oil for air compressor

[KennyG]

If the valve is working OK, I wouldn't replace it. If you go ahead and blow the tank down after use, it will continue to blow out some of the goop. I know others are concerned about the blowdown pressure hurting your hand, but I've never had a problem with that. I'm just careful to not put my fingers under the discharge. If you keep draining the water, the inside of the tank will dry out.

 

[5030]

If you keep draining the water, the inside of the tank will dry out.

Maybe, but probably not. The compression of air causes condensation which is why there is a drain for it. Once the mill coating on the inside of the receiver is compromised and rusting, the oxidation will continue to form no matter what.

 

[caver]

I found this recently at walmart and met the specs of my compressor.

 

[5030]

I try to avoid Wally World as much as possible.

 

[big bubba]

OP: sounds like you're doing fine given all the advice. if you leave drain valve open & adj 20-30 psi on compressor, then turn on breaker to purge, etc you should be fine
wise to post your concern on forum, best regards

 

[Jallcorn]

My industrial air compressor vendor told me that his mfg. now ships units with SYNTHETIC air compressor oil factory installed. Previously they shipped the units dry and the end user had to fill with oil prior to use. But the mfg. found that by using synthetic oil, warranty costs for compressor failure dropped to almost zero opposed to a much higher cost with conventional oil. The added cost of factory installation of the synthetic was quickly offset by the reduction in unit failure.

 

[Gord Baker]

Always Drain your compressor after frequent use or even a few times a year.
The Receivers can corrode internally and explode. Drain the air off if you are new to this and turn it on when valve is opened. Be sure unit is level. Discard at 20 years is stamped on mine.

 

[jgmo]

You MUST "fiddle" with that drain valve! Leaving condensate sitting in an air reservoir will damage it due to corrosion!
I suggest that you use the air nozzle that you blow the ZTR off with to let most of the pressure out then open the drain. But be ready because, if you've never drained it before , there's likely to be a substantial amount of water sitting in there along with some oil. It can make quite a mess.

If you want convenience, there are drain valves available that are spring loaded and, after installing a lanyard to the valve and tying it up somewhere at the top of the tank, a simple pull on that cord will drain the tank and you don't even have to bend over.

After draining the tank, run the compressor until it cuts out. Unplug it or shut the breaker off. Use a spray bottle with a mix of water and a small amount of dish soap to spritz around the pipes and compressor cylinder.

DO NOT spray the motor or electrical connections/wires!

Most leaks will show up as bubbles and you can then work on how to stop them.

DRAIN THE COMPRESSOR AFTER EACH USE!
Good luck.

 

[cbbennin]

Try this for your drain - I actually have this and use a remote power switch that turns the drain switch and the compressor on at the same time. You would be amazed at how much water is collected in the tank...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00273WV78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[rocco611]

Most auto parts sell air compressor oil or you can use synthetic motor oil. Check for loose bolts on the compressor (part that leaks oil) sometimes the bolt on the pump cylinder and head can come loose and cause an oil leak . The compressor kicking on often can be caused by an air leak at the check valve (under the pressure switch on your compressor).