Old Barn Repair, ideas wanted.....

[mooseracing]

Like all extremely cheap hobby farmers I have an old barn, ~100 yrs or so. And like alot of owners, the PO didn't take good care of it.

So that brings me to the front sill beam. The PO didn't want gutters apparently and was ok with the water splashing and rotting out the sill beam at the ramp/doors and ruining the floor beams.

The posts going up to the roof are still in good shape. Every thing I read says to replace the entire length of the sill. It's going to be really hard to find something that long unless I do a 2xX glued/screwed/staggered.

Would it really be that bad to replace this crappy section, then use metal plates to tie it to the posts, beams, and rest of the sill.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Would it really be that bad to replace this crappy section, then use metal plates to tie it to the posts, beams, and rest of the sill.

I'm as interested as you to see the responses as I'm not an engineer, architect, or carpenter. My first thought is that if you do replace only a section, be sure to do it over a support. I.e. don't leave the joint hanging in mid air.

 

[BeezFun]

Is there a crawlspace or lower level? I can't tell what photo #4 is, is it looking straight down at the floor? What are the floor joists made out of and how are they supported along their length?

If I understand what I'm looking at, the sill plate and joists are resting directly on some kind of foundation. Are the vertical wall elements resting on the sill? This is one case where a simple sketch might help more than a photo.

 

[dave1949]

I can't tell either if there is usable space below the floor. It looks like stringers laid on the ground to support the floor boards.

If there is no usable space below the floor, I would look at what you might do with concrete.
Dave.

 

[Rustyiron]

Looks like a regular old "bank barn" I don't see any prob. replacing only the rotten part of the sill, prolly most of the rot is in the center at the door area where the door is (was). As for the floor beams (joists) you could go back (towards the center beam) to solid wood and "sandwich" the old beam with some new timber on each side, attached with some heavy thru bolts. Going all the way back and bearing on the center beam would be better, this would only require a timber next to any rotten beams.

 

[mooseracing]

Yep sorry, every barn around here is this style...... There is the lower half in the ground, cement floors, and stone foundation.

Picture #4 is correct, lookign down at the floor. The floor beams/joist (sorry don't know terminology) look like they were mortised (?) into the old sill, which I Would do if I can find some beams.

I haven't had good luck tracking down old beams that aren't worth gold, tele poles; so I may jsut be going the route of treated 6x6 from the limber yard.

I'm trying to figure why they replace a whole sill? I figure if I tie the replacement piece back to the old sill with steel plate and large bolts it should be acting like one large piece.

I'll try and see if I can get a picture from the bottom too, I don't have much lighting down there though.

 

[Carl_NH]

Mooseracing,

I had the idnetical problem with my barn 20 yrs ago on another property. Basically the entrance sill rotted away.

Also in my case the floor joists were 6-8" round pine 2' on center so it was "springy" to say the least.

Solution: It looks like you have a bow in the middle so first: Get underneath and on the bottom side of the floor on the left and right sides put a wood plate 2x10 x 18" long as a pad then jack up the floor so its about level.

Get a 2x12 x length and cut it in between the back joists and attach (lag bolt) to the existing cross beam. You might need to add a support under this depending how "springy" your floor is now. Then run some 2x8 or 2x10 PT sttingers along the existing joists with joist hangers on the cross beam in the back and then rest them on the front barn wall.

Then install a new double header PT 2x8 or 2x10 as the sill plate then put your new boards down. I sort of marked up your first photo.. The red are the front and back joists and the black are the "sisters" for the existing joists.

The 2x dimensions I used are approximate use what ever seems logical but I would not use less than a 2x8 sister joists if possible.

Its not hard, just hard work.

 

[mooseracing]

The bow is from those joists being shot for the first 3ft, I am planning on pulling them all out and replacing them along with that section of floor about to the back red line your drew in the picture. It may take a little longer but they need to come out, and the floor needs some work anyways, so somewhat easier. As that is where those joist connect perpendicular to another beam running the distance of the barn, that is the middle.

Do you think 2x's would be enough? I was planning on 6x6's so they were dimensionally close to the logs that were there. I would like to be able to at least get my big truck (~7500lb's) in there if I need to work on it.

I wish I could get pictures of the other side, I'm not sure if they ground grain up there (texture of the floor looks different) or what, but all the tree joists are curved down. I'm debating on pulling that floor out and leaving it out so I could put a hoist in the bottom for easier vehicle repair. But I have to quit starting projects, I have too many.

 

[Carl_NH]

OK - Understood,

Do you plan to rip up the flooring and put in a completely new floor or do you intend to work from the bottom side?

If you plan to work from the bottom side, I would jack it up and crown it 1/4" higher, and put in 2- 2x10 or 2x12 12" on center then rip out the old beams.

If your main center beam is big 12" deep and stong enough to support joist hangers then run 2x10's or 12's every 12" OC. The key will be the joist hanger on the center beam and if it is deep enough you could lag a 2x4 on the bottom in addition to the joist hangers supporting under the new joists.

Rather than a 6x6 you would be better off with two 2x10s laminated together and if you want you could make a beam using 3/4" plywood sandwich in the middle and gluing/nailing together.

I dont know your span but mine was 14' so we used 2x12's 12" OC and it was strong - I had an 71 F250 with a plow (roughly 6000lbs) and didnt bother it..

 

[crbr]

Good thread