3-Point Hitch No Float On 3PT Hitch

[celtsrevenge]

Greetings from the Rocky Mountains. I need some advice. I have a YM2210d. According to the manual, if you put the PTO lever all the way down, it is supposed to go into float mode. When I do this with the brush hog on for cutting, it does not float, but makes a great plow. What am I doing wrong?

 

[murphy1244]

There is no downward force on a three point on most tractors

 

[bcp]

In float, something has to hold it up or it will go down all the way. Sounds like you need to readjust your brush hog if it can be done. Different ones use different systems to allow flex. Another way is to install limit chains so the hitch will not go below a certain point.

Here is one post about chains:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...8-brush-hog-bx25-post3019977.html#post3019977

Photo in post 4 in the link below is the same idea, but used for a ballast box.
Adding Weight to the 3 point hitch - Yesterday's Tractors

Bruce

 

[Gary Fowler]

All 3 PH on todays tractors "float" upward from what ever they are set at. Only one or two models of old IH tractors like 300 and H models had a down force but they didn't use a 3 PH (they had 2 point exclusive IH design).
You set the correct height by moving the control down till you get it where you want it and then set a stop so the handle wont go any lower. If your tractor doesn't have this stop, you can make one with a carriage bolt, washer and wingnut. If you also have draft control, not all tractors have it, you can adjust it so that if the load gets too hard to pull it will raise the implement. This only works with ground engaging implements.

There is no float detent on MOST 3 PH for tractors.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Greetings from the Rocky Mountains. I need some advice. I have a YM2210d. According to the manual, if you put the PTO lever all the way down, it is supposed to go into float mode. When I do this with the brush hog on for cutting, it does not float, but makes a great plow. What am I doing wrong?

TSC used to sell limit chains for 3 PH tractors when they wont hold a position. They hook on each side of the lift pins and again at the top link connection of the tractor. With these installed and correctly positioned, they would hold the bushhog at the preset position and you could just let the position lever lay all the way down if you wanted.

 

[284 International]

Probably the issue for you is that the tail wheel on the rear of the cutter is holding the rear up, and the front edges of the skids are being forced to carry all the weight on a few inches of width, and then being drug around as you make your turns.

Possible solutions include adjusting the position stop on the rear lift control (If your machine doesn't have one, it would be straightforward to make one out of a wingnut, bolt, and a few washers) for the easiest option. Another choice would be to adjust the position of the rear lift links where they attach to the lower arms: These frequently have multiple holes that allow the side links to be positioned higher or lower onto the lift arms. Finally, you may need to adjust/reposition the top link. Moving the link to the other hole(s) on the tractor end may help, as might lengthening the top link itself.

No matter what, the goal is to get the cutter to ride reasonably distributed between the tail wheel and the tractor, not skidding along as might a sled.

 

[celtsrevenge]

Splendid! I'll try lowering the rear wheel, and raising the lift a bit. From the description in the manual, I thought that at the lowest PTO setting the mechanism would literally float to accommodate the contours of the ground. Thanks for the input.

 

[284 International]

I'll try lowering the rear wheel, and raising the lift a bit.

I wouldn't move the wheel yet, that will probably just increase the "nose-down" attitude that is gouging your soil.

...I thought that at the lowest PTO setting the mechanism would literally float to accommodate the contours of the ground.

It does float and accommodate the ground contour, but has the mass of whatever implement is on there opposing it. From my understanding of your situation, the brush hog is running into the ground, and it is easier for the soil to be displaced than it is to raise the cutter. I would suggest figuring out how to keep the cutter more level or a little bit nose-high.

 

[JoeL4330]

As was said, you need to raise the TPH to a suitable height (and limit stop the lever so it won't go down further accidentally)
However, you do not want the rotary cutter to be nose-high ...it is designed to be tail-high to clear the cuttings ...so, don't let anyone behind you ...and sometimes there is a flexible guard at the rear--dangling chains links (which can be added, after-market.

If your cutter came with a manual, this is probably discussed in the manual ...if not, you might see about getting one for it. Although many manuals are written in approximations to English, there is lots of good information in them.

 

[284 International]

However, you do not want the rotary cutter to be nose-high ...it is designed to be tail-high...

I run mine nose-down, for the record. But my feedback to get the front of the skids off the ground (Which I'm only assuming is the problem, to be accurate) isn't necessarily contraindicated, even if that meant it ends up nose high. The manual from Brush Hog for my 5 foot cutter suggests that running the cutter nose high gives a more even cut with finer trimmings, while nose down provides an easier load on the tractor for improved fuel efficiency. (Page 4-12 at: http://www.bushhog.com/uploads/documents/BHRotaryCutterRD5-6OM-12.pdf)

The suggestion about keeping people (or animals, vehicles, or anything else you care about) well away from the cutting area is EXTREMELY good advice. The dangling chains help.