Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits.

   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits. #1  

Wakey

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I've seen someone spray the Hardiplank and it came out really nice. How about the soffits and fascia?

What kind of prep besides pressure washing? I'm assuming the only caulk I need to dig out and replace is the ones showing separation? I have some Sherwin Williams Sher Max caulk if that is sufficient.

Assuming spraying this is advisable, which gun? Home Depot has the Graco line, anyone have one of those?

I'll likely be building a new home this year so purchasing one would be worthwhile for me.

If I need to sand the fascia and soffits I have a Bosch orbital palm sander.
 
   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits. #2  
Graco is top of the line. Compare prices, you can get them online cheaper then at Home Depot. Sherwin Williams also has some good sales on them, but it's hit or miss.

NEVER pressure wash a house. This is one of the very worse things you can ever do to a house. No house was ever built to withstand a thousand, or several thousand psi of water trying to get into it!!! Pressure washers will blow out your seals, the caulking, and the paint. These things are there to keep water out. Once you force water past all your seals, you now have to deal with all that water that is now inside your walls, inside your soffits and behind your siding. Since these areas are protected from the sun and wind, they take a very long time to dry out. If it's warm at all, you have now created the perfect conditions for mold to grow. Food, moisture and warmth. It might take years, but eventually, you will have mold in there. You also might end up with termites and other types of bugs.

To properly clean a house, you need to buy a house cleaning detergent, spray it on the house, scrub it with a brush and wash it off with a hose. Then repeat until you get it clean.

Caulking is as good as what it costs. The better caulking costs more. It is more elastic, and it doesn't shrink as much over time. I like the 45 year stuff in white. Clear shrinks too much. Other colors are fine, but white is easy to see where it's applied and easy to paint over.

When applying caulking, be sure to go slow enough to get it into the cracks. Where you have existing cracking in your caulking, cut it with a sheetrock knife to create a V channel. No need to remove all of it, you just want to be able to fill the void. After you apply the caulking, I like to have a small cup of water handy. I dip my finger in the water and with a wet finger, smooth out the caulking. The results are flawless this way.

If the wood is holding the old paint good, you can paint right over the old. If the paint is coming off, or you have exposed wood, be sure to use a good quality exterior primer. Sherwin Williams has one specific for bare wood that is excellent. Zinsser makes the only other brand that I recommend for primer. Every other brand is junk!!!!

Once you are done caulking and priming, you will have no problem spraying. Just be sure to go slow enough to get good coverage. Also try to pay attention to your angle. You want to spray straight on. If you are at an angle, there will by areas on the Hardie that do not get as much paint as other areas. Especially behind the ridges on the boards. After spraying, I always inspect real close and usually have to touch up areas with a brush.

I also have the Bosch orbital sander from Lowes. It's a fair sander, but it's picky on the sand paper it likes. I've found that some sand paper, like Shop Smith, doesn't do well with sticking to the pad. Diablo seems to do the best, but it's nowhere near as good a sandpaper as Shop Smith. My next orbital sander will not be a Bosch becasue of the limited sand papers I can use on it.
 
   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits. #3  
Eddie has good advice about smoothing caulk -- I use a cup of water with a teeny bit of soap in it. Keep dipping the finger and it lets you smooth the caulk without making a mess.

In a pinch, or for a small run of caulk, I will slobber up my finger with my tongue, and that works fine too. Obviously, you only get to do that once, before you start spreading the caulk. I suppose you could spit on your finger to keep going, but that would be the point where my lazy butt goes and gets a cup of water....
 
   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits. #4  
Caulk aint gonna kill ya. Just lick your finger again... ;-)
 
   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits. #5  
Personally, you should be good enough with a caulk gun so that you don't have to come back and "tool" the joint. The only times I tool joints is in a critical location like a counter or shower. Then I'm masking off the edges so I can get a crisp caulk line. If you are going to paint, go for a quality latex product. The paint is the most expensive portion of the project, but it's the point that too many people go cheap on only to have it fail. I've been using the Behr line for some time now and have had really good luck with it. Look at the warranty lengths and buy the longest warranty you can afford. If you are using latex, make sure your caulk is paintable. Silicones are not paintable. The paint will bead up and then flake off. When shopping, look for "sealant". This term distinguishes the better products from the entry level "caulk". Personally, I like the OSI Quad line. But Dynflex and PL are also good products.

Regarding pressure washing, I feel that it can be done, but it must be done with finesse. If you have a pressure regulator, adjust it to reduce the pressure. Then use a fan tip to help further reduce the chance for damage. After that, make sure you point the gun down so the water sheds off the siding and isn't driven into the house. Stay away from openings. You won't be able to wash the soffit or fascia without driving water inside. After that, to hit the siding with some TSP won't hurt as it well help to prep the surface and give it some tooth for the paint to bite into.

For a gun, stay away from the Wagner stuff. That's homeowner grade junk. Personally, I'd suggest looking on craigslist and buying a used professional grade gun. Spraytech, although now owned by Wagner, was an exceptionally good line. I personally have a Spraytech. I think mine is a EPX2505. I like the upright units over the floor models because you can dip them right into the can of paint. First time I rented a paint gun it was a floor model and I fought the hose and ended up making a huge mess on a wood floor. To quickly tell if a unit has been maintained, take the filter apart. People who don't take care of their equipment will just run some water through it. This will leave paint in the filter which will dry and become a mess. If you have a clogged filter, take it apart and soak the parts in brush cleaner.

Look on the paint can for a recommended tip orifice size. As a novice, I'd recommend this as a maximum tip and you'll actually be better going smaller. This will let you make some mistakes and not end up with runs. Be sure to read the article below on how tips are sized. It's important to know this. Generally you don't have to mask off everything. Buy a paint shield and practice with it. Then decide what needs to be masked and what can be shielded. You'll want to keep a rag and bucket handy for the mistakes. Thankfully latex cleans off pretty easily. I have not had good luck with tip extensions so I'd recommend staying away from them.

Useful links: Understanding Airless Spray Tips - Original Articles
Painting With an Airless Sprayer | The Family Handyman
 
   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits.
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Thanks for all the advice, I really appreciate it!

So all of it is ok to spray, including Windows? If so, just razor scrape the glass after?

I'm pretty good at caulking, love the cup of water idea, licking fingers gets messy.

And pressure washing, I just give it a rinse really. I use the wand with the black tip to spray my outdoor bleach and degreaser mix. Using the extensions keeps me off the ladder with my tall eaves when rinsing.

I picked up a Dremel MM45 (plunge cutter?) for cutting out rotten brick mold. Man I love this tool! I used a dull metal/wood blade to remove a compromised line of caulk on the window next to the brick. It was quick work! I suppose I will have to brush this caulk with paint or can you use the blocking shield for that and spray it?

Thanks again!
 
   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits. #7  
I wouldn't spray a window. Usually what I do is spray up close to them and use a big piece of cardboard held up on the trim around the window to make sure no paint gets on the window. Then I come back with a brush and finish it off.
 
   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits. #8  
NEVER pressure wash a house. This is one of the very worse things you can ever do to a house. No house was ever built to withstand a thousand, or several thousand psi of water trying to get into it!!! <snip>
I've vinyl siding. I've used a pressure washer to spray soap, at low pressure, then wash off at moderate pressure with the washer pointed so it doesn't run water up under the siding, and being careful of the seams. I think a pressure washer at high pressure could cut vinyl.

Eddie has good advice about smoothing caulk -- I use a cup of water with a teeny bit of soap in it. Keep dipping the finger and it lets you smooth the caulk without making a mess.

In a pinch, or for a small run of caulk, I will slobber up my finger with my tongue, and that works fine too. Obviously, you only get to do that once, before you start spreading the caulk. I suppose you could spit on your finger to keep going, but that would be the point where my lazy butt goes and gets a cup of water....
I've done that, but usually keep a rag nearby to wipe my fingers on and I'm lucky I guess because I have 8 fingers and two thumbs I can use. :)
 
   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits.
  • Thread Starter
#9  
I completely removed this caulk earlier today, before I saw these posts. Tomorrow I'll try cutting a v into what is there and see how that comes out.
 

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   / Painting Hardiplank lap siding and wood soffits.
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I scraped and then sanded with the Dremel. Primer and then caulk?
 

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