Parade/Hay Ride Wagon

[Bills49Cub]

This is true and I was just figuring where they would go. My thoughts are: The side guard is not that high. It will be 1" X 8" boards on a 2" X 4" stake stuck into a pair of stake holders...I am not going to trust one stake holder. Those stake holders will be through bolted also (the screw holes for the holders are wider than the cross member). So, if I used something like this DekLok piece to connect the crossmembers to the 2" X 6" that will be wrapping the bed, that should hold the 2" X 6" wrapping from warping too much if someone were to lean against the guard. And I still want to be able to remove the side guards too. So, the wrappign is supported by Dek Lok type hardware and the stake holders are through bolted into the wrapping. Can you visualize what I am trying to explain?

 

[bcp]

And if at least one bolt goes through all the parts, it will make it even stronger. Visit a Lowes, Home Depot, etc. and look over their framing connectors. Some are thin sheet metal and others may be 1/8 to 1/4 thick. There may be something that will work better in your situation.

Just imagine a 300 pound rider falling against the rail, and design to hold that strain without breaking.

Bruce

 

[Bills49Cub]

HAHAH...well...i have a toddler who can throw himself around with the weight of a 300 pounder! No, no large people that I know of would be in it...except my dad. But, nevertheless, your point is valid. I was think if a joist hanger type thing that would connect horizontally. These are all things I have considered and every time I get a new idea, such as yours and the fastener, I print the page that has the picture and website/phone number. I am hoarding information regarding this trailer.

I am sure I am way over thinking this whole thing...but I want it built like a brick #*!)house and not ever have to worry about the durability of it...all while looking good.

 

[sixdogs]

Be careful not to "overbuild" a wagon. It's not needed and makes the unnecessary mass more awkward to handle. Same with building one too short since it is too limiting for a parade wagon. A better way to make a wagon look smaller is to use a lower profile car tire that puts the whole unit closer to the ground.

A wagon is a simple build as the thread referenced in my earlier post here illustrates. The wood should cost no more that a couple hundred dollars. You really don't need 2" flooring for a small trailer and 3/4" plywood or 1" boards more than sufficient. I've built a number of hay and parade wagons and learned that style and technique make a better looking and more functional wagon as opposed to sheer mass of overbuild. Stringers of 2x12 put the body too high relative to the frame and wheels. And your placement of 4x4's is affected by the relationship to the wheels for clearance.

As well, a used hay wagon frame would work fine--just clean and paint and grease the wheel bearings. If you could find a spoke wheel one with good wheels that might be worth a look. The whole wagon shouldn't cost more than maybe $500 for wagon, paint, wood and lights. Just my two cents here.

 

[Bills49Cub]

...one too short since it is too limiting for a parade wagon. A better way to make a wagon look smaller is to use a lower profile car tire that puts the whole unit closer to the ground....A wagon is a simple build as the thread referenced in my earlier post here illustrates....The wood should cost no more that a couple hundred dollars....1" boards more than sufficient....Stringers of 2x12 put the body too high relative to the frame and wheels....And your placement of 4x4's is affected by the relationship to the wheels for clearance.

As well, a used hay wagon frame would work fine--just clean and paint and grease the wheel bearings. If you could find a spoke wheel one with good wheels that might be worth a look. The whole wagon shouldn't cost more than maybe $500 for wagon, paint, wood and lights. Just my two cents here.

No, I don't want to overbuild, just make it strong and built to last. I am also not set on 2x decking...but definitely planking and not plywood. I prefer the look of the planking as opposed to plywood. I am not necessarily looking for lower profile, just not something that looks too bulky. I will have a better sense too once I see the actual running gear in person and make one final assessment. As is is now, the wood and hardware looks like it will be about 300 or so. According to my drawings, I put as much as I could in my cart at Lowe's to get a sense and it was around 200...less a few things I couldn't find. I am pretty much sticking to the Kory, as I do not have time to search around for old car frames or running gear. This is a definite thing, it won't require any more work...it will arrive and I will start building. My wife already got snippy with me when I said I wanted to take time to build this...so...the less time out, the better. I am definitely not using 2x12 stringers. I just wasn't sure how high the bolsters are and how much will be needed to clear the tires. I want the cross members to be above the tires, not the tires between the crossmembers..most likely 2x6 or 2x8...I used 2x10 in my scale drawing to play it on the safe side with height, but will adjust once I get the specifics from Kory. So, with the added cost of buying the Kory, my estimate for the total cost is pretty much on with yours.

 

[sixdogs]

Kory will be a great gear and 2x8's will likely look the best for stringers. For your 4 x 4's it looks best to have one on either side of the tire and not over the top. You can have the same clearance but it looks more balanced. If you want a plank flooring take a look at the 1" pressure treated boards now sold that seem to have a less-rounded edge than the old style. If you use these I would nail down fast before they warp and leave no gap since they shrink a goodly amount. A problem with any plank floor is they can be somewhat uneven and people can pick up splinters or trip. I really think a plywood deck with a framed edge looks and feels better, shrinks less, and is easier to frame out for a quality look. Spend time picking out 4 x 4's with very little wind and nail/bolt everything together FAST/same day before things warp and wind.

All this is subjective personal opinion but I've built a number of wagons and think I understand the look you are going for. Here's one that's 7' by 12' I recently built that is just for storage of some awkward equipment but will likely double as a small parade wagon. Good luck.






The tire size that seems to look the best is a 7.60-15 rib implement farm tire or the passenger size equivalent of 205-75x15. I have the 205-75-15 on the wagon shown.

Also, if you use 2x8 stringers and 4 x4 posts you will need 1/2 x 12" carriage bolts to put them together. A 9/16 spade bit works best and drills the easiest. The bolts can be hard to find but Rural King Farm stores carries them for a ffair price. Hardware stores occasionally do but the price is often higher.

 

[Bills49Cub]

If you use these I would nail down fast before they warp and leave no gap since they shrink a goodly amount. A problem with any plank floor is they can be somewhat uneven and people can pick up splinters or trip. I really think a plywood deck with a framed edge looks and feels better, shrinks less, and is easier to frame out for a quality look. Spend time picking out 4 x 4's with very little wind and nail/bolt everything together FAST/same day before things warp and wind.

I was planning on doing the thing in stages...the first being all the rpessure treated stuff in the first stage...screwed and bolted to help keep it in place. I used to do construction as a summer job and learned about crowning and picking out the best lumber...but, like you said, I want to make it quick so that I reduce the amount of warping and shrinkage.

I am going back and forth right now with Chris over at Kory to figure out shippign and stuff...but he has been very helpful and reasonable with price. Another reason I feel like getting the Kory also. Customer service seems to be quick and helpful. That goes a long ways!
Thanks.

 

[sixdogs]

Good thinking. You know that pressure treated warps the most and the 4 x 4's seem to be really bad. I usually bolt the stringers in place and then in one session do the 4 x 4's and flooring. Sounds like you are on track and know what you ae doing so it should be a breeze.
Are we getting pictures?

 

[Bills49Cub]

Thanks...Like I said in one of my posts...I am sure I am overthinking it...But it IS my first wagon and I want to make sure all my bases are covered. The only thing that I have thought about but not said anything was...what if I made the decking out of Trex...or some other type of composite flooring? It would alleviate the potential for splinters, warping and any other type of flaw associated with wood, pressure treated or otherwise.

has anyone made a decking out of Trex or composite?

 

[Bills49Cub]

For anybody that is still following the thread...

I have decided to go with the Kory 3000 model without the additional metal bed. I felt confident in the construction. Chris at Kory was more than helpful too and was able to get it shipped to me with a 1 7/8 hitch modification for under 1K.

I was delayed gettign off my rig an extra 4 days, so I won't be getting to work on it for another week and a half though

But, I will document my building of it wth many pictures from bare frame to finish, so it can help anyone else that is interested in this.

My '49 Cub is getting fully restored by a local guy who does them for people all over the east coast and will not be done until Mid-november...so, I am goingto take this time I am home to build my wagon to my liking. When I get home next time, then the tractor will be done and hopefull they will be a ncie combination. I wil be sure to take pitures of the pair as well!