Pipe Fence Longevity

   / Pipe Fence Longevity #1  

Michael_S

Member
Joined
May 30, 2001
Messages
46
Location
North East Texas
Tractor
Kubota L3830
I'd like to build a 3 or 4 rail pipe fence across the front of my property. I want it to be very low or zero mantainence, so I was thinking about leaving it unpainted. It would also look more natural and blend in better with the trees. The rustic look.
One thing I was thinking about was using 6x6 treated posts and pipe rails. Would this work? Will an unpainted pipe fence stand the test of time, or will it rust and deteriorate away to nothing?

Thanks
 
   / Pipe Fence Longevity #2  
Morning Michael,

Grab the rug rats and go to The Fort Worth Zoo. Jump on the train to the Texas Wild exhibit. Inside the train turn around you'll see a split cedar post with pipe rail fence. I built it.

You can buy new black pipe two and three eighths for less than a buck a foot. It will last much longer than your wood posts, treated, cedar, or redwood. The downside on the black pipe is the rust will have to air cure for years before it's not a staining issue. Your wife might love your creative design but she'll cuss you back at least six generations everytime she washes the kid's clothes after they've been doing fence climbing one oh one or two oh two.

Galvanized costs about fifty to seventy percent more and like they've done in the Ft Worth Zoo, it can be stained a neutral earth tone to blend in just fine with the wood.

If you decide that's what you want to do let me know. The fence at the zoo was quite a project. Making the pipe and the wood one unit was an interesting challenge. My solution got me the job.

I have one caveat on the zoo fence. I did about half of it, inside the turn around and the northside of the stalls. There was a time factor and they brought in another crew to do the other sections. I didn't feel that crew and me had the same goals.
 
   / Pipe Fence Longevity
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Cool. The fence at the FTW zoo was my inspiration. They (maybe you) have painted the pipe a warm gray that matches the weathered cedar and blends in with the surrounding environment. It is almost invisible.
I've ask a couple of other fence builders about a fence of this type, and their eyes kinda glaze over and they start mumbling about me being crazy and asking why I would ever want something like that anyways.
Some people just can't think outside of the box.
I haven't been able to find a source for the cedar posts like are used at the zoo, that's why I was thinking 6 by treated.
The stain idea with the galvanized is also interesting. (wife likes it too, doesn't need another reason to cuss me).
I'd like to know more about the process of building something similar to the zoo.
Thanks for your input.
 
   / Pipe Fence Longevity #4  
Hayseed,
You can get the cedar posts at "Cedar Supply" in Carrollton. They have cedar everything and anything from posts, beams, decking etc. I believe they may have a couple of other stores in TX.
 
   / Pipe Fence Longevity #6  
The folks at Cedar Supply in Dallas (Carrollton ) are great to do business with. Their main store is in Sherman east on 82.
 
   / Pipe Fence Longevity #7  
W Harv,

[or anyone who might have a picture of this kind of fence...]

Would love to see a pic if you happen to have one relatively handy... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Pipe Fence Longevity #8  
That was a fun job.

A large commercial fence contractor called me to share a laugh. It seems the architect at the Ft Worth Zoo had come up with a fence made up with pipe rails and cedar posts. Wasn't that the funniest thing you'd ever heard?

I told him it was interesting and doable. We talked about it.

Then over the next couple of months a couple of times he called to talk about details on how I would do it. My advice to him was like my advice here, free, and probably worth just that.

Then he called and asked me if I could work it into my schedule. I couldn't. Well I couldn't until he came up with a number my wife decided put him in front of everyone else. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

What you need are your posts. You can go cedar, split style or dimensional. There are treated round posts and treated conventional ones. I once read, probably here, that most wood has a natural preservative in the bark and out layers. Where we get into trouble with wood decay comes when we eliminate it's natural protection.

I know for a fact Bois D Arc (horse apple tree) will not rot, ever. But I also know you have to work it green cause once it dries up it becomes harder than any bad girl's heart ever thought about.

Then you need your pipe. I recommend hot dip galvanized which means schedule forty and it ain't cheap. I've got an in and still pay a dollar fifty plus per foot for two and three eighths. The hot dip galvanized weathers to a much nicer patina if not stained. When stained it's texture adds personality that the galvanized lighter gauge stuff can't emulate.

Tools:

One good half inch drill. I have the Dewalt with the wobble trigger and the multiposition handle. You have to have at least that. Otherwise you're walking into a gunfight with a knife and in your skivvies.

A method to cut the pipe, portaband is my first choice. A quicksaw works good with a steel cutting blade. Chop saws work great too. But both of those options put out tons of sparks, not good around the kiddos nor dry terrain. Sawsalls work good if you've got tons of time and don't mind paying HD or Lowes' electric bill for the month with your blade purchases.

Your pipe can come in twenty one or twenty four foot lengths. Consider this when figuring out your spacing.

You're going to need a couple two and a half forstner or self feed bits for drilling the holes for your pipe to fit into the wood. I say two because one tool that's critical is begging for trouble.

And you're going to need Gorilla Glue. If you buy it in the small quanities like they have at the box stores it's priced like real diamond jewelery. If I recall right it was something like seven bucks for two ounces there. I used like a gallon on my part of the Zoo project. I bought it at Woodcraft in Carrollton for something like thirty dollars a quart.

If you noticed the Zoo has few straight lines. That meant each post had to be customed drilled not only for the vertical spacing but also for the angles to the next post. That made it interesting.

Let's pretend you want to have eight foot centers and you buy the twenty four foot lengths of pipe. You drill your post holes on eight foot centers.

Let's say you run a straight line on level ground. Set up the posts to run through a drill press making your holes.

Let's say you're starting at an end. You put that post in with concrete or if you're so inclined tamped in with dirt. Put the next post in it's hole. Have a mister like your wife uses on her plants. Not hers, get your own. You'll be happier in the long run, guaranteed.

Spray your holes with water. You want damp to wet. Wet is better. Gorilla glue sets up with moisture being the activator.

Take your lowest rail and squeeze out the glue on the pipe. I used a bead that ran around the pipe. It's like putting on honey. Slide the honey'd end into the end post. Honey the other end and put it into the next post. Not far, you've got three more rails to install. Repeat until you've got your four rails up. Plumb up your post number two and set it for height. Concrete it in.

Repeat as required until your fence is in.

I've been accused of thinking out of the box many times. I wouldn't have it any other way.

I did a cursory check and feel I need to add some things.

Don't try to use your pipe in long lengths and slide it through the posts. It won't work, tried it a couple of ways and ended up doing a section at a time.

In about fifteen minutes on a normal day the Gorilla glue will foam up like insulation stuff. When it hardens you can cut and peel it back and it's a filler. Neater'n heck.

Staining the galvanized can be a trick. If you're painting Kilz primer works great. If it's a stain I recommend a vinegar bath and some exposure to the elements.

There are few projects one can enjoy as much doing and then appreciating afterwards more than a well made fence.
 
   / Pipe Fence Longevity
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Sounds like it was a fun job.
One last question.
I am familiar with Gorilla Glue, used it on several other projects.
Is there any need to leave every third or fourth post unglued to allow for expansion and contraction?

Thanks for the great advice.
 
   / Pipe Fence Longevity #10  
Bill I've got a picture or two of the job on a floppy. I'll try to find it tomorrow if the rain comes in and gives me a break.

What was fun on this job besides the challenge of the fence was the architect wanting the gates between the stall area and the center display area to work all both ways. To close off the display area and the stall area from the train tracks. And to close off the rail road tracks when both gates were open for when the animals were moved from the display area to the stalls.
 

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