Oil & Fuel On my way to 100

   / On my way to 100 #1  

k0ua

Epic Contributor
Joined
Jun 28, 2009
Messages
28,584
Location
Branson, Mo.
Tractor
Kioti DK35se Hydrostat
This weekend I tackled the 50 hour service on my new DK35seHydro tractor

All went well with the exception on the Hydraulic filter on the right hand side of the tractor.. I spent 2 hours in 90 degree heat trying to get that thing to spin off. I cursed the name of that unknown Korean "gentleman" with the big brawny arms that though that thing needed to be put on that tight. After trying 2 different oil filter wrenches, this wimpy office worker just did not have the strength to loosen it. I wound up drilling a 1/2 inch hole through it, and using a piece of 1/2 inch all thread about 3 foot long to break it loose. It bent the all thread, some but I got it loose enough in the 1/8 of a turn "window" I had between the step and the right tire to get back on it with the oil filter wrench and get it out. Putting the new one (full of new clean fluid) back in was fun too. That was the hardest part of the whole job. Lets's see, main drain plug 2 rear differential drain plugs, the hydraulic and the hydrostat filters, (you know the golden one, that cost's like it is made out of gold). Then the front axle 2 drain plugs, and refill everything. My plan was to use the pump to pump in the fluid without holding those nice heavy 5 gallong buckets up and slowly pouring in the fluid..Well that did not work, see pix of the pump. It would barely pump the oil, and would not pump it fast enough to do any good. Pretty much a waste of money. So I held up the 5 gallon buckets to the funnel and slowly poured in 10 gallons in the rear. Then filled the front I am not sure how much there but probably less than 2 gallons. I had the wife watch the sight glass on that one. I did use a clean dry 1 gallon distilled water jug as a transfer container on that one. The dollar general 62 quart Tote, worked well to catch all the oil, even the 10 gallons that poured out of the transmission and rear end. The front axle was drained into a smaller aluminum pan. The engine oil (two plugs) and filter went easy.. cleaned the air filter, greased the loader, and chassis Zerks. Tightened and checked all important fasteners including the wheels and loader bolts. Found a few sorta loose ones. It took me 2 partial days. Now I know why they want real money to do this. If the Hydraulic filter hadn't taken so much "starch" out of me, I probably could have done it all the first day. But it is still a lot of work in the heat. Also when crawling around under the tractor, I found a huge rats nest on top of the transmission all intertwined with the range selector linkage and electrical wires.. That was fun to remove.. the folding pocketknife shows the scale.

James K0UA
 

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   / On my way to 100 #2  
For future reference you do NOT have to fill the hydro filter, or any other filter prior to installing it.
The hydrostat filter is usually baked on at the factory when they paint the engine/trans, and using a chain wrench or large channel lock type professional oil wrench is usually in order.
Make sure you don't over-tighten the oil drain plugs or they could strip out in the pans. This is not uncommon for do it yourselfers according to my dealer.
 
   / On my way to 100
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Yes a good chain wrench would probably have worked for me, but I did not have one. Well I did get it off. It should be easier from now on. By the way the schedule in the manual leaves a lot to be desired.. I interpret it that at 100 hours and every 100 hours thereafter I need engine oil and filter. and hydraulic and hydrostat filters at 200 and every 200 thereafter, and at 400 change the hydraulic fluid and front diff. fluid and every 400 thereafter.. is that the way you see it?

James K0UA
 
   / On my way to 100 #4  
Okay, I'm a wimp... I'm gonna take it to the dealer for service after reading this. Right now my challenge seems to be to get the dealer to tell me a ball-park figure for how much, what it wil cost me to add another set of remotes, and when he would like me to drag it in. I've left messages three times with a promise of return calls, but no luck.

I want to deal with the folks I purchased it from- they were very helpful in going over everything - but the other dealer I spoke with is more than willing to take my money I think. They also service Ferris and I am in need of having my ZTR serviced also. I'll give it one more shot with the original dealer, then try the other folks.
 
   / On my way to 100
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Okay, I'm a wimp... I'm gonna take it to the dealer for service after reading this. Right now my challenge seems to be to get the dealer to tell me a ball-park figure for how much, what it wil cost me to add another set of remotes, and when he would like me to drag it in. I've left messages three times with a promise of return calls, but no luck.

I want to deal with the folks I purchased it from- they were very helpful in going over everything - but the other dealer I spoke with is more than willing to take my money I think. They also service Ferris and I am in need of having my ZTR serviced also. I'll give it one more shot with the original dealer, then try the other folks.

Well I didn't mean the post to try to discourage anyone from doing it themselves. It was hard work, at least for me, but hard work never hurt anyone:) The biggest part of the problem was that darn hydraulic filter. The hydrostat filter on the left side was easy, and the oil filter was easy. If I had a good chain wrench, it would probably have not been a problem. And next time I am NOT going to fill that darn hydraulic filter before screwing it on. Like a lot of things, if you are better prepared, it will go easier.:thumbsup:

James K0UA
 
   / On my way to 100 #6  
Yes the hydraulic filter is stupid tight but just stop at a good auto/truck supply shop and pick up a oil filter wrench for 1/2" drive ratchet/breaker bar, mine came right off with assistance from a cheeter pipe!! Take your new filter with you to be sure of the size but it is the same as most oil filters for class 8 trucks and large industrial engines. As far as not filling you hydraulic suction filter, suit yourself but your pump has to pull that volume of air through it and pumps don't like to pull air. CJ
 
   / On my way to 100 #7  
I used a pipe wrench on my HST filter which made it easier and I ended up borrowing a neat set of vice grips with a chain from my neighbor for the hyd filter. I put the replacement hyd and engine filter on by hand and gave the hst filter a little extra with the pipe wrench but no where near as tight as it was.
Next time it should go pretty fast as now I have my oil drain pans figured out and how to refill every thing.
 
   / On my way to 100 #8  
Well I didn't mean the post to try to discourage anyone from doing it themselves. It was hard work, at least for me, but hard work never hurt anyone:) :thumbsup:

James K0UA

Nope, it doesn't discourage me, but since I also want to add another remote, it makes sense to me to let the dealer have the pleasure. He finally phoned and it's a reasonable price to do the service and add the remote. I also ask if he charged extra for me to watch and he said only if I tried to help...:eek:

I'm taking it over on Monday.
 
   / On my way to 100
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Nope, it doesn't discourage me, but since I also want to add another remote, it makes sense to me to let the dealer have the pleasure. He finally phoned and it's a reasonable price to do the service and add the remote. I also ask if he charged extra for me to watch and he said only if I tried to help...:eek:

I'm taking it over on Monday.

do you mind saying how much he charges in labor for the service?

James K0UA
 
   / On my way to 100 #10  
$180 for the service, including oil and filters- I'll have to see the bill to see what the breakdown is, and $500 fo parts and labor to add the 2nd set of rear remotes.
 

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