Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe

   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe #22  
This may be what you are dealing with. All down hole pumps with sucker rods that I have seen and worked on had a down hole piston assembly which in your case I believe is screwed/attached to the 2" dischare pipe. It appears to me your 2" pipe is likely in a larger casing. The piston is attached to the sucker rod. In a pressure system as you are describing the sucker rod had to have packing or seal of some kind to keep the water from flowing out the top. What I am having a problem with is the wooden connection rod. Don't know how a wooden sucker rod would be sealed. Most all the windmills had a wooden conection rod and was attached to a steel sucker rod. The only way the steel sucker rod could fall in the well was if the whole piston assembly fell off. Some of the old hand pumps had packing, but were pretty rare.

Back in the day when every house mostly had hand pumps, there were a lot of pulling tools available. Haven't seen any in years. Sure was nice having a windmill tower to work from. It sure looks to me like you have a "modernized" hand pump from the 40's maybe 50's. May be time to modernize 1 more time.


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   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe #23  
When you say its a 2" well pipe, do you mean the diameter of the pipe attached to the handpump, or do you mean the size of the pipe going into the ground?

All you need to do is pull up the handpump body to retrieve the parts. For example, I have a 4" windmill well casing (the outer pipe). Into this pipe goes a 2" inner pipe which has a brass cylinder screwed to the end. The cylinder has the pump piston (sealed by leather piston rings) capped within it. Attached to the end of the piston rod are the sucker rods either wood, iron or plastic. The inner pipe is held in place and at depth by the amount of pipe clamped at the end of the handpump up on top. The hand crank on the pump is attached to the top end of the top sucker rod. So, to retrieve a fallen sucker rod, all you need to do is pull up on the handpump and grab the sections of the feed pipe as they come up. Keep this process going until you pull the brass cylinder up out of the casing.

If the well casing is 2", then the inner pipe is probably 1" and the cylinder is 1.5", etc. Its essentially the same as a modern electric immersion pump, instead of wires you have sucker rods. There is a casing and an inner feed pipe.

If you have "lost" the feed pipe (along with the cylinder and the sucker rods), then you are hoping to grab the inner lining of the feed pipe with a fish wire. Older wooden sucker rods are joined by an iron "H" type of bracket, so fishing is fairly easy. Newer ones are threaded. You pull up on the fish wire and hope that the cylinder and the feed pipe are not stuck in the mud and gravel at the bottom of the casing.

If you know that the inner pipe is OK (but down the well a few feet), you can see it. Then you can jam a pointed wooden 'stick' into it and pull it up. Windmill cylinders are usually placed just a few feet above the bottom of the casing, so that allows you to shine a light down the hole to see the feed pipe.

Sorry if this sounds a bit rambling, but I've had to grab a few feed pipes in many different ways. Each installer set the windmill well up in ther own way.

Hopefully you get the drift.

Then you can change out the feed pipe and sucker rod sections as necessary. There are a few windmillers around who still sell hex white ash sucker rods $4.00 to $6.00 a foot, depending on size. You are expected to buy either 120' or 180' of total length, with various individual lenghts in a package.
 
   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe #24  
What I am having a problem with is the wooden connection rod.

You would have a steel rod passing though a stuffing box to seal the top end.:)

You should be able to see the stuffing box or packing gland in the photos
 
   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe
  • Thread Starter
#25  
I have the steel parts for the top. The very tip looks like a mini horse head and just below that are a set of leathers, then a coupler to attach to the wooden sucker rod.

All that is taken apart in the pictures you see now.

I will take more pictures and post when I get back out there.
 
   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe #26  
There are a few windmillers around who still sell hex white ash sucker rods $4.00 to $6.00 a foot, depending on size. You are expected to buy either 120' or 180' of total length, with various individual lenghts in a package.

To be honest if I had to pay that much for the rod and had electric available I would put a submersible pump in. I do understand for the wind mills using them. But for a set up like the pictures from the OP like i said would putting in a submersible first chance I'd could get.
 
   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe #27  
Absolutely:

Grundfos 2 Inch Pump

This one is almost $1,500. Ouch !

I'd put chimney cleaning rods in for sucker rod material first....
 
   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe #28  
   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe #29  
I am looking forward to more pictures. If your pump works as I think, I would do away with the wooden pitman and just use a short length of chain to couple between the power pitman and the sucker rod. Never worked on many packed/pressure pumps, but all the windmill and handpumps I worked with had down strokes that were non powered (gravity down) In the event that you do need power down a simple piece strap iron with the appropriate holes drilled should do the job.

Most of my pump work was back when I was a youngster and furnishing the muscle and the climbing ability in the case of windmills. Hope my memory don't lead you down the wrong path. I was told many years ago by a man who was considered an expert; the reason for the wood connection between the power and sucker rod on windmills was the lightweight and acted a bit like a shear pin.
 
   / Old Water Well - Sucker Rod Down The Pipe
  • Thread Starter
#30  
A-ha! I got back to the farm today and dug around the base of the pipe that goes into the concrete and found a little mound of what looks like old, hardened roofing cement over a lead sheet cut to go around the down pipe.

I pulled this stuff back and found the outer casing or what appears to be a casing or at least the well wall.

I was able to move the down pipe pretty easily. Looks like around 2 1/4".

Now I need to figure out how to pull up the down pipe....
 

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