Pics of my "new" trailer

   / Pics of my "new" trailer #1  

dieselfuelonly

Gold Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2007
Messages
332
Location
Chapel Hill, North Carolina
Tractor
Yanmar YM1401D
I finally bought a trailer.

Its 82" wide, 16' long not including a 2' dovetail, has a metal deck (not one piece of wood on it to rot), pintle hitch, ramps that store under the deck, 8-lug, 16" wheels running standard 235/85/R16 E-rated truck tires that are in good shape, brakes on both axles, etc.

It needs a little wiring work here and there, I think the brake wiring came disconnected on the front axle, and I need to convert it over to the newer 7-pin "RV-Style" connector.

The mechanical thing it needs is I probably need to repack the bearings on the left rear hub, as it was running pretty hot. All of the others were cool to the touch. It looks like the seals may leaking a little bit on the rear axle so I'll probably repack both sides and inspect everything and get it all ready to go. I also need to bang the ramp storage slots back into shape, they are a little bent which lead to one of the ramps being pretty hard to pull out.

I'm not sure how much its rated for, I cannot find any tags on it that state the weight rating. However, I'm sure its a lot, its a really nice trailer.

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   / Pics of my "new" trailer #2  
Nice.

Would the title tell you the weight rating ?
 
   / Pics of my "new" trailer #3  
With 8 lug rims that should be a 14K trailer. 7,000# axles have 8 lug wheels. Two things I noted with it. If the seals are leaking you need to replace the brake pads if there is any grease in any of the brake drums. If you do not they will be very grabby. I also would be worried about how the ramps just lay on the back to load. A tire spinning will pull them right off the trailer and then you will end up with a bent oil pan or worse on the equipment you are loading. We had a guy one county over get killed last fall loading a tractor for the state fair. It was a Farmall Super M and it kicked the ramp out and the tractor went over backward because he could not get to the clutch quick enough. All the trailers I sell use a grove in the trailer and a hook on the ramp to prevent this from happening. You may want to consider altering them.

Also watch the steel deck when loading. They get very slippery if wet or muddy. All in all it looks like a good strong trailer. Not knocking it one bit, just wanted to give you some of the stuff I see being in the trailer business. Even if its just part time hobby for me.

Chris
 
   / Pics of my "new" trailer
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I'm going to have to apply for a lost title, it did not have one. I know I will probably catch some flack for that, but everyone I've talked to has said that it won't be much trouble to get a title for the trailer. No need to get into a big discussion about that.

Might there be a weight rating listed on the axles somewhere?

Diamondpilot, thanks for the tips!

It might be hard to see in the pics, but the ramps have a notched end piece that goes over the rail in the rear. You have to pick them up to get them off.
 
   / Pics of my "new" trailer #5  
nice trailer god dont slip on the metal floor as soon as they get a little wet or muddy its like ice. Id have it rhino lined.
 
   / Pics of my "new" trailer #6  
I'm going to have to apply for a lost title, it did not have one. I know I will probably catch some flack for that, but everyone I've talked to has said that it won't be much trouble to get a title for the trailer. No need to get into a big discussion about that.

Might there be a weight rating listed on the axles somewhere?

Diamondpilot, thanks for the tips!

It might be hard to see in the pics, but the ramps have a notched end piece that goes over the rail in the rear. You have to pick them up to get them off.


Glad to hear it has a notch. Very hard to see in the pic but you can see how a trailer that does not can be very dangerous. I personally like to back tractors onto trailers for the reason it can not go over backwards on me.

You may be able to get some data off the axles but I am very sure they are 7K axles. The tell tell sign is 8 lugs. 3500's are 5 lug and 5,200's and 6,000's are 6 lugs.

If they will not issue a new title just register it as a home built. In Indiana if you do not have a title all you need is a notarized letter from the sell, a bill of sale, and a police inspection to get it registered and a new title issued.

Chris
 
   / Pics of my "new" trailer
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Yep, thats basically what you have to do in NC. I have looked all over it and can not find any evidence of old VIN number plates, or weld beads that make the #s, etc, even on the axles. It definitely appears to have been built by a factory, maybe it just never got the numbers put on it. So, all I have to do is go to the DMV and tell them I have a home-built trailer, fill out some paper work, then get the numbers stamped on the trailer, then get it inspected and it should be good to go!

I really can't complain, I got the trailer for $1600, so I think it seems like a decent deal. I just removed the left rear tire and remove the cover, now I'm gonna pull the hub off and take a look inside. It sounds like the brake may be dragging slightly in one spot, or it could be a bearing... but we'll find out!
 
   / Pics of my "new" trailer #8  
I'm with Diamondpilot, it looks like 14,000lb trailer to me too. Eight lugs, heavy tongue jack, and pintle instead of ball hitch (mostly the eight lug axles). I'd say you did well on price. Here in NH, you can register as a home-built also....... the state will put one of their vin tags on it.
 
   / Pics of my "new" trailer #9  
Very nice DENNIS,good find.You might consider the weight distribution hitch,if you dont already got one,it makes them haul so much nicer.Iwish mine had no wood.
ALAN
 
 
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