Overheating Jinma 284

[Flex4]

I hope someone can help me with my 2006 Jinma 284 that has been overheating. I have replaced the thermostat, I have also taken the radiator to a radiator shop and had it cleaned inside and out. My water pump is functioning because the water is flowing in the radiator, I don't see any oil in my radiator or my engine oil. I have no idea why it is continuing to cause my engine to overheat and spill out through the radiator overflow hose. I have noticed that the radiator fluid always foams up, no matter what type of fluid I use, I have tried Fleet Charge, and other regular radiator fluids and it always foams up and overflows. If someone has any idea on what I can check to determine my current problem I would greatly appreciate it?

Thank you,

Peter

 

[Flex4]

Just an additional note, when I had my radiator cleaned they also repaired 3 small low flow leaks that I had in the radiator.

 

[greg_g]

I think I understand your use of "overflows" to mean what happens when the engine overheats. The radiator overflow tube spews anti-freeze. But please elaborate on "foams up".

Cuz if it does that as soon as the engine starts, that's often symptomatic of a bad head gasket. The fact that you don't notice oil in the cooling system could be explained by your seemingly frequent coolant changes. If that's all it is, changing a head gasket is a relatively straightforward job. So question #2 becomes; did you retorque the head gasket at the recommended 50 hours, and again at 500 hours?

But if there's no oil in the coolant over the long term, you might be looking at a cracked block; that is, exhaust leaking into the cooling system.

Also - have you noticed any change in the engine oil level (or color) on the dipstick?

//greg//

 

[Bob Rooks]

More likely a cracked liner or cylinder head if it's not a head gasket. To know for sure if it's either of those, I recommend using this setup. Great diagnostic tool.

Lisle 75500 Combustion Leak Detector Kit - Toolfetch.com
Amazon.com: Combustion Leak Detector Fluid - Diesel: Automotive

You can also get it at NAPA.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I agree with the guys. You either have a bad head gasket, cracked head, liner, ect. I would go to HF and buy a diesel compression checker. Use it via the glow plugs or injectors and try to see which cylinder is low on compression. If that does not give you a sign try rigging up shop air via the same fittings and introduce air to the engine one cylinder at a time watching the rad for bubbles.

Chris

 

[Jinma284]

A loose fan belt will also cause it to heat quickly. Pat

 

[Diamondpilot]

A loose fan belt will also cause it to heat quickly. Pat

Good point Pat.

Chris

 

[Kernopelli]

I had this same problem with my 284. Changed thermostat, cleaned radiator, etc. with no other obvious problems. I finally relocated the battery so the radiator could get better airflow and it solved the problem immediately. Don't know if the '06 has the battery mounted in front of the radiator or lower and more to the front but if it is directly in front of the radiator you may want to update it's placement.

 

[stevem5215]

There is also one other simple thing no one has mentioned. I've seen it occur on cars quite a bit and that is to replace or test the radiator cap. They are cheap and I can't imagine that a chinese one would be of great quality anyway. The one on our FarmPro 2420 is still ok but that tractor at times has issues with getting too hot. We have to be careful with a washed out and blown dry clean radiator fins. It was a bigger issue when my brother was just using it originally as he didn't understand why it would do that even when "new" at the time. I had to explain how off road use works. Dirt and dust when cutting = plugged fins. And show him how shining a light on the backside shows the dirt plugging. Simple.

Steve - who put a new cap on his Ford 1900 when I had my "getting hot" issue. Turned out in my case the rad was extremely plugged up inside with rust and I found that chem flushing it has made a difference along with yearly antifreeze changes has gotten it working back to normal temp ranges again. And yes, Fleet charge is part of the yearly change.

 

[Flex4]

Hey Greg in response to when it overflows, it begins to foam up within seconds of starting it up. It actually overflows/boils over and through the overflow tube next to the radiator cap. My neighbor just lent me his leak-check/ combustion leak tester. I'm going to test it now and let you guys know the results.

Thank you,

Peter