Planting grass on fill area

[Egon]

Soil test and then add proper ingredients plus seed. Then go over it a few times with a lawnmower that has detaching springs on the blades that scratch up and loosen the surface to spread everything more evenly.

 

[KennyG]

I’d make sure the top inch is somewhat loose and not compacted and just seed it. I’ve had various luck covering with straw afterwards. Sometimes I think that introduces weed seed.

My experience is that straw works great, but hay brings in weeds. If you have cheap access to top soil, I would add a couple of inches, lightly till, seed and then roll. Then water, water, water.

 

[deezler]

@rScotty ands @deezler are making a strong case for some nice topsoil. I have a material yard right next door, maybe will go that route. I didn't pay a dime for fill dirt might as well spring for a little topsoil to make it nice.

Might as well. You really only need 2-3" of topsoil on top to get the grass started happy and healthy, too. Once it roots deeply through that, it won't care as much what the soil is (just my opinion/experience here in the sandy/clay mix of Michigan). I also tend to go with the generic "contractor-mix" cheap(er) stuff from tractor supply, it works great.

How about some pics of your new area, while we're chattin here?

 

[Borane4]

For 30x50 you might just lime it at 1000 lbs per acre (so for you, a 50lb bag) and throw 30lb/acre of annual rye all over it, or 1 lb for your piece. That will probably be faster and less expensive than a soil test. Or, do the above and take a soil sample for testing beforehand. Correct as needed when the results come back.

 

[jaxs]

Lawns established on the cheap look cheap until redone right. 2 or 3 inches of decent soil might sprout seed but plants need deeper soil to thrive. 6" deep is minimum. That;s close to 30 yards. By all means have soil tested and amend if required. The only reason I can see for covering surface with hay is to surpress seed germination and growth which doesn't sound right for this project. Tilling orgnic matter in before planting would be more benificial. I'm not familiar with sod for your area but St Augustine is best in N. Texas and can't be established from seed.

 

[KennyG]

Seed will sprout and grow through the straw. The straw cuts the moisture loss way down. It will decay and disappear in a year.

 

[RalphVa]

I am just wrapping up filling in a 30 x 50 foot spot that was too sloped to be usable, now it is nice and flat. Flat land on my knoll is at a premium so I wanted to make this a nice little spot to camp. My plan is to make is a nice grassy area. How important is adding topsoil to this area to successfully grow nice grass? The dirt is pretty red. Would a soil test and some lime/Fert get me started? I'm cheap.

Best is to put down seed protector mat. Can buy at Lowes/Home Depot. It retains moisture and keeps the seeds from being washed away. Use ground stakes to hold it down. At Lowes anyway, they're in the same area.

A little bit of compost sprinkled over it would help. Don't need much. Might be a tad early but maybe not in Chattanooga.

Straw will help some and cheaper but is not the best.

No fert. Lime would be okay.

 

[jaxs]

Seed will sprout and grow through the straw. The straw cuts the moisture loss way down. It will decay and disappear

Mulch is applied around transplants or seedlings to retain moisture and supress weeds. I've never heard a horticulturist reccomend applying mulch over newly planted seed.

 

[KennyG]

Mulch is applied around transplants or seedlings to retain moisture and supress weeds. I've never heard a horticulturist reccomend applying mulch over newly planted seed.

Around here, a thin (1 to 2 inch) layer of straw is commonly applied over seeded areas. When they do highway work, they typically hydroseed and then have a straw blower to cover it. If you do a quick internet search, you will find lots of articles recommending straw mulching.

 

[deezler]

Uh oh, this is getting expensive now!

Just to be safe, I would get 50 to 55 yards of a premium blend of 35% cultured peat moss, 25% organic compost, 40% virgin top soil. Rototill it exactly 7 times, wait one week, two more passes. Hydroseed a mixture of at least 5 grass seed varieties, hand seed 10% more bluegrass over that, and finish with a pinch of rye. Garnish is optional.

Water it with exactly 2L/sq meter per day, +/- 0.2%. If it's not sunny enough, consider bringing in some of those LED grow lights all the weed farms like to use. A simple array of those running off a portable generator is cheap insurance (premium gas only).

If you don't do all this, exactly as prescribed, your rural hilltop campsite is gonna look like ****, forever.