about $4,000 - about $1,000 of that was for the deck material. Metal for covering is will be about $2,000. I poured the concrete floor for the 16x24 portion and it ended up being 7.5 yards - about $700.

I really like the gambrel roof - however, I did not use trusses. I used 2x10s for the floor joists and built the 2nd floor, then ran a ridge board down the center of the barn and built the 1/2 gambrel rafters and attached them. The ridge board is temporary supported by 2x4s while framing, but I'll add collar ties later and remove the supports so it will be all open.

This is my first gambrel roof and I have been surprised how easy it actually is to frame. I had to add an intersection to the roof because the walkout for the deck is on the 24' side (parallel to the ridge), so there is a giant (relatively) gambrel dormer on the side of the barn.

I think you can do the job in your budget, but it will be tight.

Good luck and take care.

 

[tractorshopper]

I am building a 16x24 gambrel roof barn with an attached 12x24 deck on the second floor. All of the framing materials, 2 man doors, 4 small windows, a garage door, nails, screws, electrical panel and some odds and ends were about $4,000 - about $1,000 of that was for the deck material. Metal for covering is will be about $2,000. I poured the concrete floor for the 16x24 portion and it ended up being 7.5 yards - about $700.

I really like the gambrel roof - however, I did not use trusses. I used 2x10s for the floor joists and built the 2nd floor, then ran a ridge board down the center of the barn and built the 1/2 gambrel rafters and attached them. The ridge board is temporary supported by 2x4s while framing, but I'll add collar ties later and remove the supports so it will be all open.

This is my first gambrel roof and I have been surprised how easy it actually is to frame. I had to add an intersection to the roof because the walkout for the deck is on the 24' side (parallel to the ridge), so there is a giant (relatively) gambrel dormer on the side of the barn.

I think you can do the job in your budget, but it will be tight.

Good luck and take care.

rtimgray - Sounds great! I'd love to see some pictures. Might help me a lot. I'm having difficulty arranging the stairs to the loft. I'd like them to be at one end on the 16' wall, but they might pop up into the short side of the loft area. Also, I didn't think about building the loft floor first, then come back and build the rafters to a header. Great idea. I was thinking I'd build the whole rafter units on the ground then get friends to help me set them. I like your idea better. :thumbsup:

 

[roamerr]

$7500 materials if you do it yourself.

$16000 if purchased turn key.

My Guess...

 

[rtimgray]

rtimgray - Sounds great! I'd love to see some pictures. Might help me a lot. I'm having difficulty arranging the stairs to the loft. I'd like them to be at one end on the 16' wall, but they might pop up into the short side of the loft area. Also, I didn't think about building the loft floor first, then come back and build the rafters to a header. Great idea. I was thinking I'd build the whole rafter units on the ground then get friends to help me set them. I like your idea better. :thumbsup:

I put the stairs in an "L" shape in the corner. I made them pretty narrow (30") and pretty steep, but it's more a utility structure than a luxury structure anyway. I can use the area underneath for storage.

I'm going to take some pictures and I can post them in the next few days. Whenever I build two-story structures, I've always found it easier to put down the second floor and then build on top; then again, I've not used trusses for anything either.

 

[rtimgray]

Here's a couple of pictures I took the other day. It has been raining (which we needed anyway), so you can see the couple of low spots in my concrete pad. I had my nephew help me screed it off and that was his first time to work with it...it was a good lesson!

I've made a little for progress since then.

Good luck with your project.

 

[tractorshopper]

rtimgray - That's going to be one beautiful building. I was wondering how you were going to access the deck. That's a nice touch with the turn-out for it. Also, nice touch on the additional entry pad. I wouldn't have thought of that either.

If you don't mind, keep the pictures coming. Those are great and helped me already. Can you give me the angles you used on the rafters? They look good for the building with the extra height and look like you'll have plenty of headroom upstairs since you raised it a little extra. Also how tall is the front door opening? I may do something similar, but use the extra height on the base floor for clearance for the tractor if necessary and a little less in the loft.

 

[CharlieS]

Before getting any plans carved in stone, what do local codes call for? you can overbuild, but you cant underbuild.
Now on to my area of expertise: (retired master electrician) per NEC though local codes may vary, theres 3 basic choices for getting power to an outbuilding. A single feeder from an existing service, (house panel for example)20 amp 120 volt can be run to provide minimal lighting and an outlet or two. a 100 amp service can be supplied either from an adequately sized existing service or new metered service can be built.
Sub-services are required to be 60+ amps but must adhire to the six handle rule.
My thinking is plan for the future. Even at a greater initial cost, its cheaper to provide for future use now, than have to tear out and replace later on. Power tools? welder? heat? AC? all those need to be taken into consideration during the planning stage.

 

[tractorshopper]

Charlie,

Not sure exactly. We're getting ready to have our house built on the property and I'm going to build this barn myself. I used to work for a builder and understand building. However, I don't have much of a clue about electrical other than 110 runs everything I have or use and I can throw the breaker and change light fixtures or outlets myself and can pull wire to where I want it. I don't have a welder or the skills to use one. I'm going to have the electrician doing the house work set me up for the run to the barn. I won't touch anything at the panel. For all I know he may tell me the barn needs it's own panel.