Not Too Happy with Engine Heater

[Avenger]

Last night was cold. 14*F. I let the new radiator hose heater run for about 4 hours before attempting to start the engine. I used my IR thermometer to see just how effective this new lower radiator hose heater is working. It read 110F on the heater, the hose was 90F. Freeze plug was 30F. Oil pan was 14F.

I turned the key on and the glow plug light went out immediately. I cycled the switch a few times, needing, wanting the glow plugs to fire a bit longer, knowing that the combustion chambers are still cold. I started the tractor and it did fire right up with a small clatter, maybe a single miss.

Here is why I am not too happy. I am approaching the next regen cycle. If the ECU believes the tractor is warm a few minutes after startup, because the coolant is warm, and attempts to regen, with the oil that is not warm, I'm in trouble! I use the proper oil, but it is cold and thick.

I am thinking of adding a magnetic oil pan heater. I'm not a fan of these, especially with a split sump. But something to warm that oil is better than nothing.

So I am disappointed that I cannot run the glow plugs longer, thanks to the ECU (if you know how I can run them longer, I'm all ears (turning the key backwards does not do it)) which results in potentially more cold starts, the exact opposite of what I am wanting, and the oil is not getting warmed at all.
Adding a magnetic oil pan heater will help the oil, but the ECU is another monster.

 

[jaydee325]

I agree there may be a problem with the ECU programing with respect to the glow plugs. Seems to be question for the dealer if operation is correct.

Having said that, it appears your engine heater is not doing its job. I've never been a fan of hose mounted heaters. The observed temperature readings indicate that the thermostat on the engine is not opening and, you are only heating the short area in communication of the hose heater due to no circulation.

 

[oosik]

Something is wrong with the way your heater is installed/operating. It should have the entire engine - all the coolant - nice and warm after being plugged in a couple hours. It's not designed to heat the engine oil but it will raise the temperature somewhat. Remember - it is a coolant heater.

 

[Underdog57]

Avenger, I think I have the same heater, I posted this in your other thread:

Enjoy your videos, I put one in about 2 years ago. Yesterday it was about 20* F here and I had my coolant heater on for about 5 hrs. Checked temp on hose just above the heater was approx 140* F the freeze plug on the block was about 110* and was about 100* going in & out of the Bottom of the radiator.
Purrs like a kitten when she starts!

Now I need to check temps after being plugged in for 1, 2, & 3 hours to see how long it takes to get up to temp.

 

[RalphVa]

Should work within 30 minutes. One for 4 hours, you're just wasting electric heat to the atmosphere via the radiator.

Had a lower rad heater in our 220D Benz at our house in Vermont @ -22 F. Ran for 30 minutes, got in, glowed it for the required amount of time. Started instantly.

Had to go about 5 miles down the road to heat up the fuel filter enough to stop the wax gelling on it. Engine stopped twice with it. Let sit about 30 seconds and restarted.

Ralph

 

[RSR]

Last night was cold. 14*F. I let the new radiator hose heater run for about 4 hours before attempting to start the engine. I used my IR thermometer to see just how effective this new lower radiator hose heater is working. It read 110F on the heater, the hose was 90F. Freeze plug was 30F. Oil pan was 14F.

I turned the key on and the glow plug light went out immediately. I cycled the switch a few times, needing, wanting the glow plugs to fire a bit longer, knowing that the combustion chambers are still cold. I started the tractor and it did fire right up with a small clatter, maybe a single miss.

Here is why I am not too happy. I am approaching the next regen cycle. If the ECU believes the tractor is warm a few minutes after startup, because the coolant is warm, and attempts to regen, with the oil that is not warm, I'm in trouble! I use the proper oil, but it is cold and thick.

I am thinking of adding a magnetic oil pan heater. I'm not a fan of these, especially with a split sump. But something to warm that oil is better than nothing.

So I am disappointed that I cannot run the glow plugs longer, thanks to the ECU (if you know how I can run them longer, I'm all ears (turning the key backwards does not do it)) which results in potentially more cold starts, the exact opposite of what I am wanting, and the oil is not getting warmed at all.
Adding a magnetic oil pan heater will help the oil, but the ECU is another monster.

Maybe the answer is to remove the radiator heater? "Cold" is a relative term. Here in Northern NY, 14 on a January day is considered warm. We've had precisely one day where it got above freezing (it hit 34 for 2 hours) in the last 5.5 weeks. The highest high in the 15 day forecast is 24 degrees.

When I bought my LS, I just assumed I needed a heater of some sort. Both dealers I talked with in this area talked me out of it. They both said they've never installed one (one dealer has been carrying LS since they came to the US) and have never had any problems. They said just cycle the glow plugs a couple of times if it's cold.

I keep my tractor in an insulated garage, but even so, temps in the low 20's in the garage are common when it's around or below 0 outside. I just cycle the glow plugs twice and it fires right up no problem. I idle at low RPM for 1-2 minutes, then bring it slowly up to 1500 RPM and leave it there until the engine warms up. Then bring it up to PTO speed and start blowing snow (my primary use during the winter).

Remove the heater, and the ECU won't mistake a cold engine for being warm?

My anecdotal evidence (and the confirmation by the dealers) is there's really no need for an external heater.

 

[Cycledude]

So far the block heater on my LS XR4155 seems to work great and I love the automatic glow plug system.
Last time I used it was to blow snow on February 6th, overnight it had dropped to -15 below zero, plugged it in for 1.5 hours before attempting to start, the glow plugs did not activate and the tractor started like it had been running for an hour already.

 

[nybirdman]

Also in Northern NY,I have and used a block heater/battery tender;sure does warm up quicker.Just had a block heater installed in a used Kubota and it only cost $100.I just think it is a lot easier on the tractor.

 

[Rustyiron]

Last night was cold. 14*F. I let the new radiator hose heater run for about 4 hours before attempting to start the engine. I used my IR thermometer to see just how effective this new lower radiator hose heater is working. It read 110F on the heater, the hose was 90F. Freeze plug was 30F. Oil pan was 14F.

I turned the key on and the glow plug light went out immediately. I cycled the switch a few times, needing, wanting the glow plugs to fire a bit longer, knowing that the combustion chambers are still cold. I started the tractor and it did fire right up with a small clatter, maybe a single miss.

Here is why I am not too happy. I am approaching the next regen cycle. If the ECU believes the tractor is warm a few minutes after startup, because the coolant is warm, and attempts to regen, with the oil that is not warm, I'm in trouble! I use the proper oil, but it is cold and thick.

I am thinking of adding a magnetic oil pan heater. I'm not a fan of these, especially with a split sump. But something to warm that oil is better than nothing.

So I am disappointed that I cannot run the glow plugs longer, thanks to the ECU (if you know how I can run them longer, I'm all ears (turning the key backwards does not do it)) which results in potentially more cold starts, the exact opposite of what I am wanting, and the oil is not getting warmed at all.
Adding a magnetic oil pan heater will help the oil, but the ECU is another monster.

I'm confused, so the heater gets things warm enough to short or no cycle your glow plugs (or whatever pre heat system) and it fired right away. Why would you want to run the glow plugs longer in relation to your cold oil concern. Neither device is intended to heat your oil. Cold oil passing through a warm block will, and will marginally cool the block but that's quickly replaced by combustion heat.

 

[PCABE5]

I don't know of a way to run the glow plugs longer as the ECU controls them based on temperature which I believe is ambient temperature.

What temperature is your radiator? Ambient temperature sensor is on top of the radiator. Could your heater be installed incorrectly? Not sure if those are directional or not. Your frost plug should be hotter than 30°F.

No sure that I have seen an XR regenerate at startup. If your worried about it next time you are using the tractor run a manual regeneration then you don't have to worry about it till summer.