Oil pump under timing cover?

[quicksandfarmer]

Folks --

It looks like I need a new oil pump, I have zero pressure and spinning the engine with the filter off produces nothing. It looks like dropping the sump is going to be a bear of a job. Eyeballing the underside, the front transaxle is bolted to the sump pan, and the bell housing is bolted to the back of the sump pan -- there are no exposed bolt heads along the back edge. So removing the sump means splitting the tractor and removing the front transaxle, or essentially removing the engine from the tractor.


I came across this thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/chinese-tractors/79227-no-oil-pressure-jm354.html

Where bluechip wrote: "by the way, if this is 3 cylinder ty395 engine, the oil pump is under the front timing cover."

Now, I don't have the ty395, but the Yangdong Y485. Is there a way I can tell if the timing cover is a way in? It's the only thing that makes sense now.

My parts manual is no help as it shows a different configuration, with a hatch in the bottom of the sump pan and four exposed bolts at the back.

Thanks.

 

[Affordable]

You are going to have to split the tractor if you have the 1- piece oil sump, the oil pump is in the sump.The bolts holding the rear of the oil sump are inside the fylwheel housing.Not sure how many hours you have on the tractor, but this will also be a good time to take a look at the clutch discs.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Thanks. So I'm thinking that to do this, I'll need an engine hoist, because the engine needs to be disconnected at the front and the back and the bottom taken off. So it needs to be held from above. Hoist the engine, remove the front transaxle. Then hold the engine while I split the tractor.

Ordinarily, the way you split is to block the engine in place and roll the rear of the tractor away. I'm thinking that in this case it might be easier to block the rear and move the front with the engine hoist. Thoughts?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

OK, I split the tractor but I'm having a devil of a time with the two screws that connect the flywheel housing to the sump. I had to get a mirror and a flashlight because they are in a hole about 4" deep. They look like allen heads but I can't get a wrench to fit them. The 8mm doesn't go in and the 7mm spins. Could it be 7.5mm? Where in the world would I find a 7.5 mm allen wrench?

 

[Affordable]

They do make metric Allen wrenchs in half sizes ,on the ones we have removed the oil sump had bolts behind the flywheel.I guess it does not matter if they are bolts or Allen heads.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Youe Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Well, I got the sump off today. For those who follow me: there are four bolts that hold the sump to the flywheel housing. They're behind the flywheel and you have to take it off.

What had me puzzled is that there are actually six holes through the housing and into the sump. Two of them are unused, even though the holes into the sump are threaded. I thought they were Allen head bolts but my eyes were playing tricks on me, there was actually nothing there. Once all the bolts were off some persuasion with a cold chisel was necessary to break the gasket.

Also, I was mistaken about the front end having to be removed. The front end is held to the engine by a bracket on each side. Each bracket has six bolts, with four going into the sump pan and two going into the engine block. If you remove the bracket on one side and the four sump bolts on the other, you can leave the front end attached. You still have to support the engine from above but the front wheels take some of the weight and provide support and balance.