Older Stihl getting hard to start

[Buty]

Guys, I have a 13 year old Stihl 180MS-C (easy start) When it was new it required 2 pulls to start. When it was 5 years it took 5 or 6 pulls. Now it's 13 years and I pull about 10-20 times. Sometimes I smell gas so it's flooded. I've changed plugs and run Staybil and Techron additives (always have) BTW, I've read that leaving rubber fuel lines dry will harden/crack them so I have always topped off the tank when it sits for 2-4 months.
Do I need a carb rebuild or a new saw? Thanks

Your Stihl MS180's hard starting and flooding issues are likely due to a worn or dirty carburetor. Consider a carburetor rebuild with a kit like Zama RB77 to replace worn parts. If the problem persists, inspect the engine's compression and spark to rule out other issues. Rebuilding is cost-effective if the saw is otherwise in good condition.

 

[Kubotafan]

I'll second a vote for a battery saw of similar size. I own two 180's. Nice easy start saws but not very powerful.
I also own two 660's. They have seemed to put on a lot of weight in the last 5 years.

I had a sore shoulder so bought a 16" bar Milwaukee saw too, and have been impressed with how it works. I have 2 8amph and 1 12amph batteries so that will keep the saw going as long as I want to go before they and I both need recharging. I have just bought an 8amph FORGE battery but haven't used it yet. I have a Milwaukee string trimmer and a pole saw attachment, so the batteries can be used with them. My son is a red seal carpenter with many Milwaukee tools, so can also use my batteries in an emergency if he needs extra power. My gas days for these tools is past.

 

[lhfarm]

Check out Chickanic She has taught me a lot.

She posted this a couple of years ago, and it changed the way I start my chainsaws.

You will note she says she doesn't have a fix for your easy-start. However, she has lots of videos on changing fuel lines etc.

 

[Reapoman]

Most everyone here is saying it’s a fuel issue. A possible air leak likely as well. Check the rubber boot between the carb and cylinder. That boot generally has accordion like folds and is susceptible cracking. A crack is hard to see on a bottom fold unless you really look closely or remove the boot and inspect it. These cracks form when the saw gets pinched and the user levers the saw back and forth trying to free it.

Also my 1992 stihl 044 has never developed a fuel related carb issue. The carbs never been rebuilt and I keep gas stored I the tank always. Even in the off season. The only exception is when I run out gas and I just don’t refill it until the next use. I use non oxy gas available at a local station and Stilh 2 cycle oil. And this saw still runs like a beast. At times the set screws would vibrate and need an adjustment. After replacing the runner boot that holds them in place from being hardened over the years it’s been good. The same goes with my boat I purchased in 88. Same gas and Stihl oil. Gas has been sitting in the carbs for almost 40 years strait. I only use my boat about 5 times a year or less. It fires right up every time. The same goes with all of my small engines never having carb issues with local non oxy gas. I have 3 lawn tractors, 2 pressure washers, 3 generators, wood splitter, 4 wheeler, golf cart, 2 chainsaws and boat. I live in Mn so most of these things sit several months without being used.

To each his own, I’d never pay the $$ for pre mixed canned gas. They’re selling you the same thing you can pre mix yourself, much cheaper.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

I had a 034 that was hard starting. Someone suggested blowing the vent lines clear. I did that with moderate pressure air and if fixed the problem.

 

[satu]

Guys, I have a 13 year old Stihl 180MS-C (easy start) When it was new it required 2 pulls to start. When it was 5 years it took 5 or 6 pulls. Now it's 13 years and I pull about 10-20 times. Sometimes I smell gas so it's flooded. I've changed plugs and run Staybil and Techron additives (always have) BTW, I've read that leaving rubber fuel lines dry will harden/crack them so I have always topped off the tank when it sits for 2-4 months.
Do I need a carb rebuild or a new saw? Thanks

Have a 20 year old MS250 Stihl that was starting hard and running rough. After much tweaking, I replaced the ignition coil. Starts right up and runs like new. Never gave it a thought. Always figured it was a fuel issue.

 

[eco88]

I had the same issue last year with my ms170.
Bought a new fuel filter and a new carb off amazon, cheap Chinese carb for $15. First one is had to return because the saw wouldn't stop running, 2nd $15 carb from a different seller worked perfectly. Been a year now and starts with second pull every time.
10minute job and $15 part, and she's like new.

 

[Gord Baker]

Guys, I have a 13 year old Stihl 180MS-C (easy start) When it was new it required 2 pulls to start. When it was 5 years it took 5 or 6 pulls. Now it's 13 years and I pull about 10-20 times. Sometimes I smell gas so it's flooded. I've changed plugs and run Staybil and Techron additives (always have) BTW, I've read that leaving rubber fuel lines dry will harden/crack them so I have always topped off the tank when it sits for 2-4 months.
Do I need a carb rebuild or a new saw? Thanks

Drain and discard all the old fuel. Put a cupful of 2 stroke mix in the tank. ONLY use full Choke for 1 Pull. Sounds like it is flooded when you try to start it.

 

[farmboy666]

D

Have you replaced the spark plug?
Plugs should be replaced regularly and can cause all kinds of problems with starting and running.

Did you read the post?

 

[kenhar]

All good things come to an end. Regular maintenance is one thing but rebuilding a machine a piece at a time don't compute. Ethanol in small engines is a death sentence. Use real high octane gas.

 

[WinterDeere]

All good things come to an end. Regular maintenance is one thing but rebuilding a machine a piece at a time don't compute. Ethanol in small engines is a death sentence. Use real high octane gas.

Not untrue, but I think we're miles from this on any reasonably maintained Stihl 180MS-C. They're just not that old.

Some of my saws are nearing 40 years of age, and I still put more hours on them every year than almost any other homeowner / DIY'er. Hell, my 064 is stamped "Made in West Germany". West Germany! West Germany ceased to exist in 1989!

 

[Page2]

Bad/ weak coil. Replace coil, sand rust from flywheel, set correct air gap.

 

[kenhar]

Not untrue, but I think we're miles from this on any reasonably maintained Stihl 180MS-C. They're just not that old.

Some of my saws are nearing 40 years of age, and I still put more hours on them every year than almost any other homeowner / DIY'er. Hell, my 064 is stamped "Made in West Germany". West Germany! West Germany ceased to exist in 1989!

View attachment 3241118

I have a Husqvarna 266 I bought new (1984 model) and it still screams. It seems to be heavier than it used to be but still runs almost like new. Several old guns from the 60's and 70's that are much better than new ones today, but they have been taken care of. Old don't mean junk if it has been taken care of regularly. Don't buy a new car because the ash tray is full. Neglect and lack of proper and regular maintenance is death on any machine. A grease gun makes any farmer money if it's used regularly.

 

[Hay Dude]

D

Did you read the post?

Do you know spark plugs can be defective right out of the box?

 

[charlessenf]

Guys, I have a 13 year old Stihl 180MS-C (easy start) When it was new it required 2 pulls to start.

Prostate?

 

[etpm]

Prostate?

After 2 years of chemo and hormone treatment plus radiation for stage 4 prostate cancer survivor I can relate.
Eric

 

[gckshea]

Guys, I have a 13 year old Stihl 180MS-C (easy start) When it was new it required 2 pulls to start. When it was 5 years it took 5 or 6 pulls. Now it's 13 years and I pull about 10-20 times. Sometimes I smell gas so it's flooded. I've changed plugs and run Staybil and Techron additives (always have) BTW, I've read that leaving rubber fuel lines dry will harden/crack them so I have always topped off the tank when it sits for 2-4 months.
Do I need a carb rebuild or a new saw? Thanks

Probably rubber carb/fuel parts need replacing, but before you go there, always start your diagnosis with compression check. If that's good then proceed.
The carb should either be rebuilt with a new diaphragm, or replaced (extreme, but carbs are cheap if you're ok with non-OEM).
Change out fuel lines, primer bulb. Check spark to assess if coil is producing.
New Air filter.

That pretty much covers what degrades over time: Fuel, Spark, Air. All three should be addressed. And....new fresh gas, non-ethanol!!!!

 

[CalG]

When I raced two stroke motorbikes, a "crisp" new piston ring always made for better starting.

Presently, my Mac 10-10 is starting hard. I can feel the softness on the starter rope. I may make a re-ring job part of the summer schedule.

I'm in process for a log truck load of fuel wood, and that Mac sure whittles through the big logs in a hurry.

 

[JRH02]

Two cycle engines that are losing compression are exactly the symptoms you complaining about.