Oops........neutral saftey switch?

[bindian]

I just cleared brush for about two hours and turned over 98.7 hours. I took a break and it wouldn't start. I always leave it in neutral. Now all I get is just normal prestart lights, but no green neutral light. I even messed around with the pto and clutch levers, but nothing.
Is there a way to jump the neutral saftey switch to verifly it is bad?..............and is the neutral saftey switch right below the speed shift lever??
hugs, Brandi

 

[TyDog]

The switch is right underneath the shifter on my 7520, just inside the right rear tire if my memory is correct. You have the 6520, correct? I have no idea on those but I would give my location a try. Mine went bad on the 7520 after around 50 or so hours. I had a 4500 4WD that brush pulled the wires loose once. It was underneath the chassis and much harder to get to.
If you can find the switch and the wires are still connected, remove / disconnect the wires from the switch and connect them together. If it starts then the switch is bad.
Anyone else with a 6520?
Kenny

 

[bindian]

My 6520 is just like your 7520, only no turbo to blow and a dinkier hyd. pump. Thank you none the less.
But alas, after I got cleaned up, took my 80 year old Mom to the doctor and started home, I let my mechanic's mind work without stress. I asked myself that all important mechanic's question.........What were you doing when it quit working?............. I was clearing brush and got into heavy, heavy vines and youpon. Then I thought..........a limb could be responsible, even a twig. I hurried home and changed clothes and knelt under the Big Red Beast and looked where the speed shift lever should be underneath and there it was.............a wire off of it's connection on the switch! I plugged it back in and cranked her up.
Now for the bad news........it is a bad design flaw and should be changed!!! Two little 16 guage wires hanging out in the breeze, waiting for something to yank their guts out. At least I know now you only have two wires to jump (three wires are way harder without a wiring diagram) and they just need to be jumped together to test for a bad switch!

 

[BamaRob]

It's great you got it going again so easily. I found a design imperfection (not necessarily a flaw, but definitely not perfect) on my 2615 4WD yesterday. The drain cock for the radiator is a plastic do-hicky that attaches to the frame behind the right front tire. I was grappling brush yesterday afternoon, and at some point the drain cock got broken by the brush and drained my radiator. Didn't notice it until the temp started going up. I never dreamed the radiator was empty, so I took the compressed air to the radiator fins and the air filter. Cleaned them good. Cranked the tractor and it ran great, but the temp started creeping back up. Just happened to look down and notice the drain hose hanging loose.

I picked up a nylon piece that the hoses can splice into to replace the drain cock. I'll then tie it in a more secure location with zip ties. The drain cock is convenient when you intend to drain the radiator, but it won't be too much trouble to loosen one small hose clamp instead.

Later,

BR

 

[bindian]

It's great you got it going again so easily. I found a design imperfection (not necessarily a flaw, but definitely not perfect) on my 2615 4WD yesterday. The drain cock for the radiator is a plastic do-hicky that attaches to the frame behind the right front tire. I was grappling brush yesterday afternoon, and at some point the drain cock got broken by the brush and drained my radiator. Didn't notice it until the temp started going up. I never dreamed the radiator was empty, so I took the compressed air to the radiator fins and the air filter. Cleaned them good. Cranked the tractor and it ran great, but the temp started creeping back up. Just happened to look down and notice the drain hose hanging loose.

I picked up a nylon piece that the hoses can splice into to replace the drain cock. I'll then tie it in a more secure location with zip ties. The drain cock is convenient when you intend to drain the radiator, but it won't be too much trouble to loosen one small hose clamp instead.

Later,

BR

I have had limbs puncture my old Ford's radiator hose and also shear a rear wheel valve stem off. I also found a limb right up against the fuel tank drain fitting on my 6520 the other day. Work a tractor hard and it can get hurt.
hugs, Brandi

 

[RedRiver]

I have had limbs puncture my old Ford's radiator hose and also shear a rear wheel valve stem off. I also found a limb right up against the fuel tank drain fitting on my 6520 the other day. Work a tractor hard and it can get hurt.
hugs, Brandi

Yep, once you get into heavy stuff it's easy for a lot of things to become "design flaws"....

 

[bindian]

Yep, once you get into heavy stuff it's easy for a lot of things to become "design flaws"....

At least on my tractor, these two little wires are not supported by anything, not even to each other. They are out in the open underneath. Anytime a mod has to be done to keep the tractor going........it is a design flaw. I will be, at least, securing the wires. I may have to cut and splice in longer wires and reroute it to make it safer. It should be at least in a conduit so it would stay plugged in.
hugs, Brandi