Padlocks

[California]

You have to be able to get at them though. Our gates have a tab which goes into a piece of 4" pipe with another tab, and the lock fits up inside it. there's no way that you're going to get a cutoff tool up inside of it.

We had a similar gate at our mining claim up in the Sierras.

The tab on that gate was on the bottom of the arm and it went into a plate on the top of the post, with the lock shielded inside the post. So you reached into a hole in the post lower down, and reached up to insert the key. We thought it was idiotproof ....

Somebody got in by sawing off the tab, probably with a reciprocal saw. It had been a snug fit so they apparently wedged the gate arm up from the post just enough to get the saw started in the gap.

 

[Jstpssng]

We had a similar gate at our mining claim up in the Sierras.

The tab on that gate was on the bottom of the arm and it went into a plate on the top of the post, with the lock shielded inside the post. So you reached into a hole in the post lower down, and reached up to insert the key. We thought it was idiotproof ....

Somebody got in by sawing off the tab, probably with a reciprocal saw. It had been a snug fit so they apparently wedged the gate arm up from the post just enough to get the saw started in the gap.

I mentioned in the gate thread just after posting the above; that's just how I got into one of our gates when some clown jammed our lock. It took me longer to find my hacksaw then it took to cut through. If I really wanted to keep people out I would heat the vulnerable parts with a torch until red, then stand back and cool it in oil.

 

[radios1]

I mentioned in the gate thread just after posting the above; that's just how I got into one of our gates when some clown jammed our lock. It took me longer to find my hacksaw then it took to cut through. If I really wanted to keep people out I would heat the vulnerable parts with a torch until red, then stand back and cool it in oil.

that only works with hardenable steel, not mild steel. anyway, a carbide hacksaw blade will cut through the hardest steel, as will a battery operated angle grinder..

 

[PILOON]

For years now I have dosed all my locks, including car doors. with an annual dose of WD40.
I live is cold winter Quebec and have never had a lock problem since I started doing this.

I also treat my ignition switches with WD40.

WD is non corrosive and non conductive so ideal 4 locks.

 

[radios1]

For years now I have dosed all my locks, including car doors. with an annual dose of WD40.
I live is cold winter Quebec and have never had a lock problem since I started doing this.

I also treat my ignition switches with WD40.

WD is non corrosive and non conductive so ideal 4 locks.

it's also a petroleum product, so it's not good at all for plastic or rubber, as it can dissolve them!.. silicone or Teflon is better!.

 

[ArlyA]

WD 40 is a great cleaner, but a poor lubricant and has a very short lifespan of doing that. This is the oil lock manufactures recommend using.

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51...gateway&sr=8-3

For years now I have dosed all my locks, including car doors. with an annual dose of WD40.
I live is cold winter Quebec and have never had a lock problem since I started doing this.
I also treat my ignition switches with WD40.
WD is non corrosive and non conductive so ideal 4 locks.

 

[bunyip]

I use silicon for a number of applications as it doesn't seem to attract dust like oil based products and I was told that WD40 and all the clones are water displacers and not lubes.
Having said that I have used it to free up uncooperative padlocks with success.
I use silicon on my log splitter rail as everything else I use seems to finish up as a sawdust slurry.

 

[dougtrr2]

I am in the camp of locks keep honest people honest. So I like the Master lock with the digital combination. That way I can change the number if needed and don't have to worry about keys. Another option not mentioned are padlocks that can be keyed to your house key. Not sure of the quality, but they were carried at Lowes for a time. I think a locksmith would have access to them also.

Doug in SW IA

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I am in the camp of locks keep honest people honest. So I like the Master lock with the digital combination. That way I can change the number if needed and don't have to worry about keys. Another option not mentioned are padlocks that can be keyed to your house key. Not sure of the quality, but they were carried at Lowes for a time. I think a locksmith would have access to them also.

Doug in SW IA

The only locks I know of that can be combinated for a door key are those with removable cores. Best and Falcon come to mind as I am familiar with both from my Facility manager days. There are even drawer locks and cabinet locks that take the cores. As a FM I inherited a facility here we had around 500 different keys we stocked blanks for. In three years we witteled that down to 50. We stocked combinated cores for master and submaster cores. 2 seconds to rekey a lock.

Ron

 

[aczlan]

The only locks I know of that can be combinated for a door key are those with removable cores. Best and Falcon come to mind as I am familiar with both from my Facility manager days. There are even drawer locks and cabinet locks that take the cores. As a FM I inherited a facility here we had around 500 different keys we stocked blanks for. In three years we witteled that down to 50. We stocked combinated cores for master and submaster cores. 2 seconds to rekey a lock.

Ron

Those doors and locks can also take Schlag SFIC cores IIRC.

Aaron Z