pasture fertilizing question

[geezer32095]

I only have 4 acres or so of pasture with a 1/3rd acre pond for horses. I usually do 2 times, spring and late summer, about march & sept. We have had lots of rain this winter/spring (in fla ) and I have a nice crop of winter rye growing. I see the normal grass is starting to come out of hibernation now and am thinking of doing several light sessions this year, starting now to boost the rye up a bit as it is looking a little yellowish. Also have the thought in mind that if it stays wet I don't want the fert. to drain into the pond, as much, & to keep the nutrient level more even all summer. We use 21-0-21 here. Any thoughts, opinions?

I am not wondering about what to use I am wondering if it is better to do 2 larger doses or the same total amount in 3 or 4 doses.?

 

[smstonypoint]

Soil testing is in order. You can obtain a test kit from your local Cooperative Extension Office (UF/IFAS ANSERV Labs- Extension Soil Testing Lab, Local Offices - UF/IFAS Extension: Solutions for Your Life)

Steve

 

[DFB]

Usually doesn't matter to apply P and K in just one or two applications. Unused amounts of both normally stay built up in the soil until needed...nitrogen dissipates much more quickly so multiple applications can be more beneficial. Soil tests help save money by knowing how much of what is really necessary. Around here twice in a season is enough.

 

[DaveOmak]

Is there a reason you are not adding phosphorous.... it is a necessary element for Rye..... maybe add some sulfur, iron etc..... A soil sample and analysis would be a good move....

 

[msch2112]

Be careful with the recommended treatment after the analysis. You can spend alot of money quickly and not see revenue increase enough to recoup costs. But if its just for yourself you can be the judge. . Mike

 

[BlackRain75]

We put about 150 Lbs./acre of Urea in April. It does fine year in and year out. We do lime every 7 years.

 

[farmer2009]

Any time you can spoon feed a plant (many small applications instead of one) in theory it should perform better. There does is a point of deminishing returns though. If you rye is yellowing in damp weather it could be it only need nutrients probably nitrogen(but depends on where the yellowing is scurrying on the plant)but it could also be disease. Inspect it closely and instead of a soil sample at this point if you want to know exactly what it needs take a plant tissue sample. Your local lab or extension agent can tell you what part of he plant needs to be tested and how much they need. I am not formilar with rye.

 

[Texasmark]

Back in the 60's a research center at Renner, TX. was established with the help of private investors and the A&M College to help in bringing Texas agriculture back into profitability after the "cottoned out" renaissance. Many tests/field test plots were performed by the very professional staff (lots of PhDs) to ascertain whether or not commercial fertilizers were worth the time and money and what amount and mix was necessary. Results were published in a hard bound book one of which I possess.

In short, fertilizer paid back it's cost many times over and to put out N without P was not the right choice. As others have stated, get a soil test and if it's like you get from TAMU these days here in TX. you tell them what you want to do and you get a customized answer to your soil submittal for how much of what you need to get what you want. Topdressing or not, later in the season, is also part of the answer.

Personally I agree on many small applications if possible/practical/economical but I only do it on my house plants for several reasons. I broadcast in the spring and immediately incorporate it into the soil. Totally agree that N worked into the soil before it can evaporate or not being washed away with the soil during downpours, will sit it out and wait for the plant. BTDT

HTH,
Mark

 

[ATP]

Twice per year is enough...

 

[the old grind]

A quick & dirty Ph test is another option before you inve$t much. I don't know what Ph range the rye prefers, but tweaking it may be necessary to take up whatever N is already in the soil. Depending on grade and soil makeup (clay, sand, etc), you might want to keep some distance from the pond to minimize water contamination.

Feeding half or so of the area at a time may help to evaluate results as you go. Smaller doses more often can be a matter of time available to apply, but I agree would be best. :2cents:

 

[Egbert]

I've got a bit of a side question and thought this might be a good place to ask.

What should be done to the ground after using a location for a series of large burn piles? Does the heat kill the nutrients in the soil? In short, what should I do to restore the burned ground to production of bermuda/fescue hay?

 

[farmer2009]

I've got a bit of a side question and thought this might be a good place to ask.

What should be done to the ground after using a location for a series of large burn piles? Does the heat kill the nutrients in the soil? In short, what should I do to restore the burned ground to production of bermuda/fescue hay?

The heat doesn't effect the nutrients in the soil but the act of burning does cause some of the nutrients in what ever was burned to be released into atmosphere. Only thing is if ashes are very deep they need to be spread and worked in. Then you can soil sample that spot or just sow it.

 

[Texasmark]

I don't know the chemistry of it but every place I had a burn pile whatever grew over it outgrew the surrounding area. However, as stated, a soil test pretty much tells all.

Mark

 

[houstonscott]

Yeah, test your soil, most AG extensions will do it for a small fee, $10. I like to start with 13-13-13 in the spring. If you cut hey, after the first cutting I put down 21-05-05. In the fall back to 13-13-13. If you are concerned for runoff into pond just make sure you put it down when grasses are dry but soil is moist, before a rain, but not before a big rain. Using liquid fertilizers solves your issue and concerns too. Seems to work good. HS.

 

[Bob Ha]

My soil test says to apply 200lbs of Urea twice a year. Normally I put down around 250lbs in the Spring. I live 100 miles from my land and to apply fertilizer in the Summer you must be ready on a moments notice. My Midland 99 and Coastal does fine at this rate but could be better.