Odd behavior when letting out the clutch in YM2310

[etpm]

My son noticed this too. If the tractor is stopped then when the clutch is let out the tractor will start to move in the opposite direction of where the shifter is. Just slightly. So if the tractor is in reverse when letting out the clutch the tractor will move forward, just a bit. And when in forward the tractor will start to back up. It doesn't move far, just enough that you feel motion. What's going on? The tractor works perfectly otherwise. When I first bought the tractor the clutch was stuck but we got it to break loose after stepping on the clutch pedal about 1000 times over a couple of weeks.
Eric

 

[California]

Note that letting the clutch out causes the transmission's internal pump to start spinning. That pump then engages various internal clutches that are attached to gears. Your experience sounds like something is getting engaged early. NBD if it isn't causing a problem.

That pump action is also why it is impossible to 'feather' the clutch for an ultra smooth start, with PowerShift. No matter how delicately you use the clutch pedal that pump is either going to be not spinning, or spinning.

 

[bmaverick]

My son noticed this too. If the tractor is stopped then when the clutch is let out the tractor will start to move in the opposite direction of where the shifter is. Just slightly. So if the tractor is in reverse when letting out the clutch the tractor will move forward, just a bit. And when in forward the tractor will start to back up. It doesn't move far, just enough that you feel motion. What's going on? The tractor works perfectly otherwise. When I first bought the tractor the clutch was stuck but we got it to break loose after stepping on the clutch pedal about 1000 times over a couple of weeks.
Eric

If using the PowerShift in a designated band, no clutching is required.
When you change bands, yes, a clutch is needed.
I typically change bands with the PowerShift in neutral only, never in a selected forward or reverse motion.

 

[California]

If using the PowerShift in a designated band, no clutching is required.
When you change bands, yes, a clutch is needed.
I typically change bands with the PowerShift in neutral only, never in a selected forward or reverse motion.

Interesting, I'm approximately opposite.

After I read of someone twisting the shaft between the clutch and transmission by dumping the clutch at high rpm on pavement, I ease full throttle shifts by slight clutching to allow some slip instead of a nasty jerk.

And it never occurred to me to put the PowerShift in neutral for a full stop change of the range lever. If the clutch isn't engaged (and you aren't rolling) then there's nothing going on in there, no?

 

[careyo63]

Valves in the vale body. The 2310 has a Power shift or should be. PSPG-2441 Power shift pump Gasket is the Gasket. Dirty fluid, Filter's etc.. Most likely the Trans. needs to be serviced.

 

[bmaverick]

Interesting, I'm approximately opposite.

After I read of someone twisting the shaft between the clutch and transmission by dumping the clutch at high rpm on pavement, I ease full throttle shifts by slight clutching to allow some slip instead of a nasty jerk.

And it never occurred to me to put the PowerShift in neutral for a full stop change of the range lever. If the clutch isn't engaged (and you aren't rolling) then there's nothing going on in there, no?

I always stop to change the PowerShift range. I do no like being jerked around nor the tractor pulling something behind. Could be a mower, trailer, or disc harrow.

 

[etpm]

Valves in the vale body. The 2310 has a Power shift or should be. PSPG-2441 Power shift pump Gasket is the Gasket. Dirty fluid, Filter's etc.. Most likely the Trans. needs to be s

Shortly after I bought the tractor I changed the oil and filter and fuel filter. It has been on my list to change the hydraulic fluid too but since the tractor works great I keep putting it off. I guess I will change the hydraulic fluid now that the weather is warming up. And clean the filter too.
Eric

 

[California]

I always stop to change the PowerShift range. I do no like being jerked around nor the tractor pulling something behind. Could be a mower, trailer, or disc harrow.

I wish I had the luxury of terrain where I could stay in one gear for a while. Most of my shifting is where I can't maintain rpm after a grade gets steeper. Or, shift up when I get to a smooth downhill portion. I use all of the Powershift's 3 speeds all the time. But seldom need to change range after choosing the appropriate one.

The geared YM240 that requires a full stop at every change of grade isn't nearly as productive as the little YM186D with Powershift that maintains rolling inertia uphill. Harsh full throttle shifts can't be good for it so I clutch enough to soften a shift under load. Gentle shifts while coasting downhill seem harmless.

Does anybody know if there are different sizes of Powershift for the various sizes of YM's? I've always suspected that the internals are a Datsun(?) AT minus a torque converter. Anybody remember the B&M modified racing Hydramatics? Powershift shifts feel like that.

Uphill. Had to shift to low range to proceed.

Downhill, the lane down to the back of the orchard.

 

[careyo63]

Going down hill shift into neutral. When you get going to fast use your brake pedal. That should slow it down.

The geared YM240 that requires a full stop at every change of grade isn't nearly as productive as the little YM186D with Powershift