Oil dipstick confusion

[Bruceifer]

My 1996 Zetor 6340 has an engine oil dipstick that screws in. When checking the engine oil level, do i screw the stick in or do I check the level with the stick sitting on top of the threads?
Thanks for your help.

 

[5030]

Usually, not screwed in has been my experience.

 

[Bruceifer]

Usually, not screwed in has been my experience.

That’s what made the most since to me, but I have read to do it both ways
in general, but can’t find an answer specific to Zetor and it makes quite a difference. The engine is smoking blue and hoping it’s just over full, so I am hoping I can find a definitive answer.

Cheers

 

[5030]

Blue smoke when running (and warm) is usually indicative of an injector issue or a head gasket issue, not an overfilled crankcase.

In reality, the difference between a fully seated (screwed in dipstick) and one that isn't is not much in capacity.

 

[Captain Dirty]

The only vehicle I have owned with an owner's manual that explicitly said to screw in the dipstick was a 1971 BMW motorcycle.

As a practical matter, most dipsticks have a "full" and "add oil" marks. The distance between the marks is usually equal to or less than the length of the threading. So if you screw it in and the level is not above "full" or if you don't screw it in and the level is above "add", you should be OK

Does your dipstick have only one mark? Your second post says you are burning oil; does that change if you remove oil to the mark when screwed in?

 

[5030]

The only vehicle I have owned with an owner's manual that explicitly said to screw in the dipstick was a 1971 BMW motorcycle.

Add Kohler K series engines and Kawasaki air cooled utility engines to that list. Both are seated on the top, not screwed in.

 

[npalen]

It would be helpful for those of us with OCD if the manufacturers would reveal this in the owners manual or, perhaps, a decal. But then, perhaps, they know not either.

 

[5030]

Gee, my manuals for the ones I own state it clearly, but then one does have to read an owners manual to ascertain that data. Today, most people never bother to read an owners manual. They figure they can obtain that info on the net or just wing it.

Have you ever read in depth, the owners manual that came with your personal vehicle. Bet not. Bet it's tucked away in the glove box or somewhere forgotten about.

Amazing what useful info there is contained in it. It was written by people who know a lot more about your vehicle, or tractor than you think you do.

All my equipment including all my implements has an owners manual weather proof container affixed to them and the manual is inside for quick reference if I need it, which I do regularly.

If people just took the time to read their owners manuals, 90% of their questions are answered therein.

 

[LouNY]

It does vary equipment to equipment.
What I have done on much equipment is to do an oil and filter change,
letting it drain for several hours. Then adding the called for amount of oil and filter.
Start it up and let it run for a couple of minutes then read the dipstick that will get you very close to danged good,
and for an interesting exercise, check the level every two minutes for about 10 you may be surprised at long long it
has to sit for the level to stabilize.
On some of my engines I have added a second mark for a running level mark.

 

[BigBlue1]

As noted, the manual should tell you the proper method for checking oil level. Barring that, follow Lou's advice and try checking both ways. Whichever method shows the oil close to the full line is the right one.

 

[5030]

One thing I did with my flat dipsticks is, I punched a hole at the full mark and a hole at the add level. The oil will bridge the hole (1'16" diameter) and makes it easy to check the level. My Kubota's are real guilty of that. SUDT is clear and hard to see on a stick but it bridges the hole nicely.

 

[Robin Veerman]

Blue smoke when running (and warm) is usually indicative of an injector issue or a head gasket issue, not an overfilled crankcase.

No that’s incorrect. See the following picture. Overfilled is one of the causes. Follow post 9 or simply run the level near the halfway mark for starters, and see if the blue smoke disappears after several hours of running.

 

[5030]

No that’s incorrect. See the following picture. Overfilled is one of the causes. Follow post 9 or simply run the level near the halfway mark for starters, and see if the blue smoke disappears after several hours of running. View attachment 728215

Whatever, Your attachment is not viewable. I don't ever overfill any crankcase anyway. I can read the dipstick just fine. Usually an overfilled crankcase, the crankshaft is whipping the oil and blowing it out the breather vent. Ican be correct and incorrect at the same time but usually blue smoke after the motor is warm is indicative of other issues.

 

[Robin Veerman]

 

[Robin Veerman]

My apologies. Can you see it above? One doesn’t know if you’ve overfilled the crankcase or not, if there’s a discrepancy in the proper technique of how to do so…

 

[pmsmechanic]

Blue smoke is burning oil, white smoke is usually an antifreeze leak and black smoke is too much fuel.