No. Wisconsin food plots

[mscheer772]

Help!!!

I've used the boxblade to scarify the ground, Lots of sod clumps were made by the box blade. How to I break them up and smooth the field.

Lots of rock. Picked up tons of rock with a trackhoe and by hand.

How do I proceed to make an effective food plot. I plan on discing the sh** out of it, dragging the field with Eddie Walkers' SUPER DUPER drag, then fertilizing ,seeding then cultipacking the seed bed.

Should I wait a year and disc the field 2-3 times this year and plant next? I forgot I'm also having bulk lime spread according to the soils report. I've used all these method before without great success. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


-Mike Scheer-

 

[tbenn7362]

Hi,

I have done alot of food plots. You need a turning plow the first time you plant the field. It is also a good idea to spray it first with roundup to clean up the weeds. After you turn it over then you should be able to disk it nicely. Many times all you will need is the disk for following years.

 

[MMagis]

It would have been much easier had you killed the grass with gly first, but your plan will work. Definitely don’t wait until next year, it will only grow back. There is no need to plow, but it does make things easier. Give the grass clumps some time to die and disk again. It may take a couple times, but eventually you’ll have a nice seed bed.

 

[mscheer772]

Thanks guys,

I won't wait til next year.

I did spray the two big fields prior to boxblading. A plow would be almost impossible. In one field alone, 13,000 sq ft, I had a trackhoe remove over 75 boulders that weighed 1ton or more each.

The soils map says very rocky :no sh**.

I'll probably wait two weeks disc again, then drag, then plant, and finally cultipack. How does that sound?

Thanks for your help

 

[MMagis]

It depends on what you're planting, but that'll likely work. However, rain could change your plans. If it rains before the clumps die, they will take root again so it'll be harder to break them up. It could potentially take a couple more times with the disc.

 

[mscheer772]

I tried out my rusted up spike chain harrow, if that is the correct name. It doesn't smooth out the tractor tires. I tried putting weight (ie rocks) on the harrow to get it to dig in but it was either too much weight and the drag would plug up, or the rocks would get thrown off. Help!! What can I do to the harrow to get it to work properly?

It seems to not run directly behind tractor. Sometimes left sometimes right.

 

[qni51]

mscheer772

I hope that 13000 Sq Ft was a big error in calling it a large field. That is a bit over 1/4 of a acre. Or do you have so many lakes that it is hard to find a field as large as 25-100 acres? Maybe you need to think quarry instead of garden plots. Ha Ha

 

[Conservation]

I'm lost here. What are you planting? It is getting a little late for many crops to be effective as animal food plots. Why the need to make it so smooth? Why disc? When I do some food plot plantings, I use the local soil and water's drill. First, Roundup, then wait a week or two, and drill right into the sod. You are never vulnerable to heavy rain washing away your planting. No need to have it smooth. If the rocks are shallow, they may be a problem for a drill. If for whatever reason you wanted it really smooth, you could get all the rocks out you can, and go over with a rototiller. Not unreasonable for 1/4 acre. But I caution against this at this time of year. If you don't get ground cover for tilled soil fairly quickly, you will be a candidate for erosion, bur more likely weeds. Let's hear about the plan here.
If it is a food plot you are doing, and you are in Illinois, get S&W involved. They may have cost sharing programs for this including the Roundup or seeds for the planting and even equipment to loan you. They are usually located in your local USDA building.