Oil & Fuel Oil Change

[Tim in MN]

I picked up a new Max 26 a couple months ago, love it so far. It's starting to get cold up here in Northern Minnesota, I'm going to assume it's got 15-40 oil in it from the factory. I'm going to change it to a 5-30 synthetic before it gets below zero. Was thinking about Amsoil Signature Series, does anyone out there have any better recommendations or advice?

 

[YLee Kioti]

Your owner's manual has or should have a chart for different temperature ranges.
Stick to the chart and get a synthetic. Many threads here on oil changes.
Also check specs for your tier IV engine.
Many agree oil is cheaper then an engine and therefore change oil annually or recommended hours which ever comes first.
Congrats on your machine....enjoy

 

[RNeumann]

I didn’t have good luck with Amsoil. But others have. The viscosity is dictated by the manual. The lower viscosity is typically for the newer engines that are trying to meet MPG targets. I’m thinking the Mahindra was probably designed for 15-40 or maybe 5-40....but again the manual is the standard. I wouldn’t deviate from that.

 

[oosik]

Stick to whatever your Operator Manual says. Particularly since it is still under warrantee. How conditions have changed:

My Op Manual for my 2009 Kubota M6040 recommends standard 15W40 - year round.

The Op Manual for my new 2018 Ram Power Wagon ( "the" Taco Wagon ) recommends full synthetic 0W40 - year round.

 

[RalphVa]

Don't believe those upper temperature charts. Think they're for air cooled engines. The upper temperature is set by the coolant thermostat, which is about the same for all engines. VW has been running 5w30 oil in their diesels for many many years. Do not need 40w, and you do need 0w for your winters. I'd either go to your VW dealership and buy one of their 5w30 diesel oils or order M1 0w30 ESP online. That's what I plan to do when I run out of 5w30 Castrol bought with VW $.

Ralph

 

[1st Tractor]

I picked up a new Max 26 a couple months ago, love it so far. It's starting to get cold up here in Northern Minnesota, I'm going to assume it's got 15-40 oil in it from the factory. I'm going to change it to a 5-30 synthetic before it gets below zero. Was thinking about Amsoil Signature Series, does anyone out there have any better recommendations or advice?

I also purchased a MAX 26 (HST & FEL) a few months ago and live in NW IL. I now have 12 hours on it and was also wondering about a "winter" oil for us owners in the northern states. I purchased some Rotunda 5W-40 synthetic but have decided to keep the factory 15W-40 oil in it until the 1st 50 hour oil change. My reasoning is the factory oil is "conventional" and I'm afraid my tractor doesn't have enough hours on it yet to have the engine broke in properly. In gas engines you can't get the engine properly broke in (rings, cam, etc) using a synthetic oil. Not sure if this holds true for diesel's?

 

[oosik]

Hmmm........"in gas engines you can't get the engine properly broke in using a synthetic oil". I'll pass this nugget of info on to Chrysler/Dodge/Ram. They are sure making a mistake with all their new vehicles - aren't they...............

 

[YLee Kioti]

Hmmm........"in gas engines you can't get the engine properly broke in using a synthetic oil". I'll pass this nugget of info on to Chrysler/Dodge/Ram. They are sure making a mistake with all their new vehicles - aren't they...............

And Corvets and Shelby series.......:laughing: holy cow the list can be long......

 

[oosik]

Before I choose/bought the Taco Wagon I looked at HD Chevys, Fords & GMC. All the big name manufacturers are chasing the MPG numbers and moving over to full synthetic oils.

 

[1st Tractor]

True, but I've never owned a diesel before and do not know their requirements.
But if synthetic oil is OK why didn't mine come with synthetic oil?
Think I'll stick to "conventional" 15W-40 as the manual recommends until the 1st 50 hour oil change then go with synthetic.

 

[RNeumann]

One of the ways new car and truck manufacturers have been chasing HP and MPG is with thinner oils. Because the machining tolerances have tightened the engines can be built with less “room” between surfaces (like a bearing and crank). With less room you need thinner oil. The thinner oil has less friction and resistance which helps with HP and MPG.

Knowing that, let’s look at these little tractors. The manufacturers want little to do with what is mentioned above. These engines need to work in the desert, jungle and arctic. In wet, dry or dusty conditions. They must also be “universal” enough that some remote village in some third world country will have an oil that will work.

So running the latest thin oil, designed for your modern truck, isn’t going to help. In fact it will probably harm your little tractor.

Plus the days of engine failure, as the result of poor lube, are largely a thing of the past. Pulling a modern engine to find belled cylinders to the point of smoking or flattened cam shafts are abnormal. Seems most engines are overhauled these days from cracks, warped heads and or cylinder head leaks and broken internal parts.

So run out and buy that oil that is twice the cost and or half the viscosity. But remember two things- oil companies have spent millions to convince you the most expensive oil is needed. Some dude or dude-et in some far away place just changed the oil on their tractor and is doing just fine.......the engine was designed work that way!

 

[bridge4]

True, but I've never owned a diesel before and do not know their requirements.
But if synthetic oil is OK why didn't mine come with synthetic oil?
Think I'll stick to "conventional" 15W-40 as the manual recommends until the 1st 50 hour oil change then go with synthetic.

Because it's cheaper. And like RNeumann said, these sell all over, and not everyone can get the good stuff.

Mahindra is a less cost product for a few reasons, and one of them is that they aren't spending millions more a year filling all their tractors with full synthetic. It's the same reason my coolant was the older green stuff instead of some nice high millage long lasting stuff..

Weight of the oil, and quality manufacturer are important, but full synthetic or conventional is a $$$ choice. I am about to switch my oil to a winter oil in the next week or two also, I will be going full synthetic with about 18 hours on it. The marketing guys got me :confused2::laughing:


Also question sorta related...never had a diesel before either. Is the oil different? Or does good oil I'd put in a gasser work too?

 

[shovelmike]

The oil needs to be rated for diesel, more severe operating conditions with a diesel, much higher compression and more ash to deal with.
I use diesel oil in my Kawasaki powered Hustler ZTR mower, a bit of overkill, but just for good measure being air cooled. Diesel oil in gas engine = OK….gas rated oil in a diesel would be unwise.

 

[LouNY]

The "manufactures" oil recommendations are the MINIMAL acceptable specifications;
the "manufactures" change intervals listed are the MAXIMUM recommended intervals.

Anyone using a better spec oil or shorter change interval is certainly not hurting their engine or equipment.

 

[shovelmike]

The "manufactures" oil recommendations are the MINIMAL acceptable specifications;
the "manufactures" change intervals listed are the MAXIMUM recommended intervals.

Anyone using a better spec oil or shorter change interval is certainly not hurting their engine or equipment.

Agreed 100 percent!

 

[RNeumann]

Because it's cheaper. And like RNeumann said, these sell all over, and not everyone can get the good stuff.

Mahindra is a less cost product for a few reasons, and one of them is that they aren't spending millions more a year filling all their tractors with full synthetic. It's the same reason my coolant was the older green stuff instead of some nice high millage long lasting stuff..

Weight of the oil, and quality manufacturer are important, but full synthetic or conventional is a $$$ choice. I am about to switch my oil to a winter oil in the next week or two also, I will be going full synthetic with about 18 hours on it. The marketing guys got me :confused2::laughing:


Also question sorta related...never had a diesel before either. Is the oil different? Or does good oil I'd put in a gasser work too?

Yes diesels have oil rated specifically for diesels. The additives are specific to the byproducts of diesel combustion. The “old standard” was/is Chevron DELO- DELO equals Diesel engine lubricating oil. As the standards increase or change the oil changes too. Most of the time the newer oils are backwards compatible for rating- not viscosity!


Motor oil - Wikipedia

Scroll down to “Standards” and then scroll down about 6 paragraphs to find the info on diesel engine standards. The next paragraph after that also covers the “new” oils (like 0w-30) that are needed to meet the newer emissions standards. Note- they are not compatible with other engines.

An area I’ve seen synthetics have an advantage is EXTREME COLD weather flow. 99.9% of folks in these conditions have engine heaters as coolant can freeze and battery water can freeze and crack the battery. Anyway, in these conditions, and if the engine doesn’t have a heater, the synthetics will flow better.

 

[bridge4]

Thanks for the info guys! We get some -20 or more days every year here, at least with windchill. I installed an engine heater a few days ago in anticipation of the winter to come. Now I want to get some cold weather oil in there as well, so thanks for the advice!

 

[Tim in MN]

Well there have been some interesting opinions on this subject so far. I have had some experience working on diesels ( 20 years Navy ) but not on an engine this small. Yes the oil specs on diesels are different than gas engines, we didn't use synthetic in the Navy. I can't imagine what a 250 gallon oil change would run for a Fairbanks Morse 12 cylinder. Last year up here in Northern Minnesota we had some nasty -30 F days, I want the tractor to start if I need it. Diesel spec synthetic does seem to be the best solution for my conditions, but I do appreciate the wisdom and knowledge of others. Thanks for the responses.

 

[bridge4]

Well there have been some interesting opinions on this subject so far. I have had some experience working on diesels ( 20 years Navy ) but not on an engine this small. Yes the oil specs on diesels are different than gas engines, we didn't use synthetic in the Navy. I can't imagine what a 250 gallon oil change would run for a Fairbanks Morse 12 cylinder. Last year up here in Northern Minnesota we had some nasty -30 F days, I want the tractor to start if I need it. Diesel spec synthetic does seem to be the best solution for my conditions, but I do appreciate the wisdom and knowledge of others. Thanks for the responses.

You certaintly have more experience than me! My hope is with the coolant heater I installed, and some Rotella T6 I bought today, I will be covered.

250 Gallons of Oil. My Lord. Where do you put the old stuff?! You guys use any name brand or just generic?

 

[RNeumann]

The Navy sounds a lot like fleet management. Both use science and lab testing to figure oil change intervals and oil types. With their own lab testing, and ignoring the hype, they come to different conclusions. Definitely not the ones advertised by the oil companies