Open stations/Cabs and Post hole digging.

[Mad Dog Driver]

Greetings everyone. First post as a new member. I have been reading this site for a while. Some very good info for persons like myself trying to learn the safe way to operate a compact tractor.

I have spent some time searching the threads, and have not found any info about operating a cab compact with a post hole digger. I will shortly be purchasing a new L5740 open station or maybe the cab version. This will be my third tractor.

I have never operated an auger for digging post holes. I will soon start digging holes for about a mile of perimeter fence, with additional fencing to follow in the not to distance future.

You folks that have a cab version of a compact, are there any problems I should consider before buying a cab to be used for digging post hole?

There are numerous other project I will be working here on the farm with my soon to be new ride. Some I have experience with, discing, rotary cutter, FEL work, ect. Just never tried the post hole digging, or grapple work, which I will be also using the tractor for.

Any thoughts or suggestions I should consider before making the final purchase decision is greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Lee

 

[blueriver]

I use one with my cab tractor ... no problems. I like slower rpm's and don't sink the auger all the way down ... I dig and lift, dig and lift until I get the depth. Most important and you probably know this...its not a spectator sport, augers and pto's are life threating to anyone around them.

 

[acme97]

Remember that they do not have any downward press (just from the auger). Check the angle of the teeth on the bit point. You may want to explore a hydraulic post hole digger if your machine can handle it.

Second BR on safety! Never ever, let someone help around the machine! Make sure they stay out of range and in eye contact if they are there. Remember slow is ok when working around this stuff.

 

[Mad Dog Driver]

Thanks for the tips. That helps. I consider anything turning off the PTO to be potentially deadly for any persons or animals close by.

 

[SSdoxie]

I have open station tractor and auger has the handle on it facing forward but I never touch that handle. I use the handle to reference the auger position, if handle is lever the auger is vertical for a straight hole. I set the drop speed as slow as it will go, need for the gound conditions and use the bucket curl to gently move tractor foward and back to keep the auger straight. I ahve very easy digging except for tree roots so only dig at engine idle.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I don't have a cab on any of my tractors, but can't think of any good reasons that a cab would interfere with using a PHD.

As far as things to get, I would order the tractor with all 3 rear remotes, al least one of them with the float mode and the 3rd function remote for the grapple. Yes these cost a lot of money, but well worth it in the long run IMO.

Highly recommend Top and Tilt hydraulics for the 3pt hitch. You can make good use of the side Tilt cylinder when using the PHD to help make the auger plumb. I also highly recommend a down pressure kit for you PHD. This will pretty much take care of any difficult digging situations having to do with hard ground.

 

[Mad Dog Driver]

I am having the third function hydraulics added before delivery for the grapple. Thanks. Never heard of the top and tilt function. I will have to do a little more research. The extra hydraulics on the rear may be useful in the future. Hydraulic PHD may be the way to go.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am having the third function hydraulics added before delivery for the grapple. Thanks. Never heard of the top and tilt function. I will have to do a little more research. The extra hydraulics on the rear may be useful in the future. Hydraulic PHD may be the way to go.

You will appreciate them once you learn of all the advantages they allow for. It usually is less money to get the rear remotes at the time of the original purchase, especially if the tractor is being ordered and not on the lot.

Top and tilt hydraulics for the 3pt hitch are the way to go if you will be doing much grading at all. They allow for a much better job to be completed much faster and easier.

If you have a lot of roots, then it would be nice to have a hydraulic PHD to have the reverse. Even with a pto auger, if you are careful and only allow the auger to dig in about a foot at a time, you shouldn't have many problems. If you get either hydro or pto 3pt PHD, get the hydraulic down pressure kit, you will not be sorry.

Do a search on Top and Tilt ("TnT") cylinders here on TBN and you can read for months. Can't say as that I have ever read about anyone not liking them.

A complete set (2 1/2" dia hydraulics, hoses, flow restrictors) would run you $600 + shipping if you were purchase them from me.