Oil question for front axle

   / Oil question for front axle #21  
The shop mechanic at my dealership told me that Kubota uses SUDT to fill the axles, and that’s what they use in the shop, but Kubota also approves 80W-90 gear oil for that function. He said either meets specs, but if I decide to change to gear oil, drain and replace. Don’t mix fluids. I assume the situation is similar for Kioti.
 
   / Oil question for front axle #22  
Our approach to this issue is related to heat generated by the Gearbox / Drivetrain.

For all small high speed gearboxes, we use 80/90 gear oil, or 90w Synthetic. These gearboxes; mowers, tillers, etc. generate a tremendous amount of heat pretty quickly. Most of these gearboxes are speed increasers to the output shaft, which generate enough heat to require the heavier viscosity lubricants that can hold up to high speed outputs.

For the front axle of the KIOTI Tractors, we use the ISO32 Trans / Hydraulic fluid. The front axle drive systems do not generate enough heat to justify a heavy viscosity lubricant, and in most cases stay "cold" during winter use. In addition, the cavities of the bevel gear and axle cases require the lubricant to flow readily in the case. During the winter weather, it is almost impossible to drain 80/90 gear oil from a front axle case completely. We have had instances where it took overnight even in the shop for the 80/90 to drain. KIOTI factory fills the front axles with the ISO32 UTF, we maintain this when we do fluid changes.

So for us:
High Speed - Heat generating Gearboxes -> 80/90 Gear Oil
Low Speed - Low Heat Front Axle Drives -> ISO32 UTF

This approach has worked well for us.
 
   / Oil question for front axle #24  
Our approach to this issue is related to heat generated by the Gearbox / Drivetrain.

For all small high speed gearboxes, we use 80/90 gear oil, or 90w Synthetic. These gearboxes; mowers, tillers, etc. generate a tremendous amount of heat pretty quickly. Most of these gearboxes are speed increasers to the output shaft, which generate enough heat to require the heavier viscosity lubricants that can hold up to high speed outputs.

For the front axle of the KIOTI Tractors, we use the ISO32 Trans / Hydraulic fluid. The front axle drive systems do not generate enough heat to justify a heavy viscosity lubricant, and in most cases stay "cold" during winter use. In addition, the cavities of the bevel gear and axle cases require the lubricant to flow readily in the case. During the winter weather, it is almost impossible to drain 80/90 gear oil from a front axle case completely. We have had instances where it took overnight even in the shop for the 80/90 to drain. KIOTI factory fills the front axles with the ISO32 UTF, we maintain this when we do fluid changes.

So for us:
High Speed - Heat generating Gearboxes -> 80/90 Gear Oil
Low Speed - Low Heat Front Axle Drives -> ISO32 UTF

This approach has worked well for us.
Very helpful insight. since i live in cold environment, and if i chose to change this fluid next service, how do you recommending swap without contamination from old 80/90 wright.
 
   / Oil question for front axle #25  
Very helpful insight. since i live in cold environment, and if i chose to change this fluid next service, how do you recommending swap without contamination from old 80/90 wright.
IMHO, if you let it drain long enough, there shouldn't be enough 'contamination' to get excited about.

Unless it's below zero or sumpthin. I think using your own good judgement would be fine.
 
   / Oil question for front axle #26  
I've used Mobil 1 75/90 synthetic fluid in the front axle of my tractor since 1st oil change and in the gear boxes of the Caroni flail and Rad blizzard B74 snow blower since new. Nothing has come apart Oooops, changed my font?
 
Last edited:
   / Oil question for front axle #27  
My tractor calls for transmission/ hydraulic oil in the front differential as well, that's what the manual called for that's what she got... automatic oil is basically hydraulic oil so I woulnt think it would hurt putting the ATF in, but I am no expert. The question I will ask is if something happen to the front differential can the dealer tell the difference? because if the dealer can sniff a reason to not pay, they will.
 
   / Oil question for front axle #28  
Very helpful insight. since i live in cold environment, and if i chose to change this fluid next service, how do you recommending swap without contamination from old 80/90 wright.
Contamination is too "harsh" of a description for having residual 80/90 when adding UTF. Get the tractor someplace at room temperature long enough to warm the oil. Lift the front axle off the ground. On the DKSE Tractors, pull all 3 fill ports, (1) each on the top of the axle cases, and the main port on the differential case. Pull the drain plugs on the bottom of the axle cases and allow the oil to drain. Occasionally tip the front axle side to side, and spin the wheel assemblies to assist in draining each side completely. Let the fluid drain to the point that the dripping stops...could take a while (overnight ?). After this, the amount of residual oil in the case would not be enough to cause any issues with adding UTF.

Hope this helps...
 
   / Oil question for front axle #29  
Re:michigan iron post. Thanks. However I live in Texas and operate regularly for many hours with ambient temps above 100f; May-sep. Winter for us is only 2-3 months and without snowblowing requirements I only use my tractor for odd jobs, and very rarely below freezing. I imagine that’s why kioti says use either hydraulic OR 80w90.
 
   / Oil question for front axle #30  
Contamination is too "harsh" of a description for having residual 80/90 when adding UTF. Get the tractor someplace at room temperature long enough to warm the oil. Lift the front axle off the ground. On the DKSE Tractors, pull all 3 fill ports, (1) each on the top of the axle cases, and the main port on the differential case. Pull the drain plugs on the bottom of the axle cases and allow the oil to drain. Occasionally tip the front axle side to side, and spin the wheel assemblies to assist in draining each side completely. Let the fluid drain to the point that the dripping stops...could take a while (overnight ?). After this, the amount of residual oil in the case would not be enough to cause any issues with adding UTF.

Hope this helps...
thanks for your help.
 

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