Ouch, anyone able to explain the cost difference?

[Richard]

Alamo TK15/TK15-HD ARCHIVE (07-04) Parts Diagrams

Alamo Parts Catalog Lookup. Buy Alamo Parts Online & Save!

www.messicks.com

If I posted link correctly.....

Wheel fell off my flexwing mower. Dug into it yesterday. Hub has two bearings, inner and outer. Inner is intact, outer self destructed, which allowed wheel to pull off spindle. (mower was made around 1984)

As I see the listing, Item #2, the outer bearing & race (or cup as they call it) is $416. The larger, inner bearing & cup is $129.

Wha?? Why would the larger bearing cost less than the smaller?

It's got me wondering if I can go down to NAPA with the (broken) parts in hand and see if they've got one that fits a ??? Ford/Chevy/Daihatsu (frankly, I don't care the brand if the size is right) for $50....

$416?? I get the inflation thing but ouch!

Might be time to look for a boneyard, see how lucky I might be. (I'm usually not very lucky)

 

[Tx Jim]

If it was my cutter I'd be getting brgs/races from a brg supply business not an equipment dealership.

 

[scootr]

We have a couple of places here where you can bring in the bearing you want to replace and they will perfectly match it for pennies on the dollar compared to OEM.
When you get it fixed ensure you have a way to grease them and do so often.
I have one old mower with bad U joint seals, I grease it each time I use it. Easier than trying to find and change 50 yr old parts. So far so good.

 

[Richard]

Digging deeper into the parts manual, it says

"Bearing Asy, Outer (00752747 Cone & 00752748 Cup) S/N 41143 up"

I would equate the cup to being what I would call the race. Is the cone what they're calling the bearing?

 

[mrmikey]

That's ridiculous, the bearing and race number should be on the outer face of each part like in the attached pic. If not, either take the old parts with you to a bearing shop or take the sizes, the manufacturers don't make their own bearings. I've got no use for companies that gouge like that.
Friend of mine bought a bearing for a rear wheel from a motorcycle dealer, it was an SKF for $65 as he was away from home . He went to a bearing shop when he got back home, same bearing in the same box even was less that $25.
Same scenario for belts, from dealer the deck belt for my ZT is almost $80, from a bearing shop $28.
For comparison on the complete hub for USD$ 2,200.00 Here's a complete trailer hub and stub for CAN$ 150.00

 

[Richard]

Here's a complete trailer hub and stub for CAN$ 150.00

Exactly!

When I first did a search, I was finding hubs for similar amounts, so just merrily and ignorantly went about my search, then (recalling that my version of Terrain King is no longer part of Alamo, started searching on Terrain King.... and found what I found)

So now am expanding my search. Found a local place "BDI" I've never heard of them but looks like they're not just local.... of course, Sunday so closed. Sent them an email to see.

I don't worry TOO much if something is abusing me for $50 (depending on effort needed to worry about it)

But several hundred?

Yeah, I'm on this one. One down side, the bearing I actually NEED is missing the portion that would have those numbers stamped on it. All I have is the inner portion that help support the bearings.

 

[BleedingOrange]

Richard, check your other wheels, and remove the most floppy one. Take it apart to get the proper numbers you require. You might want to check them all, especially if you can find a supplier that sells them reasonably.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I don't know anything about your mower, but doesn't it have more than a single wheel?
Pull the other set apart and see what you need?

 

[mrmikey]

As was said, check the other side, chances are if they're all the same age that it could be on the way out also and it'll give you a chance to get the numbers. If you can't get the numbers you can measure it. 10 to 1 you'll find it's a standard size trailer wheel bearing.

 

[Richard]

Yep, thought crossed my mind (finally!!!)

Has six wheels, only one (folded wing) other up in the air.

Just took it off and looks like I can get the big one (seems to be ok but I'll probably replace everything) for under $50 and this small one, the one that blew up, for $10-20 depending on vendor.

Heck, at this rate, I might take all the wheels apart, clean and replace all the bearings. Though none of them wobble side to side.... I tend to be a bit OCD like that so I know everything has the same starting point.

Tomorrow, at work, I am going to one of the local technical schools.....happens they teach automotive. I'll see where they think I might buy them. Last time I was there, I had the oil/filter in my trunk as I was preparing for an oil change.... he asked if they could do it essentially for free (since I had materials), he wanted to use it as a real life experience for someone.

Note to you reading this.... if you have an automotive school near you, it's possible you can get something done far cheaper than a dealer/mechanic because once again, they're teaching and hands on experience is good for them. You pay for the parts (which strikes me as totally fair!)

 

[flyerdan]

As near as I can find, this should be a list of valid options. Dimensions are given so you can get the calipers and see if this is the correct group.

 

[true temper]

Dealership should be ashamed of gouging prices like that. If you are really cheap like me get the numbers and look on eBay they usually have what I need for cheap.

 

[BleedingOrange]

Talking about dealer gouging, I had to replace a MAF sensor on a vehicle yesterday, dealer price, 280, Amazon 40 delivered.

 

[bearthebruce]

Talking about dealer gouging, I had to replace a MAF sensor on a vehicle yesterday, dealer price, 280, Amazon 40 delivered.

Yeah, and I bet it is a Chinese Replacement Auto Part otherwise known as CRAP. You'll be replacing it again soon!

We live this every day in our business with people using the cheap online parts thinking they are the equivalent of the OE part. They are not. They fail at a really high rate. Know there is some justification for the difference in the price of the parts.

I hope in your case I am wrong.

 

[newbury]

<snip>

Note to you reading this.... if you have an automotive school near you, it's possible you can get something done far cheaper than a dealer/mechanic because once again, they're teaching and hands on experience is good for them. You pay for the parts (which strikes me as totally fair!)

Used to get most of my work (oil changes, brakes) done at local high schools, they needed the work, students needed the experience. Just took some time getting it lined up. Then the lawyers got involved and they stopped the practice.

 

[POGuy]

For important equipment, I prefer to match bearings at a brick and mortar bearing store. They have skin in the game and don't want to sell a cheap knock off and ruin a reputation. Amazon don't care, you were looking for the cheapest option and they supplied it, the out come is on you.

 

[5030]

Bottom line is, we live in an inflationary economy so nothing is cheap today and it's progressively getting worse. Myself, I make a concerted effort not to buy Asian stuff as it's usually substandard to begin with.

I've never replaced a MAF sensor on any vehicle yet. I just clean the heated element with CRC MAF cleaner. They do get fouled over time, especially when you use an oiled filter like a K&N. The oil from the filter element fouls the MAF sensor and throws an error code.

I quit using K&N's years ago. Too much hassle with EPA correct engines. I just run dry pleated paper filters now and change them out regularly.

 

[Shenandoah MF1760]

I think some of this comes down to having zero or as little as possible inventory, in order to avoid paying taxes.

The one bearing might have been a common replacement part for that machine as well as others. The one you needed they'd probably have to order after finding where they could get it So, they factored in a "work" fee to cover the time needed.

Sometimes the dealer is the worst possible place to obtain a part due to the cost they place on that OEM packaging.

Amazon is a gamble, and fakes abound. I'd rather pay more to McMaster-Carr for things like hardened fasteners etc. to ensure I'm getting what I need.

For bearings, a place like Ohio Bearing Supply is good if you don't have a local shop.

 

[Richard]

Bit of an update and a question....

I took the bearings to local auto places..... NOBODY has/had them unless I wanted something that 'should' fit but, made in china. For all I know, the Timkins might be made in China but I wanted to keep the same numbers.

Finally went online, found both inner/outer bearings with races.... shipped for essentially $80.00

That's the update.

Now for a question....

The larger of the races, I was able to tap out using an appropriately sized screw driver and gently tapping around the back side of it. (I was told I need the number on the race to be sure to get the correct race, I didn't realize there might be different races for a bearing but that's what I inferred from what I was told)

None the less.... I get the large out, turn over to tap the small one out. It ain't budging.... long story short, I finally got it down on concrete floor with a pad under it and ended up having to WAIL on it (screwdriver) to "tap" it out. Wasn't apperently moving so pulled some heat out to heat around it (gently, nothing horifically hot)

Finally started to budge. I spent 2 minutes tapping out the large one, maybe 45 minutes "beating the snot" out of the small one BUT, got it out.

This is suggesting to me I'm going to have some issues "tapping" the small one back in. It dawned on me that after I clean up the insides, that alone might help.... but if not, thought I'd see if there are any secrets to reinstalling a stubborn race?

None of my sockets are that perfect fit. One I used, was able to slide into the race and that was from the back side. I need to be more careful on the bearing side.

Open to any wisdom on installing.

 

[mrmikey]

An easier way to get a race out, if you have access to it, would be a welder. Run a bead around the inside of the race, when it cools, it'll fall out.
As for driving it back in, if you get the old race out using the above method, use it to drive the new one in. Make sure to clean the rust and crap from the area first tho. If you chuck the race in the freezer for a bit and warm up the hub with a torch, (or oven if no one catches you ) it should almost fall in place.