I'm thinking of making my own L-shaped pallet forks from square tubing (vertical part of the "L" clamping at the top of the bucket and the horizontal part resting on the bottom of the bucket). Do folks here have suggestions about what size and thickness of tubing to use? I'm thinking 2" A36 mild steel square tubing 0.12" thick. Does that sound reasonable?
pallet fork tubing size
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RickB
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My home-built clamp on forks are made from 2x4x1/4 rectangular tubing. Mine are straight and extend from the cutting edge (with a pocket for the edge to slip into) under the bucket to the 'heel' then are chained & bound over the bucket. No weld joint in the fork.
gwdixon
Elite Member
You know, the best solution is to go to a shop that repairs forklifts. They seem to always have, or can get, used forks at a very reasonable price.
Then all you have to do is weld on some mounting device and you have real forks that are almost impossible to bend.
Then all you have to do is weld on some mounting device and you have real forks that are almost impossible to bend.
jimcolt
Gold Member
2" x 2" square tubing with a .120" wall will not make for much of a fork. It would probably be good (safe) for 200 lbs or so about 18 inches beyond the front edge of the bucket.
If you want forks that can handle roughly 800 lbs (per two forks) use 2" x 2" x 3/16" wall.
For 1200 lbs use 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall, for 1600 lbs use 2" x 3" x 1/4" wall, and for up to 2000 lbs cpacity use 2" x 4" x 1/4" wall steel tube.
Thes numbers mean nothing if the rest of your design is not done correctly, or if you have bad welds! Attached are some pics of a few forks I have built in the last few years. I had one set of 2000 lb forks come back.....they had been modified to fit a John Deere comercial backhoe/loader, and they lifted a 4500 lb pallet of lanscape blocks. These forks were 2" x 4" x 1/4" wall, and they did not break with this load, but the clamp mechanism bent. I repaired the forks and explaining what the rated capacity meant....and sent him on his way. (I have good insurance!)
Jim
If you want forks that can handle roughly 800 lbs (per two forks) use 2" x 2" x 3/16" wall.
For 1200 lbs use 2" x 2" x 1/4" wall, for 1600 lbs use 2" x 3" x 1/4" wall, and for up to 2000 lbs cpacity use 2" x 4" x 1/4" wall steel tube.
Thes numbers mean nothing if the rest of your design is not done correctly, or if you have bad welds! Attached are some pics of a few forks I have built in the last few years. I had one set of 2000 lb forks come back.....they had been modified to fit a John Deere comercial backhoe/loader, and they lifted a 4500 lb pallet of lanscape blocks. These forks were 2" x 4" x 1/4" wall, and they did not break with this load, but the clamp mechanism bent. I repaired the forks and explaining what the rated capacity meant....and sent him on his way. (I have good insurance!)
Jim
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BruceWard
Platinum Member
I used 2x2x1/4. At a cost of $10 a foot they were not too expensive.
As others have said, I doubt 2x2x1/8 will handle much of a load.
JimColt, I am curious how you arrvied at your load ratings for the various sizes of material? My understanding is that the increasing the height or thickness of the vertical sidewall increases the lifting load capability of the forks. But that increasing the width of the horizontal wall should not do anything more than decrease the point load stress on whatever is being lifted by the forks. I believe that a 2x2x1/4 and 2x4x1/4 should be able to support an equal load unless the 4 side is vertical.
As others have said, I doubt 2x2x1/8 will handle much of a load.
JimColt, I am curious how you arrvied at your load ratings for the various sizes of material? My understanding is that the increasing the height or thickness of the vertical sidewall increases the lifting load capability of the forks. But that increasing the width of the horizontal wall should not do anything more than decrease the point load stress on whatever is being lifted by the forks. I believe that a 2x2x1/4 and 2x4x1/4 should be able to support an equal load unless the 4 side is vertical.
jimcolt
Gold Member
BruceWard,
You are correct for the most part as the sidewalls of the tubing are the primary strength for thr vertical load on the forks. The thicker wall (in tension on the top and compression on the bottom does add a small amount of strength. The thicker sections provide for better strength in the areas where the clamp asssembly is welded as well.
All of my forks will easily exceed the ratings, and are periodically tested with weights suspended from the center of the usable length of the fork tine......so you could say that the ratings were developed by trial and error, which included some bent and broken forks!
I would have no issues with lifting approximately 30% more than each set of forks are rated at. Fortunately, most compact tractors can not exceed the cpacity of the forks. The design is not perfect, however it makes for a very cost effective fork for the occasional user. I would not recommend them for anyone that has a lot of forklift work to do.
Jim
You are correct for the most part as the sidewalls of the tubing are the primary strength for thr vertical load on the forks. The thicker wall (in tension on the top and compression on the bottom does add a small amount of strength. The thicker sections provide for better strength in the areas where the clamp asssembly is welded as well.
All of my forks will easily exceed the ratings, and are periodically tested with weights suspended from the center of the usable length of the fork tine......so you could say that the ratings were developed by trial and error, which included some bent and broken forks!
I would have no issues with lifting approximately 30% more than each set of forks are rated at. Fortunately, most compact tractors can not exceed the cpacity of the forks. The design is not perfect, however it makes for a very cost effective fork for the occasional user. I would not recommend them for anyone that has a lot of forklift work to do.
Jim
kdm0811
Bronze Member
jimcolt
Gold Member
Apease,
The reference is my trial and error testing, and the 80 or so sets that I have produced over the last 3 years! If you need further details to determine proper sizing and strength to build forks, I suggest talking with an engineer that can calculate the load and the stress. There are many factors to consider in building forks....the load bouncing, the load centerline, the fork length, the strength of the FEL and the bucket, the strength of the clamp design, the integrity of the welds, etc. If you are building forks for your own use, just be careful with them....especially if you are not 100% sure of your welding skills!
Jim
The reference is my trial and error testing, and the 80 or so sets that I have produced over the last 3 years! If you need further details to determine proper sizing and strength to build forks, I suggest talking with an engineer that can calculate the load and the stress. There are many factors to consider in building forks....the load bouncing, the load centerline, the fork length, the strength of the FEL and the bucket, the strength of the clamp design, the integrity of the welds, etc. If you are building forks for your own use, just be careful with them....especially if you are not 100% sure of your welding skills!
Jim
BruceWard
Platinum Member
I broke three sets of forks built from scrap material (sign posts) before switching to 2x2x1/4 tubing and welding mounts inside the bucket. The failures occured moving stumps and rocks so no damage ocurred.
This picture shows the blanks / teeth installed. These come out and 4' forks take their place.
Previous to this I tried building bolt on (through the bucket) and clamp on forks. The mounting always turned out to be a weak point.
This picture shows the blanks / teeth installed. These come out and 4' forks take their place.
Previous to this I tried building bolt on (through the bucket) and clamp on forks. The mounting always turned out to be a weak point.
jimcolt
Gold Member
If you are welding 3/16" with a mig welder (using gas) make sure you have a 180 to 200 Amp welder, and have an experienced welder helping you out. And don't stand anywhere near the forks when lifting a load! If done correctly the welds should be stronger than the base metal, if incorrect they will break easily, or can weaken the base metal.
jim
jim
jimcolt
Gold Member
The clamp on a clamp on fork should not be taking the load....rather, the shape of the clamp assembly ahead of the clamp should be load bearing. On my design, the forks will lift the full rated load without tightening the clamps.....the clamp bolts are only there to hold the forks on the bucket.
Jim
Jim
Here's my design, if you're curious. I thought I'd do something similar to what the BXpanded forks looks like. I'd weld a hinge to the top of the tubes,
secured by a bolt. The part the hooks on the top rounded part of the bucket I
figure I can rough cut and then grind round to fit. I'll reinforce the L-shape
with a diagonal. I also thought I might put a plate on the bottom of the forks
that could hook under the bucket.
secured by a bolt. The part the hooks on the top rounded part of the bucket I
figure I can rough cut and then grind round to fit. I'll reinforce the L-shape
with a diagonal. I also thought I might put a plate on the bottom of the forks
that could hook under the bucket.
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BruceWard
Platinum Member
Looks like a great design. I expect that will hold up well.
I find the having the tip go \ helps get it under logs and rocks. My forks are primarily used this way rather than moving pallets.
I find the having the tip go \ helps get it under logs and rocks. My forks are primarily used this way rather than moving pallets.
gwdixon
Elite Member
In my opinion you may want to have a way to secure the base of the forks to the bucket.
I had a set of forks that attached similarly to what you are doing and dumping the bucket (w/forks) caused the forks to swing out. If you use them for piling branches or logs it is quite inconvenient.
GWDixon... I have a set of BXpanded forks which articulate at the top. Having them them NOT attached at the bottom is an advantage I have found. If I get my angle wrong as I am lowering having the forks being able to bend at the top is nice and nothing gets bent. I would be afraid (at least for our light duty BX buckets) that something would bend on the bucket if it were fastened at the base. I guess I have gotten used to this setup and find it works fine.
