Oil- Hydraulic Filter Difference

[TTTTTT]

I know filter X referenceing is all but exhausted and I have done my own as well although have not actually used Baldwin or NAPA ones yet. I also realize that the OEM filters are often totally relabeled wrong. I still have a few originals. After doing my recent fluid changes I did notice my oil and hydraulic looked and measured stangely identical although labelled different. Is there a fundamental difference or are they in fact the same. I do realize the hydraulic filter should be in the 150 micron range. Is this generally the same micron size for a typical oil filter? At this point I have had no issues with my hydraulics and everything works as normal. Just to note the DF's have the large 25l. combined tranny/hydraulics reservoir that operates everything.

Thanks Dave

 

[Diamondpilot]

With you having a common sump system everything I know goes out the door. As far as a common oil filter I believe they are in the 20 micron range. I just looked up the Fram PH3950 I use on my Jinma and its listed at 21 micron.

Chris

 

[TTTTTT]

With you having a common sump system everything I know goes out the door. As far as a common oil filter I believe they are in the 20 micron range. I just looked up the Fram PH3950 I use on my Jinma and its listed at 21 micron.

Chris

Thanks Chris,

I kind of thought that. Another good ?, are there any specs out there on the Chineese OEM filters for oil, hydraulics and fuel. Any of the dealers have any inside info on them? On the Jinmas with the separate sumps is there a tranny filter? I don't think so but... Again just thinking I am using a universal tranny hydraulic oil. If the rating is less on it I guess perhaps a 20 micron filter would work without issues compared with a typical AW32 hydraulic oil. I know when it is cold and very cold my hydraulics work almost immediately which indicates a lower viscosity for the universal fluid leading to maybe the filter micron size would be less. Make sense?

Dave

 

[Bob Rooks]

Chris is correct.
Tractor engine oil filters are in the 20µ - 30µ range.
Dedicated tractor hydraulic circuits generally use 10µ filters in the return line to the sump, 25µ for pump suction side filtering, and 15µ for pump discharge (pressure) side filters.
If your tractor has a combined sump system, I would use the filter recommended by the manufacturer or defer to rheology. Panta rei.

Oil viscosity comparison at different temperatures: http://www.ctoa.net/modules/xoopstube/singlevideo.php?cid=5&lid=30

 

[Diamondpilot]

My tractor does not have any filter on the tranny. As for the hydro side it came with a screen on the suction side of the pump. I did not like this so I removed the suction side filter and put in a return side filter. Basically the same thing that is on a common log splitter. I run 10 micron filter on the return side filter.

Chris

 

[TTTTTT]

Chris is correct.
Tractor engine oil filters are in the 20ｵ - 30ｵ range.
Dedicated tractor hydraulic circuits generally use 10ｵ filters in the return line to the sump, 25ｵ for pump suction side filtering, and 15ｵ for pump discharge (pressure) side filters.
If your tractor has a combined sump system, I would use the filter recommended by the manufacturer or defer to rheology. Panta rei.

Oil viscosity comparison at different temperatures: Chinese Tractor Owners Association - Oil viscosity comparisons

Hi Bob,

Excellent test you did. Very descriptive. I guess that just about says it all. At a higher temp UTF is very close to AW32 (which most in colder climates use) , but at the low temp the UTF is way more efficient . That would explain why I have very little lag time in the winter before I can use my hydraulics. Would this make sense then that if using UTF as I do, a filter for my hydraulics/tranny would not need or is designed for a filter with a high micron size such as a 150 which most people use when using AW32. Its possible a lower rating such as a 20-30 would work just fine on my system. That could explain that there is little or no difference between my oil filter as labelled and my hydraulic as labelled.

Thanks and great video

Dave

 

[Bob Rooks]

Dave,
I know of no one that uses a 150µ filter in a hydraulic system (if the ambient temp is cold, then it is pre-heated). You must have stuttered and meant 50µ, which in some cases is used on the suction side.
Do you have a filter on your combined sump system? If so, where? Or do you not have one and want to install one (recommended)?

As far as your Chinese filters go, I don't think I would swap the engine oil filter for the hydraulic oil filter - one may have a built in by-pass, and the other not. To my knowledge there are subtle differences between hydraulic oil filters and engine oil filters aside from just the pleated filter media, and I wouldn't recommend swapping just to save a buck either.

 

[greg_g]

Dave - the black and blue cannisters in your photo may actually both be oil filters. Cuz I think the DF fluid is filtered underneath the tractor. Look under the floorboards, I think maybe the right one. I'd expect to see a narrow cylinder - you might call it a tube - inline lengthways with one of the hydraulic lines. If it's designed like mine, you'll likely find 80 micron brass mesh inside. The mesh will likely be wrapped around cylinder shaped form, which may be magnetic. When I change fluid, I remove the mesh > wipe the filings off the magnetic surface > install new mesh if necessary. It's aftermarket stuff. You buy it by the foot, then cut to fit.

//greg//

 

[TTTTTT]

Dave - the black and blue cannisters in your photo may actually both be oil filters. Cuz I think the DF fluid is filtered underneath the tractor. Look under the floorboards, I think maybe the right one. I'd expect to see a narrow cylinder - you might call it a tube - inline lengthways with one of the hydraulic lines. If it's designed like mine, you'll likely find 80 micron brass mesh inside. The mesh will likely be wrapped around cylinder shaped form, which may be magnetic. When I change fluid, I remove the mesh > wipe the filings off the magnetic surface > install new mesh if necessary. It's aftermarket stuff. You buy it by the foot, then cut to fit.

//greg//

Thanks Greg,

The newer DF's has just the spin on on the suction side

Dave,
I know of no one that uses a 150ｵ filter in a hydraulic system (if the ambient temp is cold, then it is pre-heated). You must have stuttered and meant 50ｵ, which in some cases is used on the suction side.
Do you have a filter on your combined sump system? If so, where? Or do you not have one and want to install one (recommended)?

As far as your Chinese filters go, I don't think I would swap the engine oil filter for the hydraulic oil filter - one may have a built in by-pass, and the other not. To my knowledge there are subtle differences between hydraulic oil filters and engine oil filters aside from just the pleated filter media, and I wouldn't recommend swapping just to save a buck either.

Hi Bob,

As above , I have a spin on on the suction side. I definitely read somewhere about people using a 140-150 for the hydraulics when complaining of slow hydraulics. i know the labeling of filters can be way off.

May have to give Chip a PM and see what he thinks as he sells the DF's unless he sees this.

Dave

 

[Bob Rooks]

If your hydraulics are slow due to cold ambient temps without the benefit of pre-heated oil, I would opt for a 100 mesh strainer element on the suction side instead of the pleated media type.

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