Please critique the weld quality (photos enclosed)

[efox]

Done many of these. Worst thing about that slobber job is that is is unknown and unknowable strength. Probably needn't be completely removed but can be ground out and rewelded one side at a time. Best if done uphill with 7018 or similar.
What I see moreover, is that both hinges are turned the same direction, allowing the gate to be lifted off the hinges. If only one was reversed though it would put all the thrust on one hinge.
One could be removed and reverse the weldment to the other post allowing a tab to be welded above the hinge.
Or, remove both, put the zerk half on the post side and a tab above one or the other to prevent lifting the gate.

 

[Bob Rooks]

FYI - All welders in Texas must be certified.
Those welds represent the best in amateur and bad practice. Bad prep/dirty, and low heat/amps. Probably using 6011 "farmer's rod" or a 110 volt flux core welder.
At this point it's too late to cut your losses. Accept it as-is and hire a professional welder to redo it if you choose.

 

[frcnLS]

Do they normally charge extra to weld the entire hinge?

 

[sea2summit]

View attachment 767278
Do they normally charge extra to weld the entire hinge?

Show's how little you know, that's on purpose so water can drain

 

[panamaguy]

I am having fencing/gates installed. Steel material that is/was powder coated.

The photos are for hinge welds for heavy gates. 6x6 steel posts and steel gates to cover a 16 foot opening.

Before approving the job, I'd like to make sure the weld quality is sufficient for long term reliable use. Except I do not know how to evaluate the quality of a weld. Does this work look right to you?

Not trying to be nasty but as a welder the last 50 years as a living they are very bad. Did you weld them up hand from bottom to top which is the correct way. You might want to hire someone if you want them to last. Those welds need to be ground out as there is just no going over them. And the rod used should be E7018

 

[Tony H]

Obviously they did not grind off the powder coat before starting. They look like my 'snot welds' when trying to work thru nasty rusted exhaust systems. Otherwise, my welds are much flatter and are in 'V' patterns My guess is that about 50% of those beads have penetrated properly. I wouldn't be satisfied with that.
I just read thru more Posts..good I'm glad you are getting satisfaction. We hope the second time around works out.

 

[Jallcorn]

I am having fencing/gates installed. Steel material that is/was powder coated.

The photos are for hinge welds for heavy gates. 6x6 steel posts and steel gates to cover a 16 foot opening.

Before approving the job, I'd like to make sure the weld quality is sufficient for long term reliable use. Except I do not know how to evaluate the quality of a weld. Does this work look right to you?

I construct hand-forged ornamental ironwork (gates, fences, railings, staircases, furniture, etc. etc.) for discriminating clients and charge accordingly. These welds are completely unsatisfactory by any standard and were attempted by someone who does NOT know how to weld!

They could be salvaged by grinding/cutting out the welds one at a time and re-welding (pre-heat if the weather is cold). I would probably use a root pass and a weld on each side of the root, probably vertical up for better penetration using either stick or flux-core wire. This is mild steel and it's not rocket science!

 

[Rockbadchild]

Not trying to be nasty but as a welder the last 50 years as a living they are very bad. Did you weld them up hand from bottom to top which is the correct way. You might want to hire someone if you want them to last. Those welds need to be ground out as there is just no going over them. And the rod used should be E7018

Op did not weld that popcorn

 

[jbmcc1]

A friend calls this 'Structural Slag Welding'.

 

[lilranch2001]

I sure hope the OP gets satisfaction…..