Oops, I think I killed my bale spike

[4570Man]

If the spear was bent it would be harder to straighten, but since it's not this will be an easy fix.

 

[Soundguy]

A close up of the damage would be good, but it looks to me like the bottom square tubing is rather thin wall to start with. May need to be chopped out and a thicker wall tubing or even a solid bar welded in and then the bail spike holders welded back on. Also it would seem to me the design puts a lot of stress in a small area with the spike holders just welded on there with such a small contact area. If the tubing that holds the spike was longer it would help.

Agreed... wow.. that looks wimpy.. I wouldn't even move 75# square bales with that thing...

My old tractor supply bale spear is all 3/8 metal and tubing and 1/2" supports. I can barely move the thing when it's not in the loader mount it's so heavy.

 

[Soundguy]

The red spear is the expensive part,,
If you make the black part stronger, the red part will bend, been there, done that.

Simply push the spear back into location, and weld the cracks.
If you insist on making the black frame stronger, order a new unit,, the stronger original will look like a pretzel,, soon.

the black part looks like it's as strong as cardboard... if I was keeping that ultra light duty spear, I'd be sure beefing up that lower rail..

 

[Eric Salop]

That third picture shows rust on the cracked edge, so it was partially cracked previously. With tubing that thin, I would cut off the pipe nipple and weld angle over the square tubing first.

Yes, it does indeed look like I first damaged it some time in the past. I was fortunate that it finally failed when I was the only one around around and not when I was loading big square bailed hay onto a customers pick up.

 

[Eric Salop]

Thanks for all your ideas. I will go with the suggestions to do a little re-design and probably replace the whole bottom rectangular tube with something a little thicker. I also like Egon's idea of welding onto the thicker side plate, so I will see if that can be incorporated too.

CADplan, I hear what you say about purposefully leaving a weak link, however I would kick myself if in turn the left spear then also failed at harvest time, when I could have possibly done something about it. At least bends are easier to see - especially if they are in something that is bright red

 

[Sodo]

That socket just welded onto the rectangle is kind of a funny "construction" for a production item. Maybe it is a 'fuse'.

Real easy repair. No need to cut out any tubing. Just grind off all any of the weld that might prevent it from going back into its hole. And grind a little more so the repair weld can penetrate. Use heat and a long pipe on the red spear. Weld it up again just as it was before, then add gussets. It will be much stronger. There are several good ways to do it that look good and if the original survived this long, gusseted will survive forever. Either of these are pretty easy. If it could survive at all, the way it was, 1/4" gussets will be fine. Or just use 3/8 for overkill.

Research has shown, if GLyford offers a solution...... :thumbsup:

This one front shown only but needs one on the rear too (so fabricate 4 brace parts)

8 brace parts. (4 flatbars & 4 front/rear)

 

[Wagtail]

Thanks for all your ideas. I will go with the suggestions to do a little re-design and probably replace the whole bottom rectangular tube with something a little thicker. I also like Egon's idea of welding onto the thicker side plate, so I will see if that can be incorporated too.

CADplan, I hear what you say about purposefully leaving a weak link, however I would kick myself if in turn the left spear then also failed at harvest time, when I could have possibly done something about it. At least bends are easier to see - especially if they are in something that is bright red

G'day Eric. If you're going to replace the entire rectangular tube then might I suggest that you make it so that you can drill/bore out holes and mount your spears through the tube. That is how my spears are mounted. It eliminates the potential weak-point of the weld.

 

[Soundguy]

And put some real metal on it for petes sake, that one looks like its made from kids lunch boxes!

 

[Gary Fowler]

Not only would I replace that thin wall tubing but also put on a doubler (1/4" x 4"x4" plate ) at the attachment point. Then put a good weld on the pipe connection to it, not more of that dirt dauber weld that is on it now. With proper material to spread the load and good welding, the designed attachment will hold. The OEM just made it cheap to sell and the welding looks like a beginner 12 year old put it on. Better check the rest of the welds while repairing.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Also when putting on the doubler, make at least one 1" hole in the center of the doubler and plug weld it to the tubing, that will make it much stronger than just laying it on top and welding all around.