oil pressure low
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bluechip
Veteran Member
What oil did you use? how low is low? specs call for minimum .05 kpa at idle, .2-.4 at operating speed. If you used sigle weight oil, like straight 30w. it will thin as it warms and the pressure will drop.
There is a regulator on the filter housing but it will not increase the pressure above what the pump puts out.
Use a good 15w40 oil will reduce the effect of temperature on the oil pressure.
There is a regulator on the filter housing but it will not increase the pressure above what the pump puts out.
Use a good 15w40 oil will reduce the effect of temperature on the oil pressure.
SevenCorners
Silver Member
Mine did the same thing when I changed the oil and filter. I put high quality Shell 15w40 and my oil pressure noticably decreased. At first I thought I did not add enough oil but after checking it several times found it fine. There was a posting a while back about someone having to adjust their oil pressure. I am not sure what the outcome was though. You might do a search for it here on TBN
Yeah, I changed to 15W40 and thats when it dropped, and like you I thought I remembered somebody else with the same problem and a solution. All I know is the stuff I drained out looked pretty dirty but held the pressure up. Now with a oil change and new filter I get the pressure drop.
I don't understand all I know about this!
Billy
I don't understand all I know about this!
Billy
SevenCorners
Silver Member
Billy, just my 2 cents but if it aint broke don't fix. I have run mine with new oil for 8 hours and it has not improved in pressure, I was thinking a, the sending unit is broken or not operating correctly or b, the oil pressure is truely low. Like you the stuff that came out of it was black gunk and it only had 8 hours of use. The new oil is still clean, and it has 8 hours. It is very hard to see on the dipstick. Go figure???
tillerkiller
Silver Member
An oil change will usually lower the oil pressure because the new oil that you put in is thinner than the oil you drained out. All oil thickens while it runs around in your engine. Synthetic oil does not thicken hardly at all however.
Anyhoo, if your oil pressure is too low (whether or not as a result of an oil change) you could be doing expensive damage to your engine so you need to be sure that you have the rated oil pressure at the rated speed (you typically have lower oil pressure at lower speeds so there will be a pressure listed for a certain speed).
Anyhoo, if your oil pressure is too low (whether or not as a result of an oil change) you could be doing expensive damage to your engine so you need to be sure that you have the rated oil pressure at the rated speed (you typically have lower oil pressure at lower speeds so there will be a pressure listed for a certain speed).
California
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( the stuff that came out of it was black gunk and it only had 8 hours of use. -SevenCorners )</font>
8 hours shouldn't make gunk. I wonder if they keep costs down by using reclaimed oil for that initial fill.
Worse yet, it just ocurred to me: I wonder if this is the Jinma factory's hazardous waste disposal plan!
8 hours shouldn't make gunk. I wonder if they keep costs down by using reclaimed oil for that initial fill.
Worse yet, it just ocurred to me: I wonder if this is the Jinma factory's hazardous waste disposal plan!
greg_g
Super Member
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- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
Hard tellin' what kinda crap was in the crankcase originally, and I've been wholly under-impressed with Chinese filters. Your initial pressure could have been as a result of sludge and/or a blocked bypass valve.
Everybody has their personal preference in oil and filters. The main thing is to use a filter that is specified for use on diesel engines. I wouldn't use one that has all gasoline engine applications. And make sure the Service Rating on the oil starts with C.
Then adjust the oil pressure sending unit. It's a pressure rheostat (a round silver thing) sticking out of the engine block, lower left side. One wire comes off it, heading up towards the dash. Rotating it left will lower the indicated oil pressure, right will indicate higher. With the (cold) engine OFF and the ignition switch to RUN, rotate the OPSU so the needle is dead center on the zero pressure mark. That should calibrate it for future reference.
Just so there's no confusion though, this has NO affect on the actual oil pressure itself. The procedure is simply to adjust the OPSU for the most accurate indication on the gauge.
//greg//
Everybody has their personal preference in oil and filters. The main thing is to use a filter that is specified for use on diesel engines. I wouldn't use one that has all gasoline engine applications. And make sure the Service Rating on the oil starts with C.
Then adjust the oil pressure sending unit. It's a pressure rheostat (a round silver thing) sticking out of the engine block, lower left side. One wire comes off it, heading up towards the dash. Rotating it left will lower the indicated oil pressure, right will indicate higher. With the (cold) engine OFF and the ignition switch to RUN, rotate the OPSU so the needle is dead center on the zero pressure mark. That should calibrate it for future reference.
Just so there's no confusion though, this has NO affect on the actual oil pressure itself. The procedure is simply to adjust the OPSU for the most accurate indication on the gauge.
//greg//
SPIKER
Elite Member
mine never worked correctly (oil gauge) so I replaced it with a elcheapo 9 buck dirrect PSI reading gauge, this way I KNOW what the pressure is and how it is working all the time... COLD above 60 degrees ambiant starting pressure at idle is ~75 PSI, warm idle it is ~60 PSI, below freezing high idel it runs ~90 PSI and warm back to the ~60 PSI
PTO speed the pressure warm is ~65PSI
hope that helps...
Markm /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
OH forgot to say mine has the independant gauges and I'm GLAD it does!
PTO speed the pressure warm is ~65PSI
hope that helps...
Markm /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
OH forgot to say mine has the independant gauges and I'm GLAD it does!
greg_g
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Mark
FWIW, Jinma specs indicate your Y385 is engineered to develop 58 psi of oil pressure at 1300 rpm (warm).
Sounds like 9 bucks well spent.
That below zero PSI is a very good example of why the right oil filter is so important. I prefer not to think of the wrong bypass valve recycling unfiltered oil in the direction of the cold upper cylinders.
//greg//
FWIW, Jinma specs indicate your Y385 is engineered to develop 58 psi of oil pressure at 1300 rpm (warm).
Sounds like 9 bucks well spent.
That below zero PSI is a very good example of why the right oil filter is so important. I prefer not to think of the wrong bypass valve recycling unfiltered oil in the direction of the cold upper cylinders.
//greg//
Thanks Spiker, I'll keep your solution in mind. You know, I think these tractors all have a problem with the fluids. My hydraulic system was full of something that foamed like hell. Finally blew so much out I had to replace it and cleaned the filter which was full of trash, and after that the system works fine. Now I am wondering whats in the transmision. Molasas probably!
Billy
Billy
SevenCorners
Silver Member
I second it, Spiker what is the make/model of the oil presure gauge you have and where did you buy it? This post has me concerned I need to ensure my correct oil pressure. Heck I am even seriously thinking about changing all fluids based upon this thread.
SPIKER
Elite Member
Hey guys:
I bought mine (actually bought a 3 gauge kit for 9.99 at ODD LOTS / BIG LOTS for an old tempo. Never installed it but all the gauges are sepperat and have a mounting plate to combine the 3 into one. anyhow the gauge kit came with all the needed adaptors as the outlet @ the oil pressure sending unit on the left side of the block above the tach sender is a 1/4" or 1/8" NPT tap. (forget which) you can buy a 1/4" T and install the gauge right off the "T" fitting if you wanted. I used the supplied HOSE and Fitting for the dash install. My 284 has individual gauge cluster and the replacement bolted right up. the chrome ring has rusted a bit from leaving it outside a lot but hey it was 9.99 for all 3 gauges so not out muchfor a replacement.!!! (also still have the Water Temp and the 60 AMP alt gauge, which I haven't installed yet... the factory ampmeter works well and hasn't broken...
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Mark M
I bought mine (actually bought a 3 gauge kit for 9.99 at ODD LOTS / BIG LOTS for an old tempo. Never installed it but all the gauges are sepperat and have a mounting plate to combine the 3 into one. anyhow the gauge kit came with all the needed adaptors as the outlet @ the oil pressure sending unit on the left side of the block above the tach sender is a 1/4" or 1/8" NPT tap. (forget which) you can buy a 1/4" T and install the gauge right off the "T" fitting if you wanted. I used the supplied HOSE and Fitting for the dash install. My 284 has individual gauge cluster and the replacement bolted right up. the chrome ring has rusted a bit from leaving it outside a lot but hey it was 9.99 for all 3 gauges so not out muchfor a replacement.!!! (also still have the Water Temp and the 60 AMP alt gauge, which I haven't installed yet... the factory ampmeter works well and hasn't broken...
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Mark M