Opinions on my first tractor purchase please(L2501)

[PaulL2]

For moving your concrete mixer and other implements, I'd think about SSQA and pallet forks. Then you can put everything on pallets, and just pick them up. Way easier than messing with chains, and if you get forks that can go on your 3PH it's nicer to use too - you can carry stuff in your bucket plus a pallet of tools, concrete mixer, cement, whatever on the back.

You can clear snow with your loader in float. You need to be careful, but it works fine. Keep the front edge rolled back a bit so it doesn't dig in. It'll ride over some of the snow, but it'll work. Worst case you can clear backwards, and back drag with the bucket. That'll definitely work.

Width may be important, the L2501 is a bit wider than a B. But not so much wider it'll probably matter, unless you have some particular spaces between trees that you want to get through.

I agree that if renting a chipper, makes more sense to rent a self powered one. Then you can tow it to location with the tractor, then use the tractor to drag all the material to the chipper, rather than have your tractor tied to the chipper and stationary so you have to drag everything by hand.

 

[Fallon]

R1 (ag) tires are taller & skinnier with deeper lugs. They have better traction in softer dirt & self clean in mud. R4 (industrial) tires are made out of harder rubber, have greater weight capacity & are slightly less damaging to grass & turf.

R1 & R4 use different rims & aren't interchangeable. For the economy Kubotas the R4s are fixed width & non adjustable. I'm not sure if the R1 rims are adjustable. Personally I've been happy with R4s on both my machines, a hair less traction, but handle heavy loads better & tear up the ground slightly less.

 

[ericm979]

R4s are wider which makes for a more stable tractor on slopes. The tires have a more square profile and stiffer sidewalls which also helps lateral stability. R1 rims are usually adjustable for width. R4s often are but mostly on higher end tractors. On my Branson I got slightly smaller wheels and tires from a different model. That lowers the center of gravity for better stability at the cost of ground clearance. For me the tradeoff is worth it. I can be more careful of what I drive over but I can't change the slope of my land. I also got 2" spacers for the rear. The front axle on CUTs is on a pivot so the rear provides all the lateral stability on side hills. The front axle pivot will eventually run out of travel but that's farther than I want to take it.

The width specs for most tractors is with R1s set at minimum width. Some Kubotas list multiple widths.

 

[rScotty]

Ellen, you've gotten lots of good advice so far and I'd like to add a suggestion. I've used tractors on our mountain land for a lifetime now. Most of the work is what I'd characterize as "chore" work. Working in the woods or by the creek....picking up things and moving them to different areas. Firewood, landscaping, snow in the winter....that sort of thing. Not much traditional tractor work. For that kind of work, a TLB - tractor/loader/backhoe combo with R4 tires is a good fit. SSQA for the loader of course. And if you have a backhoe then please consider getting a thumb on it. Yes, they are horribly expensive, but it changes the entire nature of the beast from a digger into a "pickerup and placer". Very handy.

Anyway, to get back to my suggestion I'd like to recommend that you rent a tractor for one of these Indian Summer weeks we're having. I always recommend that and rarely does anyone do it. Maybe I'm explaining it wrong. But why not ask the dealer? He might be able to make it happen. And I am sure sure that you would learn more than you would ever believe possible. Ask for it with a loader and a back blade or box blade. Those are standard attachments, inexpensive...and everyone has them. Rent one and let us know what you think..
Luck,
rScotty

 

[Ellen B]

Thanks again for the help everyone! Bought the tractor and am very happy with it. I just thinned about 30 decent sized trees to get some more sun into what will be a pasture for the goats, so the tractor's job so far has been dragging logs up the hill. I've got the logs cut into 16' pieces so they probably weigh in the 1000-1500 pound range, too heavy to carry with the loader but it's having no problem dragging them around by lifting one end into the air with a chain. Then I'm carrying the 16" sections I'm bucking down to the pile where the splitter will be set up. Certainly makes life easier!

 

[JPB7745]

I glad you are enjoying the 2501, I'm sure this will be your favorite tool in the tool box!!

 

[check]

I agree with all of the comments. Look at the rear end of the L2501 vs. the B2650. Huge difference favouring the L2501.

 

[shooterdon]

You made a good choice! I like the 2501 as it offers good value and has a good reputation.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

Great choice on the 2501... make sure you load the rears and add some wheel weights, made all the difference in the world on my 3301.

 

[kendive]

I just sold my 2005 B7510 with 357 hours on it. I bought it used back in 2010 and it been a great tractor no issues but I wanted HST and a little bigger one. I also just bought a used 2501 (255 Hours) with the LA525 loader and quick attach front with bucket. I also got Forks, Grapple, Box Blade, Weight Box, Bush Hog , and Finish Mower (rough shape) for 14500 still getting use to the HST but love the tractor so far and a great upgrade from my first tractor the B7510.

I have the paper work for all the service and when the tires where filled with fluid at the dealer. It was bought local and I have talked to the dealer and let them know I am the owner now.

Here are some pics.